Testing, testing: Color in B&W chemicals.

[titrisol]

That is a legend..... Xprocessing E6 in C41 does not leave a mess!
The only difference is th elack of bleach in the C41 when compared to E6.

It should work with trasnparency film as well, bracket like hell first though 😉

Yeah, tres cool! I didn't know this could be done -- does it work with transparencies as well? I may as well find out.

I have a friend working at a minilab, she's going to x-process e6 film in c41 before changing out the chemicals (apparently it leaves behind a mess) this week 🙂

Jano

 

[ZorkiKat]

I did it again because I was curious as to how some color film would play with Diafine. Not reusing that bit of Diafine. This time the film was Fujicolor True Definition shot at ISO 800 or thereabouts...it's an ISO400 film.

http://www.glasswings.org/words/?p=96

Comments would be appreciated. I intend to do this with Rodinal, too, and perhaps try some Fuji Super HQ 200 next time. 🙂

Stephanie

Do you know that it's still possible to RESTORE THE COLOURS in your BW-developer processed colour negative film? There's a trick which we used to do when a colour neg film "accidentally" got souped in BW brews.

The colour couplers remain in the emulsion even after BW developing and fixing. The trick is to rehalogenise the negative first and reprocess it in C41 chemistry.

To rehalogenise the negative, use a bromide/ferricyanide bleach. The bleach used in a two-bath sepia toner may be used. Or else make up a 10%potassium ferricyanide + 10% potassium bromide solution. Bleach the negative until the black image becomes milky grey (silver bromide) again. This should take about 10 minutes.

Then wash the film thoroughly. 10 minutes in running water should be OK. It is important that the ferricyanide bleach is totally removed from the emulsion.

If you have C41 chemistry, process the film as if it had been an unprocessed film.
Or you could send it to a one hour lab for processing. BUT - if the film had already been cut to strips, it might not be possible to feed these strips back into the film processor.

Souping colour negatives in speed-increasing BW developers will do -to a limited degree- what these developers do with BW film. There is some speed gain, but sometimes there is an associated increase in fog. Fog in these instance isn't grey as in BW films, but can be in form of what appears to be denser colour masking.

🙂

Jay

 

[ZorkiKat]

That is a legend..... Xprocessing E6 in C41 does not leave a mess!
The only difference is th elack of bleach in the C41 when compared to E6.

It should work with trasnparency film as well, bracket like hell first though 😉

I concur. There is nothing in "chrome" films which will harm C41 chemistry.

There IS a bleach step though in C41. It does the same job as the bleach found in E6 or any colour silver halid process- make developed silver soluble so all can be dissolved in the fixer, if the bleach itself doesn't do it .(as in "BLIX" or bleach-fix baths). With all the silver gone, only the dye image is left in the emulsion.

🙂
Jay

 

[Stephanie Brim]

That's what I thought.

I'm going to be shooting two films this week: some Velvia and some Pan-F. I'm going to give the Velvia to my sister to process in the minilab machine as regular color film. Shouldn't be a problem. Seriously, though...if I don't find someone to cross process my slide film soon I'm just going to break down and buy the stupid Arista C41 kit...or another press kit. It's getting rediculous.

 

[SergioGuerra]

Never done colour film before, but I usually develop XP2 at home with HC-110....

The results are pretty decent 🙂

Sergio

 

[ZorkiKat]

That's what I thought.

I'm going to be shooting two films this week: some Velvia and some Pan-F. I'm going to give the Velvia to my sister to process in the minilab machine as regular color film. Shouldn't be a problem. Seriously, though...if I don't find someone to cross process my slide film soon I'm just going to break down and buy the stupid Arista C41 kit...or another press kit. It's getting rediculous.

C41 isn't hard to do. Once you get fix the temperatures, it could even be easier than BW. No variables regarding developer, developing rates and contrast indeces. Just stick to a consistent time and temperature routine and you're all set.

BTW, temperatures and timing aren't that critical in colour processing. Watch the temps (should be within 0.5 Celsius) and timing only for the developer. For the other baths- bleach, fix, and other washes, temps and times can vary. You could be off by as much as 5 degrees C with the bleach or fix and expect nothing bad to happen with your film.

C41 produces negs- they don't have to be perfect since they're just intermediates. Any minor error is correctible in printing. Cross-processing on the other hand leaves a lot of room for surprises, so accuracy and fidelity are really alien concepts in this regard.

🙂

 

[Stephanie Brim]

This is where I wanted to use an aquarium heater. Maybe I can find one that goes high enough...hm.

 

[jan normandale]

I have the color scans up, too. Direct link to those.

I really like the 'colour' of this top shot. I've got to think about ways to use this.

 

[Stephanie Brim]

It's kind of nifty. Too bad that it wouldn't look the same printed on black and white paper.

 

[taffer]

Steph this is great !

You know I was asking about the same a while ago, as I have 30m of outdated C41 Konica film in the fridge.

I'm with Jan, I really like the mood of the color scans, I guess this could be a great option for 'out of normal' images. Sort of like when you want to experiment with cross processing to see what comes out.

Keep those experiments coming, and thanks a bunch for doing this and sharing its results here !

Oscar

 

[T_om]

This is where I wanted to use an aquarium heater. Maybe I can find one that goes high enough...hm.

Good luck, but I could never find one that would go high enough.

I ended up using a home-made heater from a water heater element and a Johnson temperature control.

Jeeze, I wonder if that old stuff is still out in the shed or garage somewhere?

Tom

 

[Stephanie Brim]

I don't plan on doing a lot of C-41...but a little wouldn't hurt me if it's just for cross processing my slide film. Maybe I can just do it using a tempered water bath...but that can get cold too. Decisions decisions.

 

[Damian]

I have to say I'm thankful for this thread. Today, I popped into my 'darkroom' (tiny coat closet) to load two rolls of film into my tank, and realized only AFTER I emerged from the closet that I loaded one roll of Tri-X 400 and another of Kodak Gold 200. I grabbed the wrong cassete. I didn't even KNOW you could process color film in B&W solution and get an image until I read this thread a week ago. So, I figured - what the heck, they're just test rolls anyway - I might as well go ahead and develop. They're drying right now, but I've got images on the negatives. They do look a tad dark though. I was worried a little because I shot the Tri-x at 400, and wanted to develop it straight at 400. We'll see what happens when I scan. I'll share. 🙂 Oh, I used Xtol in case anyone is curious.

 

[ZorkiKat]

This is where I wanted to use an aquarium heater. Maybe I can find one that goes high enough...hm.

You can probably use an aquarium heater- do they get hot enough to reach 38,5 Celsius (95F???)? Most of the C41 I've used work at this temperature. But some kits allow multiple/lower temperatures, and even "room" temperature developing.

Regardless of what you use, you can always adapt by trial and error to find the time/temp combination which works for you. "Works" would mean that the resulting negative would have the density and hues which suit your tastes.

For crossprocessing, accuracy isn't an issue- however, consistency is.

Only the C41 developer bath needs strict temperature/time monitoring.

Jay

 

[nrb]

agfa vista 400 in rodinal 1/50, 6' at 30 C