teleparallel
Established
So...
I noticed that sometimes the frames of my negatives came overlapped, and couldn't fix it. I actually found out that the release pin that lets rewind the film when it is finished remains semi pressed when the trigger is mounted, causing the sprocket gear to slip one sprocket sometimes, and causing the overlap.
Anyone with this problem? Any known fix?
Thanks!
I noticed that sometimes the frames of my negatives came overlapped, and couldn't fix it. I actually found out that the release pin that lets rewind the film when it is finished remains semi pressed when the trigger is mounted, causing the sprocket gear to slip one sprocket sometimes, and causing the overlap.
Anyone with this problem? Any known fix?
Thanks!
teleparallel
Established
Anyone? Not even suggestions?
rbsinto
Well-known
Reminds me of an old Henny Youngman joke.
Patient says as he shakes his hand in the air,"Doctor, Doctor! It hurts when I go like this."
Doctor says, "Don't go like this."
If the problem occurs when you have the trigger winder mounted, dismount the trigger winder.
Patient says as he shakes his hand in the air,"Doctor, Doctor! It hurts when I go like this."
Doctor says, "Don't go like this."
If the problem occurs when you have the trigger winder mounted, dismount the trigger winder.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Yes, I've had the problem, and no, as far as I can see, there's no solution to it. Winding to the very end of the trigger movement, and not pressing the release too early, seems to avoid it -- but note only 'seems' because it's an intermittent, minor (<1mm overlap) problem and I've not tested it exhaustively.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
teleparallel
Established
Actually I've solved it.
I used a "metal sandpaper"(I'm not sure how it is called in English, so correct if I'm wrong, but it's a paper that can remove superficial layers of metal to make It smooth or round borders, like a nail file for metal, maybe "steal file") to reduce the pin presser height on the upper side of the T-Winder. I tested with a burnt roll, marking each 8 sprockets to see if they loose the original alignment to any reference point on the camera, and it seems to work fine now. But one needs to be careful not to reduce it to much, otherwise the pin on the T-winder may not be long enough to release the film on camera, and every time you end a roll one would need to remove the T-winder before changing the roll. If it happen tough, I think you can add metal paint layers to correct, witch is actually advisable since to protect the T-winder's pin from getting rust on the top.
Well, I hope I help.
Or at least been clear.
I used a "metal sandpaper"(I'm not sure how it is called in English, so correct if I'm wrong, but it's a paper that can remove superficial layers of metal to make It smooth or round borders, like a nail file for metal, maybe "steal file") to reduce the pin presser height on the upper side of the T-Winder. I tested with a burnt roll, marking each 8 sprockets to see if they loose the original alignment to any reference point on the camera, and it seems to work fine now. But one needs to be careful not to reduce it to much, otherwise the pin on the T-winder may not be long enough to release the film on camera, and every time you end a roll one would need to remove the T-winder before changing the roll. If it happen tough, I think you can add metal paint layers to correct, witch is actually advisable since to protect the T-winder's pin from getting rust on the top.
Well, I hope I help.
Or at least been clear.
teleparallel
Established
I like the trigger a lot. For my hand the camera acquires perfect size with it on, and it also adds a grip. Plus, of course, it's fun to use it.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Thanks!
Cheers,
Roger
Cheers,
Roger