anitasanger
Well-known
Hey everyone, I would like to thank you all for the tips and advice given to me while having issues with underexposure. Before doing anything, I took the advice here and put in new batteries and moved the ISO wheel all the way to the left and right a few times. Next, I did the CRT television shutter speed test and the speeds indicated to be correct. I also shot a roll testing over and underexposed shots and everything came out normal.
I think the problems I was having can be chalked up to: A. (primarily) my red/green colorblind issues having trouble differentiating between the shades of red and underexposing a lot of shots. B. Not overexposing for backlight compensation enough and C. New batteries. Nonetheless, my M6 is working perfectly as many of you expected. It could have been the batteries and or ISO wheel needing turned, but I'm not going to blame it on these things, as it was probably user error. I shot a couple rolls of tri-x and they turned out perfectly exposed.
The LED system was a pretty significant change from my K1000's needle system. So I'm probably going to go ahead and sell the M6 in hopes of finding a clean M5 with a needle meter.
Anway, thanks a lot for all the tips and help!
chaos by saveamerika, on Flickr
I think the problems I was having can be chalked up to: A. (primarily) my red/green colorblind issues having trouble differentiating between the shades of red and underexposing a lot of shots. B. Not overexposing for backlight compensation enough and C. New batteries. Nonetheless, my M6 is working perfectly as many of you expected. It could have been the batteries and or ISO wheel needing turned, but I'm not going to blame it on these things, as it was probably user error. I shot a couple rolls of tri-x and they turned out perfectly exposed.
The LED system was a pretty significant change from my K1000's needle system. So I'm probably going to go ahead and sell the M6 in hopes of finding a clean M5 with a needle meter.
Anway, thanks a lot for all the tips and help!
chaos by saveamerika, on Flickr
anitasanger
Well-known
Yep, you guessed it! I do have a lot of reloading to do. Need to break out the ol' RCBS Rockchucker. I haven't got to do any lens hunting yet. My plans are to sell the M6, look for a cheap, used beater M5 and hopefully have some money to buy some vintage lenses with. I've decided to keep the 50 Cron. It's just a classic lens.
Freakscene
Obscure member
I think an M5 and a clean Summarit 50/1.5 is exactly what you're looking for.
Marty
Marty
anitasanger
Well-known
Yeah I think you are right!
matt335
Well-known
Anita, that's an interesting photograph of shell casings and barbie dolls !!
BobYIL
Well-known
M5 is large, not so comfortable in small hands, you may miss the regular M size and shape. Further, a meter over 30 years old might need to be sent for calibration, sometimes more frequently one could expect. My recommendation: Use your M6 and simply disregard the meter in critical situations. Then get a Digisix or Sekonic with digital or analog display of your choice so you will have no issue of color-perception or LED brightness, etc.
ferider
Veteran
Cool photo.
Now that you know it works, I recommend to keep the M6 and add a hand-held meter. Sooner or later you'll need one anyways, and incident metering is very powerful. Once you get used to it, it's at least as fast as an in-camera meter.
Roland.
Now that you know it works, I recommend to keep the M6 and add a hand-held meter. Sooner or later you'll need one anyways, and incident metering is very powerful. Once you get used to it, it's at least as fast as an in-camera meter.
Roland.
newsgrunt
Well-known
I'd suggest keeping the M6 and using a handheld light meter. I've got Sekonic 308 meters, small, easy to pocket and uses a single AA battery.
anitasanger
Well-known
Thanks everyone, I appreciate the comments. I'm still trying to decide whether to ditch or keep the m6. I'd really like an mp.
ChrisN
Striving
If chasing an M5, try to get one that has been CLA'd and converted for the 1.5 volt battery. They originally used the 1.35 mercury battery which is no longer made, but silver-oxide batteries are available in the same size, in 1.5 volt. Sherry Krauter is the "go-to" person for servicing the M5.
PMCC
Late adopter.
Have you considered an M6TTL? The meter readout includes a circular LED between the two triangles. The circle lights up when the exposure is spot on. Much more positive in use; no fine visual sensitivity to the lights required.
nobbylon
Veteran
The affliction called MPitis is only cureable by spending a lot of money on something that is no better than your M6. It doesn't have a needle meter and will not cure colour blindness 
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
The affliction called MPitis is only cureable by spending a lot of money on something that is no better than your M6. It doesn't have a needle meter and will not cure colour blindness
+1 for that, John has nailed it.
I'd take the battery out of the M6 and shoot it with a handheld meter.
AFAIK Sherry prefers working on M5's over 135xxxx because of a shutter drum issue that the earlier numbers can develop and which requires a complete and expensive breakdown of the whole camera to fix.
Finding an M5 over 135xxxx and having it converted sounds like a lot of work to have a camera that can basically do what your current camera also can. Plus, if you have small hands, the M5 will be quite hefty. OTOH, when having big hands, the M6 might be smallish...
Keep us posted on the results of your endeavour!
anitasanger
Well-known
Oh I'll keep you posted for sure. I do have really small hands. My favourite guitars are fender Jaguars and Mustangs. (small radius necks) I wish the MP had a needle meter. I really like the idea of an onboard light meter. IMHO the LED meters don't fit in with the all mechanical, classic ideology of the M. Oh well.