Fotohuis
Well-known
Q.C. for FP films are in the mean time pretty good. I am using a 1,5% Citric Acid stop since 1998 and never had any issues.


The Polyester layer was changed for all Fomapan 120 roll films from material used at Agfa Gevaert. Clear Polyester layer with an extra A.H. layer. Also the backing paper is more smoothly now to prevent any stress on the film surface. They are also using a self adhesive sticker now which is working very well now. All productions up from 2014 should be in this way.
If you can live with the slower speed of FP 400 (iso 200-250) you can have good results. I prefer the FP200 due to the fact it is a sharper film (you just mentioned it above ). This is because FP200 has a mixture of classical cubical Silver crystals and hexagonal Silver crystals. It was an attempt for Foma to create a type of Tgrain emulsion.
This is how it looks under the (e-) microscope and here is an example with the C.V. Bessa III 667.
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FP200 E.I. 125 in R09/Rodinal 1+50.
This picture is looking innocent but it has been made in Ukraine over a year ago.
In the mean time it is war overthere and I am thinking to evacuate my daughter.
I'm new to this stuff, did my own development yesterday for the first time 🙂 among the two rolls there was Fomapan 400 and I did it in Rodinal/R09 - why is FP400 unsuitable for Rodinal?Indeed the tonality of FP 400 is very good and can be easy done but the film is unsuitable for a R09/Rodinal development.

Foma 200 Creative in 35 works well with the Beutler compensating developer - amazingly sharp and no blown highlights. It seems - no formal test - an accurate ISO of 200. The 400 Action does not - it seems slow, grainy, and altogether a 1940s film. Arista Premium/Kodak Tri-X suit me better. The Foma 200 is another beast entirely - a wonderfully sharp film in the right developer.