Tell me why I want an X-E1

When you get it, set up the Shadow and Highlight sensitivity settings to at least -1. There is an article somewhere where the guy tests these settings. You can get a lot out of this camera, with legacy lenses.
 
When you get it, set up the Shadow and Highlight sensitivity settings to at least -1. There is an article somewhere where the guy tests these settings. You can get a lot out of this camera, with legacy lenses.

Is this XE specific or X-Trans in general?
 
When you get it, set up the Shadow and Highlight sensitivity settings to at least -1. There is an article somewhere where the guy tests these settings. You can get a lot out of this camera, with legacy lenses.

I'm curious about the reasoning behind this. I haven't done much in terms of adjustments, but I found I was happier with both those settings at +1 than the default.

If you can find a link to the article I'd like to have a look at it.
 
Opened it up for X-Mas. Shot a few M lenses around the house, quite high ISO, nice grain. Finding more issues shooting still than focusing as it is even lighter than the X100 I find. Very happy.

Have not played with any settings, yet.

Nice to have a small digital back-up camera to almost any system. So far so good. (Saved a lot of money on MM).

Not sure if I should get one native X-mount lenses and sell the X100, probably not.
 
One nifty little "hack" for the XE-1 is to make a very handy and useful Flash difuser out of an old Fuji Film Canister.
I just trimmed the lid of the canister with a pair of scissors, slip it over the pop up flash, and then snap the canister on.
You can "shim" the flash with a folded q-tip to hold it in the upright bounce position within the canister.
It's actually quite effective for portrait range softening of the flash :D

Pardon the iPhone snap if you would.
15911819787_68216d284f_c.jpg
 
One nifty little "hack" for the XE-1 is to make a very handy and useful Flash difuser out of an old Fuji Film Canister.
I just trimmed the lid of the canister with a pair of scissors, slip it over the pop up flash, and then snap the canister on.
You can "shim" the flash with a folded q-tip to hold it in the upright bounce position within the canister.
It's actually quite effective for portrait range softening of the flash :D

Pardon the iPhone snap if you would.
15911819787_68216d284f_c.jpg

Nice DIY. I like it. Thanks for sharing..

Gary
 
Thanks for the link. I can see better what the settings do from the examples. That said, I found the monochrome images the camera produces to be pretty low contrast out of the box; bumping the settings into positive territory helped add a bit more punch. I seem to be shooting at least as much in B&W as I do in color with this camera. I am not nearly as bothered by a bit of detail loss in the shadows as the author of that article seems to be.


 
Thanks for the link. I can see better what the settings do from the examples. That said, I found the monochrome images the camera produces to be pretty low contrast out of the box; bumping the settings into positive territory helped add a bit more punch. I seem to be shooting at least as much in B&W as I do in color with this camera. I am not nearly as bothered by a bit of detail loss in the shadows as the author of that article seems to be.

In my view currently people are placing too much emphasis on selectively lifting shadows. I say this because I am a prime example of someone who lifted shadows all the time just because I could.

Then I realized shadows can add drama and substance to many subjects. Creative use of shadows when composing a scene is an important tool. Shadows can be good.

When the analog dynamic range of the sensor is challenged, shadow region IQ is valuable. My commercial work (interiors) happens to benefit from the ability to selectively lift shadow regions as dynamic range is always a problem. Adding more light can be inconvenient (time consuming and. or restricting compositional flexibility). It's nice to know the detail is there when that detail is relevant.
 
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