Switching to Slide Film...

[DNG]

OK, So all film has domes day predictions.
And all film has it's quarks... (Slide has smaller exposure tolerances)
But, I live in the now, and E-6 has a ways to go before it follows in Kodachrome's footsteps.

Moving Forward.....
When metering with a semi-spot meter.... meter for the higher value mid-tones to avoid overexposure?

Thinking about how I use my DSLR, I tend to expose a little to the left of the Histogram wall on the right. To much more to the right, will clip highlights. Slide Film should expose the same... just a tad under (1/4 stop or so). Is this correct thinking

 

[35mmdelux]

slides dont allow the exposure latitude of neg film and will hone your skills.

 

[DNG]

slides don't allow the exposure latitude of neg film and will hone your skills.

Agreed

But, I tend to expose neg's very close to proper exposure anyway...much easier to scan and do any post on them.

It's always good to know your films of choosing exposure quirks, and latitudes.

 

[ChrisN]

...

Moving Forward.....
When metering with a semi-spot meter.... meter for the higher value mid-tones to avoid overexposure?

Thinking about how I use my DSLR, I tend to expose a little to the left of the Histogram wall on the right. To much more to the right, will clip highlights. Slide Film should expose the same... just a tad under (1/4 stop or so). Is this correct thinking

I think this should be fairly successful. If I had my 1-degree spot meter available I'd use that to meter the highlights, then open up two stops from that reading.

And yes - avoiding the clipped highlights is exactly the same principle. In effect we've reversed the old principle of exposing for the shadows and developing for the highlights - with digital if we blow the highlights at the capture stage there's nothing there to recover. Similar with e6.

 

[Kristopher]

Not to mention the fact that many photo labs are doing away with their E-6 machines. As well, slide film has a limited tolerance for over exposure. You can over expose colour neg film as much as two stops and still get a decent image.

Of course if everyone is afraid of using it because few labs are processing it, well nobody will process it. Self-fulfilling prophecy.

Shoot slides if you like them, there will be a way to process them for a long time.

Plus, doing it at home, is really NOT that hard.

k

 

[Roger Hicks]

Incident light reading is a LOT easier than spot-metering highlights, and just as good (or better). Remember that an old name for incident light metering is 'the artificial highlight method'.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

+1 for incident... Perfect highlights.

Cheers,

Juan

 

[aad]

C41 with scans have come close to $8.00/36 exposures, so if I want to see results without scanning myself or getting bad prints, E6 is getting closer...

 

[DNG]

C41 with scans have come close to $8.00/36 exposures, so if I want to see results without scanning myself or getting bad prints, E6 is getting closer...

I scan my own negs, and I can scan slides in mounts with my PlusTek 7300 scanner. So, the cost is a few bucks more than having my C41 or BW negs done by a BlueMoon.. As long as I can find deals on E6 films... Good to go as far as shooting slides.

 

[DNG]

Incident light reading is a LOT easier than spot-metering highlights, and just as good (or better). Remember that an old name for incident light metering is 'the artificial highlight method'.

Cheers,

R.

+1 for incident... Perfect highlights.

Cheers,

Juan

Yeah.. No longer have a hand held with dome.....

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Hi DNG,

Under direct sun (best for slides) you don't need any metering...

Sensia's and Astia's common setting is 1/250, f/8 1/2 with warming filter. (f/11 without it...)

That's for nice open skin, good for scanning... If no skin, you can underexpose to saturate: half a stop, or one stop...

So, without filter, sunny 16 for open skin. For more saturated landscapes, a bit less light.

Cheers,

Juan

 

[DNG]

Hi DNG,

Under direct sun (best for slides) you don't need any metering...

Sensia's and Astia's common setting is 1/250, f/8 1/2 with warming filter. (f/11 without it...)

That's for nice open skin, good for scanning... If no skin, you can underexpose to saturate: half a stop, or one stop...

So, without filter, sunny 16 for open skin. For more saturated landscapes, a bit less light.

Cheers,

Juan

Very Useful... thanks