JayGannon
Well-known
Nope Kodachrome was changed drastically from the 1930's process through a series of refinements in the 60's and 70's. The Current process was from the late 70's as far as I know.
The Kodachrome Revival Project
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Nope Kodachrome was changed drastically from the 1930's process through a series of refinements in the 60's and 70's. The Current process was from the late 70's as far as I know.
umboody
Established
This is really useful info guys, really appreciate it.
Wishful thinking I reckon. The digital scan will only record that black and White info. The colour is added to the slides during development 🙁
Wishful thinking I reckon. The digital scan will only record that black and White info. The colour is added to the slides during development 🙁
gb hill
Veteran
I can understand that, with you having so many rolls. I have one roll myself. Perhaps if someone comes up with a way to process it in color I'll shoot it. But in all reality I think it will be too expensive to have developed. If I had that many rolls I'd sell it or trade it for different films. There are people still buying the stuff. Also I didn't mean to come across as rude or anything, I hope you have good luck with the film. It just blows my mind that until Kodak came out & said they were discontuining the film the vast majority of people couldn't have cared less about shooting Kodachrome. Not me...I already had been wearing my Kodachrome Project tee shirt! 😉
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
Yes. That is exactly my point. The color information is there, but not the color (dye) itself. However, it might be possible to unlock it by other means.
Pickett Wilson
Veteran
JayGannon
Well-known
Nope not through any digital means at any rate.
KenR
Well-known
Why the fixation on RFF with seriously expired film and now a dead process? Having just found and trashed about 20 rolls of Tmax 400 that were casually stored, I can say (as has been said above) "Throw it out, move on and buy some fresh film!"
Ade-oh
Well-known
Kodachrome is an interesting process but it has had its day. Colour rendition is far superior in modern E6 films and if you really want those old Kodachrome colour casts, it's easy enough to replicate them in Photoshop with the Exposure plug-in.
My last roll of Kodachrome arrived yesterday from Dwayne's: I honestly don't think I'll miss it that much.
PS, Good luck to the people trying to revive it, but I doubt it will be commercially viable.
My last roll of Kodachrome arrived yesterday from Dwayne's: I honestly don't think I'll miss it that much.
PS, Good luck to the people trying to revive it, but I doubt it will be commercially viable.
Lilserenity
Well-known
As much as it pains me, and I was a dedicated Kodachrome shooter myself, I have to agree with this.
I'm not a Velvia 50 fan but it strikes me a much better idea to find another alternative. Kodak's E100G (I'd recommend an 81A or if shooting it outdoors) or Elite Chrome 100 is a superb film, and it will also go the way of the dodo if too many people are trying to revive something that is now dead.
I personally have settled with Elite Chrome 100/E100G and/or Ektar instead of Kodachrome. They aren't Kodachrome but they're very good, and in E100G/Elite Chrome's case provide very nice colour.
Maybe I'm flogging a dead horse but it makes me wonder why someone with the money to spend on developing something where there are now only supplies (and small ones at that) of expired film, it would seem a much more rational response to put the Kodachrome out to pasture and invest in film you can buy fresh off the shelf today.
IN fact in many ways as much as it's sacrilege for me to say it, I'm preferring the results from Ektar and E100G anyway.
Vicky
Ade-oh
Well-known
I'm a big fan of Fuji E6 films but I have to say that Ektar has beautifully subtle colour rendition and may wean me away from E6...
wblynch
Well-known
Slides were invented for projection. Ektar doesn't look so lovely on my screen...
aldobonnard
Well-known
kodachrome - BW processing
kodachrome - BW processing
Hi,
As I thought £30 per roll - process C22 was OTT, I have decided to go forward myself and processed a K200 yesterday.
Here are the facts:
_presoak the film for a couple of minutes. Pour out, don't be afraid by the yellow colour of the water.
_develop with Rodinal 1+100, time was approx. 20-21 min (I am never so strict when using Rodinal 1+100), temperature was rather 21degreesC. Agitation: 15sec every minute for the first 3-4 minutes, then every 3 minutes for 15 sec. Pour out, you will see that the devt water is very dirty, very black.
_wash 3 times with water at 25-28 degreesC, following the Ilford method. The high temperature will help removing the kodachrome black layer
_Fix at 20-25degC, I used Ilford Rapid fixer 1+4.
_wash again with water at higher temp (it was 25degC in my case). Ilford method, 3 successive strong washes. I added some continuous washing, at a temp of 25degC too, for 5-10 minutes.
_optional: stabiliser bath: 2 min; I used a personal mix of formaldehyde + wetting agent. I believe that stabilises the gelatin and anyway reassured me before sponging the film, for I knew I would have to. Indeed, there is a remaining sort-of-black-carbon layer on the film, which fortunately is very easy to remove. Either using wet fingers or a very soft cotton cloth (my case). Advice: If you are looking for formaldehyde, check the bath cleaning products: I have found that the COOP basic bathroom cleaner is a solution of it, needing only a bit of dilution (£1.5 a 500ml bottle, very good!).
Results: quite contrasty, but visually fine, similar to other BW negative films I could have used (I am yet to properly scan the negs).
Let me know how it works for you.
kodachrome - BW processing
Hi,
As I thought £30 per roll - process C22 was OTT, I have decided to go forward myself and processed a K200 yesterday.
Here are the facts:
_presoak the film for a couple of minutes. Pour out, don't be afraid by the yellow colour of the water.
_develop with Rodinal 1+100, time was approx. 20-21 min (I am never so strict when using Rodinal 1+100), temperature was rather 21degreesC. Agitation: 15sec every minute for the first 3-4 minutes, then every 3 minutes for 15 sec. Pour out, you will see that the devt water is very dirty, very black.
_wash 3 times with water at 25-28 degreesC, following the Ilford method. The high temperature will help removing the kodachrome black layer
_Fix at 20-25degC, I used Ilford Rapid fixer 1+4.
_wash again with water at higher temp (it was 25degC in my case). Ilford method, 3 successive strong washes. I added some continuous washing, at a temp of 25degC too, for 5-10 minutes.
_optional: stabiliser bath: 2 min; I used a personal mix of formaldehyde + wetting agent. I believe that stabilises the gelatin and anyway reassured me before sponging the film, for I knew I would have to. Indeed, there is a remaining sort-of-black-carbon layer on the film, which fortunately is very easy to remove. Either using wet fingers or a very soft cotton cloth (my case). Advice: If you are looking for formaldehyde, check the bath cleaning products: I have found that the COOP basic bathroom cleaner is a solution of it, needing only a bit of dilution (£1.5 a 500ml bottle, very good!).
Results: quite contrasty, but visually fine, similar to other BW negative films I could have used (I am yet to properly scan the negs).
Let me know how it works for you.
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