T-Max 400

[formal]

I had 2 rolls of T-Max 400 developed locally. One has a blue/purple tint and the other is neutral.

Why?

Regards,
David

 

[back alley]

the tint usually means it was not fixed or washed long enough.

 

[formal]

Thanks Joe.

I assume that this is not a serious problem?

The bad news is that several films that they processed have the tint 😕

The good news is that none of the ones that I processed have it 😀

David

 

[lonelyboy]

just refix the film in fresh fixer and rewash until the magenta tint is gone.

 

[vicmortelmans]

what a coincidence, I was about to ask the same question! I've just developed a T-MAX 100 film in Rodinal (also using the AGFA fixer - what't it's name?) and was surprised of the blue-ish base. A while ago, I developed some AGFA APX-films and they always came out very clear.

What' the influence of developer and fixer type on the film base?

I just read something about a anti-halo-something layer on T-MAX film that would come off using Rodinal. Is that the layer causing this cast? And why wouldn't it come off, since I used Rodinal?

Just in general, since I'm moving away from AGFA anyway, what film/developer combination would you suggest? Not for professional use, probably only a couple of films per month at most, and with the intention to scan from film, rather than print...

Groeten,

Vic

 

[formal]

Ilford Chemicals

Ilford Chemicals

Hi Vic,

Just in general, since I'm moving away from AGFA anyway, what film/developer combination would you suggest? Not for professional use, probably only a couple of films per month at most, and with the intention to scan from film, rather than print...

I have been using basic Ilford chemicals (ILFOLSOLS, IFOSTOP, ILFORD Rapid Fixer and ILFOTOL) with both T-Max 100 & 400 and get no tint. I scan my negatives and I'm pleased with the results.

I might experiment with something else the next time.

Regards,
David

 

[kaiyen]

What' the influence of developer and fixer type on the film base?

There really isn't one. Rodinal is the only developer I know of in particular that is especially good at stripping the antihalation layer and the sensitizing dyes out of films. But those can come out just as easily and effectively via regular water washes, too.

I just read something about a anti-halo-something layer on T-MAX film that would come off using Rodinal. Is that the layer causing this cast? And why wouldn't it come off, since I used Rodinal?

It's not the AH layer that causes the color cast in tmax films. It's actually sensitizing dyes. Totally separate.

Just in general, since I'm moving away from AGFA anyway, what film/developer combination would you suggest? [/quote[

First off, this is really impossible to answer without more information on what you're looking for. However, you could consider c41 film, since it's so easy to scan. Or, if you're like me and prefer silver-based film, give tmx or the delta films a try. They all scan quite well.

allan

 

[Fred]

A bit OT but 2 cents worth, I don't think Rodinal works well with T grain fim (TMAX or Delta). but its fine in large dilutions with traditional films like FP4 or HP5.

The tint to the base of the TMAX film should still be OK to print with, early stocks used to be a tad magenta but I tend to one shot the fixer with this film now and don't have the problem. As I say though, it still prints fine on Ilford MGIV paper.

 

[Bertram2]

A bit OT but 2 cents worth, I don't think Rodinal works well with T grain fim (TMAX or Delta). but its fine in large dilutions with traditional films like FP4 or HP5.
T.

Paterson FX39 is said to work well with the T-grain films, they say it was developed especially for that kind of technology. Worth a test if T-max is your thing ?

bertram

 

[kaiyen]

FX-39 is indeed a pretty good developer. Low grain for the sharpness and acutance. However, it has a pretty short shelf life - it lost activity for me after about a month. If you do use it, consider getting small bottles and decanting into them rather than keeping it in the retail bottle.

However...I'd go ahead and try D76 first. TMX is pretty low grain, which is why it scans quite well. However, that low grain results in low apparent sharpness, too - it's so low, it looks unsharp. I'd recommend trying 1+1 as a starting point. Go for 1+3 if you want more sharpness. See how you like that, then go from there.

allan

 

[CZeni]

I'm using Kodak's Tmax developer and Sprint Speedfixer...then hitting it with hypo clearing agent. No purple/pinks 🙂

One other thing I do with Tmax is presoak it about 90 seconds or so...the purple stuff rinses out pretty heavily at that time.

 

[ch1]

On a related topic - I just shot a roll of Kodak B&W print film in my Bessa R2S. Normally I shoot T-Max negative.

The fellow at the "drop off lab" assured me that since it was C-41 processing they could do my roll "in-house".

I had them develop negs with an "Index" sheet (i.e. current equivelent of a "contact sheet").

Most of the pics have a "greenish" hue.

Did I screw up or did they? These shots are down right UGLY!.

Note: When I give them T-Max they "have" to send it out to a "Lab".

Funny thing is they charged me the same $ to do 24 exp. "in house" as they charge me to have the "Lab" do 36 exp.!

Ultimate query is: Do you inow if I can I "recover" these "green" shots with PS?

 

[kaiyen]

Well...what is "print film" vs "negative" film? Negative film is print film. Do you mean one of the C41 variants?

The prints are greenish probably because they printed without adjusting for the film base color. Kodak c41 film generally has a orange-ish tint, like color c41. This allows for relatively neutral prints with machines already calibrated for color. Ilford XP2, in comparison, is a clear base, which works better in black and white enlargers.

However...some adjustments usually still have to be made. If they just printed them up without any changes, it's possible the prints will all have tints.

As always, it pays off to know as much as possible about the process.

allan

 

[ch1]

Well...what is "print film" vs "negative" film? Negative film is print film. Do you mean one of the C41 variants?

