The Topcon Lens Saga: Optical Excellence, Mediocre Marketing

Topcon Lenses: Still tops after all these years
Tokyo Optical Co. (Topcon) made lenses that are sharp and much more

By Jason Schneider

Topcor SLR lenses in RE bayonet mount and the earlier Simlar and Topcor lenses in Leica screw mount, all made by the Tokyo Optical Co., have attained a cult following among connoisseurs of vintage lenses. Some hyperbolic Topcor/Simlar lens fans have even proclaimed that they blow the corresponding Nikon, Canon, Zeiss, and Leitz lenses out of the water. The truth is somewhat less earthshaking, but still impressive. In fact, the lenses made by Tokyo Optical Co. during the vintage era (roughly the early ‘50s through the mid ‘80s) do deliver exceptional imaging performance with remarkable consistency and they’re justly renowned for their signature combination of, superb sharpness, crisp detail, and distinctive natural rendition.

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An optical legend: 58mm f/1.4 RE.Auto-Topcor is renowned for its superb definition and gorgeous rendition and is prized by portraitists and art photographers.

Some examples, notably the superlative 58mm f/1.4 R.E. Auto-Topcor in Exakta-compatible Topcon RE bayonet mount, are considered timeless classics and have even been lovingly replicated, complete with Tokyo Optical Co markings no less, by Cosina! Others, including the earlier screw mount Simlars and Topcors of the ‘50s do occasionally outperform their counterparts from Nikon Zeiss, Canon, and Leitz, but many “merely” equal their more illustrious competitors—no mean accomplishment. After WW II Tokyo Optical Co. began producing 39mm screw mount lenses for the Leotax, a well-made Leica copy, and then marketed them (alas, not very aggressively) to Leica users. These are now prized user-collectibles, some of which fetch fancy prices.

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Tokyo Optical Co.'s first camera was the Lord, a 6x4.5 cm coupled rangefinder camera with a 7.5cm f/3.5 Toko-Anastigmat lens. Ingenious, but it didn't;t sell.

Tokyo Optical Company, Ltd. was founded in 1932, and like Nippon Kogaku (later Nikon) it began as an optical manufacturing company. Tokyo Optical Co. famously supplied lenses and optical instruments to the Imperial Japanese Army while Nippon Kogaku made lenses, binoculars, and optical instruments for the Imperial Japanese Navy. During the ‘30s Tokyo Kogaku designed super speed objectives for fluoroscopy with apertures as wide as f/0.7 and, in 1938 came up with the remarkable (uncoated) 50mm f/1.5 Simlar lens, one of the finest f/1.5 lenses of the prewar era. Available in Leica screw mount, this unconventional 7-element, 4-group Double Gauss design by Tomita Ryoji, was patented but nevertheless copied by J.H. Dallmeyer the venerable English optical firm, early in WWII and offered as the 2-inch f/1.5 Dallmeyer Anastigmat Septac -- one of very few instances of a famed European optical company appropriating a Japanese lens design! Tokyo Optical only made about 4,000 of the original series, and later made coated versions of the 50mm f/1.5 Simlar based on a different optical formula. Either one is a great lens, quite sharp in the center, with gobs if character and distinctive bokeh, but they’re expensive—the later coated version currently fetches about $2-3k in clean working condition, and earlier uncoated examples are astronomically priced.

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Postwar coated 50mm f/1.5 Similar used a different optical formula from landmark uncoated version (not shown) copied by Dallmeyer, Both are rare & pricey.

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2-inch f/1.5 Dallmeyer Anastigmat Septac of c.1941 was based on the ingenious 7-element 4-group 50mm f/1.5 Simlar of 1938. Both were great in their day.

Tokyo Optical Company also made excellent non-interchangeable leaf shutter lenses for a variety of medium format cameras, including the Primoflex and Laurelflex TLRs, the Mamiya Six IV, and of course its own very first camera, the Lord, an ingenious but not very successful 4.5×6 folder with a coupled rangefinder released in 1937. All these Tokyo Optical Co. lenses, perform very well, often better than their contemporaries. After terminating 35mm SLR camera production at the end of 1980 Topcon provided superb Topcor lenses for the pro-caliber Horseman 6 x 9cm Horseman VH and VH-R press/view cameras and helped to develop and provide lenses for the Horseman ER-1.

