helvetica
Well-known
I was always curious what the official name was. As I recall the MR-2 was just a button and the MR-3 had a cable release thread, right?
rbsinto
Well-known
Mine is the MR-2 and it has a threaded collar around the button.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
All I know is that the MR-2 and MR-3 look evil on a camera. I need to get one so I can use a cable release on my F3P. Anyways this is a good reason to get one. LOL.
Last night I bought a used AH-4 Handstrap that was boxed from B&H. I expect my MF-18 that is in LN cond from KEH Friday.
Evil glass: AF-D 28/1.4; 58/1.2 Noct-Nikkor AIS; black 45/2.8 P AIS; Leica 50 Lux "E60" with almost auto aperture adapter; and Olympus 24/3.5 shift lens.
It does not get more evil than this.
Cal
Last night I bought a used AH-4 Handstrap that was boxed from B&H. I expect my MF-18 that is in LN cond from KEH Friday.
Evil glass: AF-D 28/1.4; 58/1.2 Noct-Nikkor AIS; black 45/2.8 P AIS; Leica 50 Lux "E60" with almost auto aperture adapter; and Olympus 24/3.5 shift lens.
It does not get more evil than this.
Cal
rbsinto
Well-known
Evil or not, mine sits in a plastic soap bar container in my bag until it is needed. and really except for the cable release, it isn't difficult to hold a motor-driven camera vertically and fire the shutter without one.
I never understood tricking out cameras with extra bits of dreck (soft sutter releases/firing rate converters/data backs/tripod socket hole repositioners and the like) so they look heftier and different from the other guys.
As for the hand straps. I've always made my own. The baseplates are a little more difficult and three of the four I have were made for me by machine shops, the exception being the one for my FA which I fabricated from extruded aluminum at a company I used to work for.
Robert
ABrosig
Well-known
There should be no issues with shorting out the contacts on the motor drive to test it. If it is functioning, the drive should advance. If it's not, it won't. Likewise, putting the motor drive on the camera to test it will only waste one frame. Either it works or it doesn't. One frame of film is cheap to determine functionality.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Robert,
To get an AH-4 to work on a F3P with MD-4 I had to modify a AH-2 baseplate.
The date between frames kinda makes your camera more like a visual journal, and there are added ergonomics from the ridge that add to the grip. This feature is really useful if you shoot a lot and sometimes process film say once a month and you have 150 rolls to develop.
Understand that I believe a heavy camera is a steady camera, and that sniper rifles are heavy for a reason. I shorted the switch on my F3P so the light illuminates my LCD anytime my meter is activated, and I shoot a lot at night with a Noct-Nikkor and AF-D 28/1.4. Basically my F3P is optimized for night shooting and is rigged extra heavy for good reason.
Cal
farlymac
PF McFarland
MR-2 has the threaded collar, and the MR-3 adds a threaded button, in case you don't have a collared cable release.
PF
PF