The prints are greenish probably because they printed without adjusting for the film base color. Kodak c41 film generally has a orange-ish tint, like color c41. This allows for relatively neutral prints with machines already calibrated for color. Ilford XP2, in comparison, is a clear base, which works better in black and white enlargers.

However...some adjustments usually still have to be made. If they just printed them up without any changes, it's possible the prints will all have tints.

As always, it pays off to know as much as possible about the process.

allan

Allan,

Thanks for your insights.

Here's what I "discovered" tonight (I'm sure the PS power players here will laugh at my novice discoveries but...).

After I scanned the negs - they came into PS as negs with a kind of orange hue. After rotating them I first desaturated these negs and they became positive B&W's with a bland "bluish" hue.

After first doing an auto contrast and some other adjustments I got them to a kind of "okay" B&W positive.

Then I fine-tuned the contrast and highlights and added in a sharpening or two.

Came out with some okay B&W images - although not nearly with the "depth" and "richness" I would have expected if I were starting with scanned T-Max negative B&W film. [So much for buying "cheapo" film bargains on eBay!!!]

Main lessons I learned were:

1) "Consumer" Kodak B&W print film is not nearly as good as T-MAX negative (i.e. film base itself was "flimsy" in comparison etc. not to mention "thin" emulsion? etc.)

2) My Nikon 5000 scanner is a great tool to get images digitized even if they are "marginal" in terms of over exposure.

3) PS is a spectacular tool to help recover even some of the "worst" pics imaginable.

When I first got the negs back today I was tempted to toss them after seeing the so-called lab Index thumbnails.

Glad I took the time to scan the negs and start "playing around" with PS.

Sorry if you "pros" already know all this - but if there is one lesson I really learned - I've got to take a PS course. It is amazing what it can do to "recover" seemingly lost shots! 😎

Oh, one last thing , that "lab" printed out the index on AGFA paper - I doubt that helped!

 

[ch1]

Allan,

I always screw up these photo uploads here - but this is the film I am talking about.

Hope this pic come through.

Like I said - I bought 20 rolls of 24 exp. so want to make the "best" of them.

I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks,
George

 

[vicmortelmans]

There really isn't one. Rodinal is the only developer I know of in particular that is especially good at stripping the antihalation layer and the sensitizing dyes out of films. But those can come out just as easily and effectively via regular water washes, too.

As some other people suggested, I re-fixed the film in a fresh solution and it came out clear! For the AGFA films I didn't really bother about fixer freshness, but for the T-Max, one should!

First off, this is really impossible to answer without more information on what you're looking for. However, you could consider c41 film, since it's so easy to scan. Or, if you're like me and prefer silver-based film, give tmx or the delta films a try. They all scan quite well.

As my local shop will probably replace his current AGFA-films by Ilford products, I'm stronly considering to use that. A practical choice will probably be to use their chemistry as well...

Groeten,


Vic

 

[kaiyen]

George,
The image you attached is what I was thinking - it's one of Kodak's c41 b&w print films.

One thing I found intriguign in your followup post is that you said there was a bluish tint in PS after you desaturated. This is technically impossible. If you have desaturated to grayscale, by definition, there is no color left.

Was the bluish tint from a print you made at home, or on your screen? If it's in a print, then it's because you are using color inks to print B&W. I can talk for like an hour on how to solve that 🙂. If it's on your screen, then you need to look into calibrating your screen.

regardless, I"m glad you got results with which you are happy.
allan

 

[kaiyen]

As some other people suggested, I re-fixed the film in a fresh solution and it came out clear! For the AGFA films I didn't really bother about fixer freshness, but for the T-Max, one should!

I actually asked a question on PN a while ago about why fixer exhausts more quickly with tmax films than either older emulsions. Since it's sensitizing dyes, why would it use up fixer faster? Fixer exhaustion is purely a result of silver saturation. The response (here's the link) was interesting.

But yes, fresh fixer and tmax films is a good idea. Some people keep an entirely different set of fixer just for them. I personally use a 2 bath fix stage, so that solves that.

As my local shop will probably replace his current AGFA-films by Ilford products, I'm stronly considering to use that. A practical choice will probably be to use their chemistry as well...

Ilfiord does indeed make some good chemistry (Perceptol and Microphen are favorites of mine, though DDX gets many rave reviews, too). However, don't lock yourself into them just because you may switch to Ilford film stock. Kodak's XTOL is actually the most "modern" commercial developer, after all, and there are lots of other deverlopers from photo formulary and j&c that are interesting, as well.

allan

 

[ch1]

George,
The image you attached is what I was thinking - it's one of Kodak's c41 b&w print films.

One thing I found intriguign in your followup post is that you said there was a bluish tint in PS after you desaturated. This is technically impossible. If you have desaturated to grayscale, by definition, there is no color left.

Was the bluish tint from a print you made at home, or on your screen? If it's in a print, then it's because you are using color inks to print B&W. I can talk for like an hour on how to solve that 🙂. If it's on your screen, then you need to look into calibrating your screen.

regardless, I"m glad you got results with which you are happy.
allan

Allan,

Well after a couple of glasses of wine a lot of things looked bluish. 😀

I'm not at the home computer right now to try to "re-create" but I think what I was really seeing was just some rather low contrast grayscale.

After turning the image "positive" I did a fair amount of contrast/highlighting plus sharpening to get a passable pic. I wouldn't have bothered except I liked the shot.

The better news is that although the index sheet that the lab printed out has a greenish tint to the images - the negs themselves were okay. If nothing else, I sure won't use these guys to make any prints!

Thanks for your help. I've got 19 more rolls of this film so I'm glad I can make some decent (if not great) pics with it!

Regards,
George