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Topcon RE Super of 1963, sold in the USA as the Beseler Topcon Super D, was a technological tour de force that made Tokyo Optical Co. a top contender.

Topcon began producing 35mm SLRs in 1957 before either Nikon or Canon, but their pièce de resistance was the Topcon RE Super of 1963 -1971 that was sold in the U.S. as the Beseler Topcon Super D. Rugged and versatile, it was the first SLR with an in-body TTL metering employing CdS cells ingeniously positioned behind slits in the instant-return mirror. It was aimed primarily at pros with its removable pentaprism, interchangeable screens, an array of high-performance Topcor lenses from 20-500mm, and a full line of system accessories. The Topcon Super D sold quite well but it wasn’t promoted as aggressively as the hugely popular Nikon F and it never enjoyed the same panache among pros. But every dog has its day, and that day came for Tokyo Kogaku when they won a contest to see who could manufacture the official combat camera of the United States military. The Topcon Super D beat out its archrivals from Nikon and Canon and was quickly adopted by the U.S. Navy as their official combat camera until production finally ceased in 1971. Throughout its lifetime, the Topcon RE- and D-series SLRs built a legendary reputation among hardcore shooters as a beautiful, bulletproof cameras with lenses that could go toe-to-toe with the best that Zeiss, Leitz, Nikon, and Canon had to offer.

Tokyo Optical Co lenses in Leica Screw Mount: A quick overview

All are beautifully made, have precision brass helicals for smooth focusing action, and most examples are finished in chrome.

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50mm f/3.5 collapsible Similar was a Leitz Elmar clone at least as good and maybe a tad better than the original. It was made for the Leotax, a Leica copy.

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Leotax, a well-made Japanese Leica copy of the '50s and '60s is shown here with a collapsible 50mm f/3.5 C. (for coated) Similar lens, a common pairing.

The 50mm f/3.5 collapsible C, Simlar, Simlar, and Topcor are all excellent quality, coated 4-element 3-group Tessar formula lenses that perform as well as or slightly better than a good Zeiss Tessar or Leitz Elmar. My own collapsible 50mm f/3.5 Topcor edges out my prized 50mm f/3.5 Red Scale Leitz Elmar in terms of sharpness at the widest apertures, and equals its “smooth, rounded” rendition and beautiful bokeh. According to user reviews, the rigid mount 50mm f/3.5 Topcor K with aluminum barrel performs similarly, and the rare, rigid 50mm f/2.8 Topcor, a 5-element, 3-group Heliar design that’s available in black or chrome, is even sharper, especially off axis at its widest apertures. It blows the 50mm f/2.8 Canon LTM (a good Tessar type) right out of the water and edges out the vaunted 50mm f/2.8 collapsible Leitz Elmar.

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Rigid 50mm f/2 Topcon S in Leica screw mount was an excellent choice for Leica shooters in the '50s; not quite a Summicron but a fine lens at a bargain price.

The 50mm f/2 Topcor, Topcor S, and black finish 50mm f/1.8 Topcor S are all outstanding normal lenses, the former of classic 6-element 4-group construction, and both "S" versions using a 7-element design that performs a bit better off axis at the widest apertures. Both are on a par with the best of their competitors from Nikon, Canon, and Zeiss, being edged out only by the 50mm f/2 Leitz Summicron. Both the 50mm f/1.5 Simlar and Topcor are commendably sharp even wide open, and have beautiful bokeh at their widest apertures, but for wildly distinctive “expressive” bokeh, the (wildly expensive) 50mm f/1.5 Simlar is most assuredly the hot ticket.

