Test shutter speed?

The photoplug is very good for leaf shutters (I have one) but typically the problem with focal plane shutters on older cameras is evenness across the frame. For a FP shutter you need at least two measurements in the same pass.

Just put a film in, use a known good meter, and if the frame is correctly exposed and even don’t worry about the shutter.

Shutter testers can be a path to unjustified disillusionment (I have three). The acceptable tolerances are actually quite wide.
 
I understand, but you can do 2 measurements in 2 different places of the focal plane, you should have an average shutter time, right?
I tried it on my rangefinders too (m3-m2-m4-mp) and the two cameras just CLA'd were ok (like 1/230 instead 1/250 for example), but the mp and m3 were very out of range (I didn't save the measurements but it was like 1/170 intead 1/250)
 
luuca said:
I understand, but you can do 2 measurements in 2 different places of the focal plane, you should have an average shutter time, right?
I tried it on my rangefinders too (m3-m2-m4-mp) and the two cameras just CLA'd were ok (like 1/230 instead 1/250 for example), but the mp and m3 were very out of range (I didn't save the measurements but it was like 1/170 intead 1/250)
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Yes it’s definitely an option and I’ve done it that way myself but on older cameras shot-to-shot variation is also something that can occur. Also sensor width plays a part and can make a shutter seem slower than it is when testing faster speeds. It’s really great for leaf shutters though.

I mostly use a Reveni Labs camera tester now but it’s a bit of an overkill for occasional use. I also have one of these and it’s not bad:

 
raduray said:
I’ve got a Canon 7 coming from Japan. Is there a way to test the shutter speeds?
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I use a Phochron XA but they are no longer available.

In the absence of any equipment find a scene with consistent lighting. Shoot a number of exposures at the equivalent exposure over a range of shutter speeds. When you develop the negatives they should all be the same exposure. If they aren't your shutter speed isn't consistent.

Ex: F16 1/30, F11 1/60. F8 1/125. F5.6 1/250, F4, 1/500, F2.8 1/1000

Then if something like the last shot is overexposed compared to the rest it tells you 1/1000 is running slow.
 
shawn said:
I use a Phochron XA but they are no longer available.

In the absence of any equipment find a scene with consistent lighting. Shoot a number of exposures at the equivalent exposure over a range of shutter speeds. When you develop the negatives they should all be the same exposure. If they aren't your shutter speed isn't consistent.

Ex: F16 1/30, F11 1/60. F8 1/125. F5.6 1/250, F4, 1/500, F2.8 1/1000

Then if something like the last shot is overexposed compared to the rest it tells you 1/1000 is running slow.
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Yeah, shooting multiple aperture/speed combos for the same exposure was my first thought, but I was wondering if there was a way to measure the shutter speed directly.
 
For slower speeds you could probably get away with using the slow motion video recording on an iPhone (or something else with a high frame rate) and record the shutter firing with a running stop watch in the frame too. When you are evaluating the shutter mark off somewhere that is the start/stop position for timing. That would likely work up to around 1/125 or so.

Higher than that would need higher frame rates to capture the shutter curtains.
 
shawn said:
For slower speeds you could probably get away with using the slow motion video recording on an iPhone (or something else with a high frame rate) and record the shutter firing with a running stop watch in the frame too. When you are evaluating the shutter mark off somewhere that is the start/stop position for timing. That would likely work up to around 1/125 or so.

Higher than that would need higher frame rates to capture the shutter curtains.
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The higher end Samsungs (and maybe some others, but not iPhones I think) have a 960 fps burst mode . However it must be remembered that curtain speed is not a constant so gap width will increase as curtains accelerate. This will, as stated, be less of an issue at slower speeds.
 
