dshfoto
Well-known
Anyone using Tetenal Ulatafin (not plus)/?
Best dilution and times for Rollei RPX 100, Rollei RPX 400; Tri-x, Arista, Ilford?
Best dilution and times for Rollei RPX 100, Rollei RPX 400; Tri-x, Arista, Ilford?
Tetenal Ultrafin
- Thread starter dshfoto
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CamB
Member
Watching with interest, as its one of the only liquid developers available here (in NZ) other than Ilford LC29. I don't mind using ID-11 (and its cheap) but Ultrafin is cheaper again at 1:20 and about the same at 1:10 and I can see how it would be more convenient.
So if I might expand the question - what does it give similar results to?
So if I might expand the question - what does it give similar results to?
sebastel
coarse art umbrascriptor
dshfoto
Well-known
Thanks for the chart reference, but seeking what real users have narrowed in on through trial and error.
Jani_from_Finland
Well-known
I used the Tetenal Ultrafin Liquid (this product) when i started developing bw at home some years ago. I found it easy to work with, liked (back then) the look of it and got some nice printing with it. Was good priced per film roll. All in all, a very nice developer. I wouldnt mind trying it again, maybe.
Added info:
If i recall it right, i used mainly 1+30 or the 1+20 dilution.
Added info:
If i recall it right, i used mainly 1+30 or the 1+20 dilution.
Last edited:
dshfoto
Well-known
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, Fuji Neo 400
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, Fuji Neo 400
[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]Here's [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Times New Roman, serif]Fuji Neo 400 [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Times New Roman, serif]35mm film[/FONT], Ultrafin 1 + 29, 20c @ 17 min[/FONT] - Nikkormat FTn, Nikkor 50mm 1.4,
Pity that Fuji dropped the film.
At 17 min in Ultrafin the film base does not clear like it does for Rollei RPX 400.
[/FONT]
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, Fuji Neo 400
[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]Here's [/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Times New Roman, serif]Fuji Neo 400 [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Times New Roman, serif]35mm film[/FONT], Ultrafin 1 + 29, 20c @ 17 min[/FONT] - Nikkormat FTn, Nikkor 50mm 1.4,
Pity that Fuji dropped the film.
At 17 min in Ultrafin the film base does not clear like it does for Rollei RPX 400.
[/FONT]
Attachments
dshfoto
Well-known
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, Rollei RPX 400
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, Rollei RPX 400
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, 17 min @ 20c, Rollei RPX 400,
Nikkormat FTn w/ 85mm 1.8 @ 1/60 sec. Available light, no flash.
The unexposed film base clears. The scan did not clip out at either end on the Flextight PII.
The grain shows, but is acceptable on 8"x10" prints.
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, Rollei RPX 400
Ultrafin > 1 + 29, 17 min @ 20c, Rollei RPX 400,
Nikkormat FTn w/ 85mm 1.8 @ 1/60 sec. Available light, no flash.
The unexposed film base clears. The scan did not clip out at either end on the Flextight PII.
The grain shows, but is acceptable on 8"x10" prints.
Attachments
znapper
Well-known
I used it with a few films a while back, mostly Acros, but also with Plus-x, Neopan 400, Ilford FP4+, Ilford 3200 and Rollei-retro 80s. ( http://helino-photo.blogspot.no/search/label/tetenal%20ultrafin%201.20 )
My impressions, which may be as right or wrong as the next guy:
- Average concerning speed and grain.
- Does not lend itself to pushing very well it seems.
- Quite ok life-time for an opened bottle (3-6 months).
- Quite economical, usually I used it at around 1:20.
All in all, it does the job and it does it well. I never used it enough to be able to see how dilution affect grain-qualities and speed from the films I used.
I switched to HC-110 as my main developer after I finished my bottle. HC-110 does yield noticable better qualities regarding speed and grain (IMO) and the lifetime of the stuff is years++.
I never tried it with RPX, unfortunately.
My impressions, which may be as right or wrong as the next guy:
- Average concerning speed and grain.
- Does not lend itself to pushing very well it seems.
- Quite ok life-time for an opened bottle (3-6 months).
- Quite economical, usually I used it at around 1:20.
All in all, it does the job and it does it well. I never used it enough to be able to see how dilution affect grain-qualities and speed from the films I used.
I switched to HC-110 as my main developer after I finished my bottle. HC-110 does yield noticable better qualities regarding speed and grain (IMO) and the lifetime of the stuff is years++.
I never tried it with RPX, unfortunately.
dshfoto
Well-known
Ultrafine and Rollei RPX100
Ultrafine and Rollei RPX100
Seemed to work OK with the 35mm films. However the type 120 films Rollei RPX100 and the Arista.EDU Ultra 400 were a completely different story. With Tetenal Ultrafin dilution 1 + 29. The Arista.EDU Ultra 400 showed uneven development and the Rollei RPX100 had a faint image of the print on the lining (numbers and blocks). Since both of these films (from the same cameras) had developed perfectly in D-76, 1 + 1, I am thinking that I will give the HC-110 another try. The problem might go away with a pre-soke for a couple of minutes in water. Or, increasing the strength to 1 + 10 or 1 + 20, but I am not sure that I want to spend the time on this, give the bad results from the first trial run.
Ultrafine and Rollei RPX100
Seemed to work OK with the 35mm films. However the type 120 films Rollei RPX100 and the Arista.EDU Ultra 400 were a completely different story. With Tetenal Ultrafin dilution 1 + 29. The Arista.EDU Ultra 400 showed uneven development and the Rollei RPX100 had a faint image of the print on the lining (numbers and blocks). Since both of these films (from the same cameras) had developed perfectly in D-76, 1 + 1, I am thinking that I will give the HC-110 another try. The problem might go away with a pre-soke for a couple of minutes in water. Or, increasing the strength to 1 + 10 or 1 + 20, but I am not sure that I want to spend the time on this, give the bad results from the first trial run.