Other Tokyo Optical Co. LTM mount lenses include the 35mm f/2.8 Topcor (sold with huge external finder) the 90mm f.4 C Simlar, 90mm f/3.5 Topcor with aluminum barrel and knurled rings (sold with external finder) and the 135mm f/3.5 Topcor, which originally came with an accessory multi-frame 50/90/135nn finder. Regrettably, I haven’t had hands-on shooting experience with any of the lenses in this group but based in hands-on universally enthusiastic user reviews all provide Tokyo Optical Co.’s signature combination of outstanding sharpness, and smooth natural rendition.

Tokyo Optical Co. R.E. Auto-Topcor lenses in Topcon RE bayonet mount

Topcor RE lenses made by Tokyo Optical Co. range from a 20mm f/4 to a 500mm f/5.6 and include an 87-205mm f/4.7 zoom and 3 macro lenses without focusing mounts designed for bellows use. The full range of 18 lenses is respectable, but totally outclassed by the enormous line of F-mount Nikkors for Nikon SLRs and the number of Canon FT and FD lenses in the Canon system. The fact that the Topcon used what is essentially an Exakta bayonet mount rotated 180 degrees for convenient right-handed operation, imposed limitations on possible lens designs. The inner diameter of the mount is a mere32.5 mm, and the outer diameter (prongs included) is 37.5 mm). In other words, the mount is narrower that the M39 Leica screw mount, making it impossible to design anything wider and faster than a 20mm f/4, and extremely difficult to design any RE mount lens faster than f/1.4. Despite these restrictions, Topcor RE lenses are generally prized for their performance and many are considered priceless gems. Here are some hands-on evaluations based on my experiences shooting them on my Topcon R.E. Super, Beseler Topcon Super D, and Topcon Super DM.

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Topcon's 87-205 f/4.7 Auto-Topcor Zoom is not a thing of beauty, but it performs surprisingly well for a zoom of its era, and you can snag one for under $100..

Topcor 58mm f/1.4 RE Auto: The most acclaimed normal lens for Topcon SLRs is visually impressive with its massive front element, single coated on most versions, and its smooth turning, striated, rubberized focusing ring that takes the lens down to an impressive 45cm ( a little under 18 inches). Because of its longish normal focal length of 58mm (which gives 1:1 viewing) this is close enough for frame-filling head shots of kids, one of my favorite subjects. Based on a 7-element 5-group modified Planar design it delivers exquisite central sharpness at all apertures, superb definition across the field by f/4, and gorgeous bokeh at its widest apertures despite having a 6-bladed diaphragm that typically produced the dreaded “honeycomb effect” in out-of-focus highlights. Overall contrast is modest by modern standards, which helps to enhance its smooth tonal gradation, but it’s still high enough to make the images “pop.” The shorter focal length final iteration of this classic design is the RE GN Topcor M 50mm f/1.4 of 1973. Based on the same 7-element, 5-group optical formula as the 58mm, it’s multicoated, focuses down to 0.4m (15.7 inches) and provides flash guide number (GN) footage settings from 32-250. It’s a very nice lens, it’s radioactive (check out the B&H video online) but it’s bokeh is “busier” than the 58mm version. Yes, it’s a good, sharp lens but in my opinion, it lacks the character of the Topcor 58mm f/1.4 RE Auto, and it’s expensive—about $400-$800 0n the leading online auction sites. If you’re so inclined, you’re probably better off snagging a pristine Topcor 58mm f/1.4 RE Auto for $300-$500. It’s available in chrome or black finish (the latter at higher cost) and there are minor cosmetic variations mostly of interest to Topcon collectors more manic than I.

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The "sleeper" of the Topcon RE Auto-Topcor line, the 58mm f/1.8 doesn't have the pizzazz of the big 58mm f/1.4, but it's a superb lens and more compact.

Topcor 58mm f/1.8 RE Auto: This 6-element, 5-group classic was the less expensive, slightly smaller alternative to the Topcor 58mm f/1.4 RE Auto and it also debuted in 1963 along with the Topcon R.E. Super. It’s the sleeper of the line, and were it not for its more glamorous 2/3 of a stop faster stablemate that provides a slightly brighter focusing image and razor thin depth of field wide open. the 58mm f/1.8 would be it would be the flagship normal lens in in the Topcor RE line. It’s a magnificent lens, exquisitely sharp wide open in the center, tack sharp across the field by f/4, and capturing smooth natural rendition, good contrast, and excellent tonal gradation at all settings. Like the 58mm f/1.4, it focuses down to 0.45cm (just under 18 inches) for frame-filling head shots, delivers gorgeous bokeh at its widest apertures, and focuses with commendable smoothness. You can snag one of these beauties in pristine shape for about $150-$200 in chrome or $300-$400 in black on the leading online auction sites.