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I used to use a CRT with a switchable refresh rate, set it to 60hz, stick the camera on a tripod aimed squarely at the screen displaying a solid bright color, then fire my shutter and watch the line it draws diagonally across the frame. If there is variability in the line the shutter draws at speeds above 1/60 second, then the shutter blinds are not moving at the same rate or slowing/speeding.
Phil
 
My method does not test shutter speeds but at least lets me learn a lot about the shutter. I pick a scene, set the f/stop for a mid range and shoot at every shutter speed. I can then examine the film strip and see if it goes from light to dark, incrementally. Looking at the "correct" metered image in the group finishes the overview for my purposes. I collect and shoot a lot of cameras just for fun at that is good enough for me.
 
I haven't done any testing with a shutter tester. I just make a set of matched exposures at all shutter speed/aperture pairs across the range .. when I think there's a problem. I set the lighting so I can capture the shortest exposure time, and ND filters to get the whole range down to the longest. Then I process that roll of film and check to see that the density looks about equal and where it varies. Problems and unevenness across the field of view become immediately apparent with no guesswork.

... This even works with a Leica Barnak camera, where you cannot see through the shutter and lens... 😉

G
 
You can do a pretty accurate check. All you need is a digital camera.

Place the two cameras facing each other like the picture below. Open the back of the film camera, place a mobile phone showing a blank white screen and put brightness to the highest.

20250628_183822.jpg

Now, set the digital camera to the shutter speed you want to test (i.e 1/60) set aperture to a random value (i.e. f2.8) and the film camera to "B". Press the shutter on the film camera to remain open and press the shutter button on the digital camera. This is the control picture, we know that the exposure is correct in this one.

Now set the digital camera to 4 sec and the film camera to the test speed (i.e. 1/60). Press the shutter on the digital camera and then the shutter on the film camera. This is the test picture.

Now compare the control picture to the test picture. If the test picture is brighter than the control picture, then your shutter runs slow. If it is darker than the film shutter runs faster than it should. If the test picture is darker on one side than the other, the shutters don't travel at the same speed.
 
p.giannakis said:
You can do a pretty accurate check. All you need is a digital camera.

Place the two cameras facing each other like the picture below. Open the back of the film camera, place a mobile phone showing a blank white screen and put brightness to the highest.

View attachment 4870754

Now, set the digital camera to the shutter speed you want to test (i.e 1/60) set aperture to a random value (i.e. f2.8) and the film camera to "B". Press the shutter on the film camera to remain open and press the shutter button on the digital camera. This is the control picture, we know that the exposure is correct in this one.

Now set the digital camera to 4 sec and the film camera to the test speed (i.e. 1/60). Press the shutter on the digital camera and then the shutter on the film camera. This is the test picture.

Now compare the control picture to the test picture. If the test picture is brighter than the control picture, then your shutter runs slow. If it is darker than the film shutter runs faster than it should. If the test picture is darker on one side than the other, the shutters don't travel at the same speed.
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I had to read this twice before I got it. very ingenuous.
 
Is there a way to test the shutter speeds?
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Sometimes you can spot uneven exposure or capping at high speeds (1/500, 1/1000) by looking through the shutter at an even lit background. The method with the digital camera works quite well too. If you focus on the shutter plane, and reduce the brightness of the photo taken you can spot uneven exposure more easily.

I use an Arduino with a laser and photo transistor setup, designed by a fellow Dutchman to test my shutters. The next upgrade is to build one with two measuring points that can also measure the acceleration of both curtains.
 
I just tried it on my SR-T 201 black body and it shows the shutter is maybe a tad fast at 1/60th.

Thanks for the methodology @p.giannakis .
This is going to be an exercise for me on another day. So far the hard part is getting a white screen on my iPhone but I figured a slightly grey screen shot of my monitor will do just as well.DSC09212 (Large).JPGDSC09210 (Large).JPG
 
@AlwaysOnAuto keep in mind that you need to calculate an initial exposure that is more or less accurate. If you grossly over/underexpose then both pictures will be over/under-exposed to the point that they will appear identical.
The two pics you posted are too close to bother with adjusting the tension. Personally i would leave it as is.
 
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