tale of woe: steel reels!

I've used Hewes SS reels for years - nary a problem. They are the best of the best. I have tried some of the cheapy SS reels while teaching a class - and they just plain sucked - mainly because they were beat up and a little out of shape (dropping SS reels on a hard floor is never a good thing)...

I always tell those who want to switch to SS to burn an old roll of film and practice loading in daylight -- by the end of an hour you'll be a pro.
 
I must have well over a dozen 35mm reels from Kinderman, Acura, Nikor, Omega, Spiratone, etc. The oldest Kindermans have a different type of center clip than the newer (1970?) Kindermans, most bought used, and every one has been dropped on the concrete floor in my darkroom way more than once. I can recognize most of them by feel as I load them, which ones still load no trouble and which ones have a "tight" spot needing a bit of finessing.

Whenever I got a new tank I always labled the tank, top, and cap with Dymo tape, both with numbers and matching color so after they've dried I get them back together as sets. The old Nikor tanks came with matching tops and caps and were about as leak proof as you'd want.

I guess that if I was just starting out today though I'd give the Hewes a try.
 
The tanks require about 250ml per 35mm reel. Actually the 2 and 4 reel tanks require just a bit less because they all have the same amount of "slop room" above the reels. Always use enough reels to fill the tank so they don't go sliding up and down inside and always use enough developer to fill the tank even if all the reels aren't loaded with film. Otherwise you'll overagitate.
 
When I started, I picked up a Kalt stainless tank and a couple stainless wire reels from my local Calumet - absolute GARBAGE!! Am lucky that I ruined most of my first roll and had such a bad experience, as this led to....

Hewes Stainless Reels - the BEST. In a changing bag, they are fast to load, easy, reliable. Never a problem. Forget a silly clip in the center, the "two post" design in the Hewes is great, and easy to get started by feel.
 
Al Kaplan said:
The tanks require about 250ml per 35mm reel. Actually the 2 and 4 reel tanks require just a bit less because they all have the same amount of "slop room" above the reels. Always use enough reels to fill the tank so they don't go sliding up and down inside and always use enough developer to fill the tank even if all the reels aren't loaded with film. Otherwise you'll overagitate.
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Thats good advice with respect to the amount of chemistry. I almost always develop two rolls of 135 at time...
 
I think it has more to do with what you learn to use, and how you are taught to do it than which material the reels you use are made of. If what you are using works well for you, why switch? Why listen to those who are telling you something else is better if you don't have a problem?

I first learned on SS reels, and grew up loading them. I never used plastic reels until a few years ago, and then it was only for sheet film. At first, loading each kind seems tricky, but you learn it and it becomes second nature. I still use steel, and won't switch, but I will cast my vote in with those who recommend the Hewes or Jobo steel reels (which are, as it has been pointed out, identical, since the Jobo reels are made by Hewes). Not only are the hooks which grab the sprocket holes and keep the film aligned really nice to have, but the reels are made of heavier gauge wire and hold their alignment better. After using these for more than ten years, I won't use any other kind

I do have plenty of the cheap flimsy steel reels- anyone want them for the cost of shipping?
 
What Al and Keith said pretty well summarize my technique. I hold the film pinched into a fairly pronounced curve from side to side. I rotate the reel maybe 1/4 turn, and listen. The film, going on properly, should make a slight sound as it goes: something like shhh-shhh. If that changes to snap/crackle/pop then it has crinkled, and the last inch or two should be unwound and redone. It probably means the film wasn't curved enough as it was fed in. After each 1/4 turn I jiggle the film toward and away from the reel. It should feel free in the coil. If it doesn't, it is jammed, crossed over one of the coil guides. Unwind and re-do that part.

Pinch, turn, listen for shhh-shhh, jiggle-jiggle, turn, listen, jiggle-jiggle.

Some films load easily, others play tricks like curling the wrong way, fighting you as you go. Some films load better from the leader end than from the tail end. Some are very thin, and more challenging. Neopan 400 is like that. But with practice they can all be loaded successfully!
 
I never get the bit about not using enough chemistry. Pour it into the top of the tank until the tank is full - there. You have enough in there to fully cover the film. The stuff is not so expensive that you will save a lot by making up 473 mL instead of 500!
 
I wasn't a question of saving chemistry at all. For me it happened like this: I was developing a single reel, so I made up 375ml of chemistry (the amount required for a single reel in my plastic tank). I poured chemistry in until it came out the top of the container. With the plastic container that means its full. With the steel, apparently not! You have to wait for the chemistry to drain in, and then add more. Quite a bit more! Couple that with not measuring how much the steel container held beforehand, and you get a predicable result.
 
I was very pleased to learn that steel tanks require less chemistry. I have a small tank that allows for 1 roll of 135 to be processed, and it takes 250mL of solution. I like stand development with Rodinal because I can use it at a 1:100 or 1:200 dilution--a bottle will last a long time when you require less than 2.5mL of the stuff!
 
Chris: I'm not sure how your tanks compare, but my ss tank uses about 250cc for each 35mm roll, where as my Arista Premium tank uses 375cc per roll. That's considerably more, don't you think?

dfoo: It helps to tilt the ss tank slightly as you pour, otherwise the air doesn't seem to escape fast enough for the rate that the liquid is going in.
 
I'm assuming you meant 500ml? Are you referring to one roll of film? If so, does Rodinal require more than other developers? I'm just asking because I've never used it. But when it comes to D-76 or Tmax developers, I can use 250cc(ml) per roll with no problems.

dfoo said:
The document that came with my bottle of rodinal said to use a minimum of 5ml.
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One important tip for loading stainless reels. Your hands must be clean and very dry. If your hands are damp the film will not slide thru your fingers smoothly. Practice helps and if your doing utility work you can load two rolls, back to back, on one reel. Just be sure to unload and separate them for washing. I did much of my college yearbook work that way when I had too many rolls to process. Good Luck and be patient. Joe
 
Livesteamer said:
One important tip for loading stainless reels. Your hands must be clean and very dry. If your hands are damp the film will not slide thru your fingers smoothly. Practice helps and if your doing utility work you can load two rolls, back to back, on one reel. Just be sure to unload and separate them for washing. I did much of my college yearbook work that way when I had too many rolls to process. Good Luck and be patient. Joe
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Actually that's a good point and my disaster with steel reels happened on a day when it was stinking hot, mid thirties celcius and high humidity. It's a bit hard to keep your hands dry in those conditions unless you're in air con!

The humidity has little effect on your balls though ... I mean the little balls in the paterson reels that grip the film and let it travel in one direction only! 😀
 
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