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The 100mm f/2.8 RE. Auto-Topcor is an outstanding portrait tele for film or digital imaging. This is the rare U.S. Navy version denoted with a red "N."

Topcor 10cm (100mm) f/2.8 RE Auto: A lens prized by collectors and users, especially those who adapt it to digital, this outstanding portrait lens introduced in 1965 is remarkably compact, is single layer coated, and features Heliar-type construction consisting of 5 elements in 3 groups. It’s extremely sharp even at f/2.8, with the corners coming in at about f/4 and it’s acclaimed for its smooth attractive bokeh in out of focus image areas despite having a 6-bladed diaphragm. Its contrast is moderate compared to current lenses, but its images can still “pop” while also retaining that rounded “vintage” rendition with long tonal gradation that many contemporary portrait photographers favor. The lens focuses down to 4 feet, close enough for head shots, but it does tend to flare in backlit situations, so a lens hood is recommended. The little Topcor 100 is beautifully balanced on any camera from a big Topcon Super D to a compact full-frame mirrorless, which makes it a great choice for handheld shooting. A pristine 100mm RE Topcor currently fetches about $250-300 in chrome, and the U.S Navy version marked with a red “N” commands prices in the $500-$600 range. It’s my second favorite Topcor after the 58mm f/1.4.

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The 85mm f/1,8 RE. Auto-Topcor is a spectacular performer, but only about 1000 were made and it's now a rare and pricey collectible.

Topcor 85mm f/1.8 RE Auto: Introduced as a wide aperture medium tele for portraiture in 1973, this high-performance 6-element, 5-group lens focuses down to 0.9m (3 feet), close enough for frame-filling head shots, has a 6-bladed diaphragm, and weighs in at a moderate 16.9ounces. According to press and user reviews, it’s extremely sharp, the best in its class, and provides beautiful vintage rendition and smooth attractive bokeh at its widest apertures despite its (you guessed it) 6-bladed diaphragm. Thanks to its wide f/1.8 maximum aperture it’s awesome for creating artistic effects using limited depth of field. Regrettably I’ve never shot with one of these jewels, and I’d love to acquire one. However according to creditable sources only about 1,000 were made and collectors have snapped up most of them, resulting in online auction prices in the $2,000-$3,000 range, a bit too rich for my blood. I guess I’ll just have to content myself with my superb 1+ stop slower much smaller and lighter 100mm f/2.8 RE Topcor-:)

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Topcon 20mm f/4 RE Auto is the widest lens possible given the narrow diameter of the Exakta mount Topcon used, but it's a magnificent ultra-wide equal to the best.

Topcor 20mm f/4 Auto: This 8-element, 6-group ultra-wide-angle masterpiece is a “radical retrofocus design” that was introduced in 1968 at the then very high price of $279.95. It covers a field of 94.5 degrees, focuses down to 1 foot, and stops down to f/22. Acclaimed for its extremely low linear distortion and crisp imaging, reviewers laud it as a “great lens,” but regrettably only about 1,500 were made so it’s relatively rare and quite expensive. Produced only in chrome finish and employing a dedicated clamp-on lens hood, it fetches about $700-$1,000 on the top online auction sites—if you take the plunge try to get it get it with the lens hood!

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A 35mm f/2.8 doesn't sound exciting, but this RE. Auto-Topco is extremely sharp and well corrected, and delivers outstanding performance at a modest price.

