shawn
Veteran
A few from my test roll in the Tenax II with the Sonnar. I need to open up the lens and clean it as it is a little hazy and looks like it has a touch of fungus in one spot on an element.
Tmax 100 in HC110 1:125 stand developed for 60 minutes and scanned in a Pakon.
No hood, shooting into the sun, predictable results.
Hiding behind a tree for shade...
Shawn
Tmax 100 in HC110 1:125 stand developed for 60 minutes and scanned in a Pakon.
No hood, shooting into the sun, predictable results.
Hiding behind a tree for shade...
Shawn
Crazy Fedya
Well-known
Shawn,
This lens will definitely benefit from cleaning. 99% of pre war lenses will. I really like these images, and square format in general. It looks like your camera functions properly.
I own Tenax II with 40/2.8 Tessar. It is one of my all-time favourite cameras. It is very easy to use.Good luck with it!
Here is one of images taken with 4cm/2.8 Tessar equipped Tenax II before lens was cleaned. After cleaning the lens produces higher contrast and less flare. This image is much sharper before compression.
This lens will definitely benefit from cleaning. 99% of pre war lenses will. I really like these images, and square format in general. It looks like your camera functions properly.
I own Tenax II with 40/2.8 Tessar. It is one of my all-time favourite cameras. It is very easy to use.Good luck with it!
Here is one of images taken with 4cm/2.8 Tessar equipped Tenax II before lens was cleaned. After cleaning the lens produces higher contrast and less flare. This image is much sharper before compression.
shawn
Veteran
Thanks, I have to get used to square. I've only shot it a bit in 6x6. I went to switch to portrait orientation this morning before laughing at myself.
I was able to get the front element out and it is a little cleaner but still has some haze. I might need to use something a little strong then lens cleaning fluid. Any suggestions? Not sure how to get the second element or rear element out yet.
I was also able to figure out the settings so that the Pakon is now framing/cropping the film automatically. I did it by hand earlier and it was a pain.
A couple of more shots from that roll.. a little more PP on these.
I pushed the contrast a bit on this one. Don't know if it is the lens haze or the Sonnar glow but I like it. Not bad for an 80 year old camera!
Need to try these again when there aren't cars parked there.
Shawn
I was able to get the front element out and it is a little cleaner but still has some haze. I might need to use something a little strong then lens cleaning fluid. Any suggestions? Not sure how to get the second element or rear element out yet.
I was also able to figure out the settings so that the Pakon is now framing/cropping the film automatically. I did it by hand earlier and it was a pain.
A couple of more shots from that roll.. a little more PP on these.
I pushed the contrast a bit on this one. Don't know if it is the lens haze or the Sonnar glow but I like it. Not bad for an 80 year old camera!
Need to try these again when there aren't cars parked there.
Shawn
farlymac
PF McFarland
A 50/50 mix of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide is a good cleaner. And for stubborn fungus, some Ponds Cold Cream left on overnight. Yeah yeah, laugh all you want, but even nose oil will remove fungus (it's highly anti-biotic in nature).
PF
PF
wes loder
Photographer/Historian
flare and Tenax II
flare and Tenax II
I seemed to get a lot of flare from my 7.5cm Sonnar for the Tenax II. But re-scanning with a decent scanner reduced the flare in pictures considerably. I now have a UV filter on front. Will see if that helps. My normal 4cm Sonnar is coated, so flare is not much of a problem.
WES
flare and Tenax II
I seemed to get a lot of flare from my 7.5cm Sonnar for the Tenax II. But re-scanning with a decent scanner reduced the flare in pictures considerably. I now have a UV filter on front. Will see if that helps. My normal 4cm Sonnar is coated, so flare is not much of a problem.
WES
oftheherd
Veteran
Who knew? ?