Topcor 3.5cm (35mm) f/2.8 RE Auto: This outstanding moderately wide-angle f/2.8 employs an impressive 7-element, 5-grpup optical formula that delivers razor sharp images with low distortion and just a hint of vintage character thanks to its warm color rendition and moderate contrast. The corners come in at f/4, and it has smooth attractive bokeh (noticeable mostly in close-ups shot at its widest apertures) despite its 6-bladed diaphragm. It also focuses down to a commendably close 9 inches, which is great for nature studies and the like. It’s readily available in chrome or black at the relatively modest cost of $150-$300. Based on my hands-on experience it’s a winner.

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58mm f/3.5 RE. Macro Auto Topcon is a true macro lens that gets down to 1:2 on its own but also delivers superb performance at normal focusing distances.

Topcor 58mm f/3.5 RE Macro Auto: Based on a 5-element, 4-group Xenotar-type design, this true macro lens gets down to 1:2 (10 inches) and it’s exceptionally sharp, has close to zero linear distortion, and virtually no off-axis light falloff even wide open. Indeed, its performance at infinity rivals that of most standard lenses, which greatly enhances its shooting flexibility. Since its front element is deeply recessed, a lens hood is not needed, and it can get down to 1:1 (life-size on film or sensor) with a dedicated or third-party extension tube. This gem is currently available all the usual places at $200-$350 in chrome finish and, and $500-$550 in black.

Obviously, there are many more Topcor lenses in RE mount that we couldn’t fully cover or review here, but you won’t go wrong with any of them in terms of their overall performance on film or adapted for digital capture. It is evident that the company acquired an incredibly sophisticated level of optical expertise by the mid to late ‘30s, and their intensive wartime experience in making optics for the Japanese Army served to hone the company’s impressive skill set. The ability to innovate quickly was another key part of Tokyo Optical Co.’s corporate culture. Indeed, by the late ‘50s they offered the gargantuan 300mm f/2.8 and hefty 135mm f/2 Topcor-R (pre-set diaphragm) lenses, which held the record for speed in their respective classes for many years.

If the amazing story of Tokyo Optical Co. reveals anything it’s the crucial importance of marketing in creating a brand image. While Topcor lenses were always as good as and often better than their competitors their marketing was not. Fortunately, we can still enjoy shooting with these optical classics now, and I can attest on the basis on my personal experience, that they’re bloody fantastic, have gobs of character and can capture truly beautiful images that stand the test of time.
 
With the exception of those made during the period when they used the self-destructing shutter curtains (mid to late 1950s, coincidentally also when sales were highest, so the most likely variants to turn up today) I've not had a problem with Exaktas…
With five Exaktas, I’m lucky that the curtains are in good shape - a bit wrinkly, but no holes. All the speeds are close and the timer-set speeds and long speeds work.

I checked and tested them before buying (in person), so that’s better than getting a camera in unproven condition in the mail. I’ve had them close to 20 years and use them, so my opinion of their quality is pretty high.
 
I've been dealing with a VX IIa I got recently -- shutter curtains have a lot of holes. Hoping it can be fixed with liquid electrical tape rather than having to get the curtains replaced. I had thought this camera would have been free of this problem, since it's early '60s (I thought the mid-late '50s cameras were when the bad shutter curtain material was used). But it's the only one of my five Exaktas with this issue.

On the other hand, contrary to Mos6502's experience, my VX500's shutter caps at the faster speeds. Maybe a little oiling of the shutter spindles would help with that? But I wouldn't know how to do that job.

Bringing this back to Topcon, though -- I was thinking the Topcor lenses could mount on the Exaktas, but the locking lever at 4:00 on the lens mount prevents it.
 
I've been dealing with a VX IIa I got recently -- shutter curtains have a lot of holes. Hoping it can be fixed with liquid electrical tape rather than having to get the curtains replaced. I had thought this camera would have been free of this problem, since it's early '60s (I thought the mid-late '50s cameras were when the bad shutter curtain material was used). But it's the only one of my five Exaktas with this issue.

On the other hand, contrary to Mos6502's experience, my VX500's shutter caps at the faster speeds. Maybe a little oiling of the shutter spindles would help with that? But I wouldn't know how to do that job.

Bringing this back to Topcon, though -- I was thinking the Topcor lenses could mount on the Exaktas, but the locking lever at 4:00 on the lens mount prevents it.

On the pre-VX1000 cameras, the little knob on the locking lever gets in the way. On the VX1000 & VX500, which lack the knob, Topcon lenses will mount without issue. Some T-mount adapters cause the same problem (and some have a little cutout in the mount to give clearance to the knob).

If your VX500 shutter is capping, it (like all 50 year old cameras) could use a little cleaning and new lubricants. The VX500 is incredibly easy to open up and requires no special tools aside from a rounded flathead screwdriver (or perhaps a small enough coin of some sort) for removing the advance lever and shutter speed dial. Easy stuff, I might even post a how-to thread in the repair section with full instructions. All that typically needs to be done is removal of "guts" which come out as a module for brushing out the dust and a few small drops of oil for the shutter spindles. Not generally necessary to disassemble any further than that.

Exakta guts by Berang Berang, on Flickr
 
I feel slightly conflicted taking Jason's excellent (as ever) exposition on the Topcon cameras further down the Exakta garden path. But other members have already made some very useful comments about the latter—so I'll throw my hat in the ring. If forum mods prefer the thread to stay on topic, I leave it to them to move all the constructive Exakta-based remarks elsewhere in toto—if they feel it's needed, that is...

With the exception of those made during the period when they used the self-destructing shutter curtains (mid to late 1950s, coincidentally also when sales were highest, so the most likely variants to turn up today) I've not had a problem with Exaktas, at least not anything I didn't also have with cameras from Japanese makers like Pentax, etc. It has always impressed me when dealing with the VX1000 and VX500 specifically, that after brushing out the dust and putting some oil on the shutter spindles, the shutter times would always be dead-on without any adjustment needed (and I find I'm not alone in noticing this!). Whereas I might spend a while adjusting the curtain tension back and forth on a Pentax to get the speeds back in spec. The VX500 of course loses the slow speed/self timer mech, so even less to go wrong, and it is perhaps the most bullet-proof 35mm SLR one could hope for. The pre-VX1000 cameras weak point seems to be the film transport/exposure counter mechanism, which isn't very robust, and easily damaged by people who don't know any better trying to force the advance lever around when the gears and pawls start to stick from lack of maintenance.
No, you are certainly not alone. I have not looked at a VX series Exakta but have worked on a few of the Varex series. Last year, for instance I serviced an original Varex for a friend (which surprisingly, had curtains still in serviceable condition). And also cut and fitted new curtains into my own Varex IIa as well as cleaning and lubricating the mechanism. After doing this the times were excellent. My friend's Varex needed one half a turn additional tension to one curtain spring. Mine required no adjustment at all. In each case, the mechanisms gave a repeatable 1/1000 time that was bang on right across the gate. And that is not as guesstimated with a cheap phone app, either, it's as measured with a Kyoritsu sensor at three points across the gate. To me that is a sign of a mechanism made with quality materials resistant to wear.

Not that Exaktas are perfect. They have their foibles. Wind ratchets are easily damaged by uninformed users if they have not read the book, and do not realise the lever must be wound completely through that very long stroke, before it can release and return to the rest position. And Ihagee did have a proclivity to use fasteners with a smaller thread size than many other makers. It's not a fatal problem, but it does mean you're at the mercy of whoever may have attempted to work on the camera previously. And a deft touch securing screws, whilst always invaluable with camera repair is perhaps more vital. Really hard worked Exaktas which have been serviced frequently may even suffer from "maintenance fatigue", Ie where threads and fasteners have weakened simply due to the amount of use—the threads for the bayonet mount screws are a case in point.

Given the above, I'd suggest if one wants to own an Exakta to use, (as opposed to collect), it's more important than usual to closely examine the condition of one's external fasteners. As John has pictured above, several of the control fasteners really do need a slot key in order to remove and fit them without marring their unusual curved screw slots. Yes; you can get them on and off with ordinary slotted drivers. But the slots will suffer from it. Fifteen minutes invested in making a suitable key is time well spent. If you want a really good forever Exakta, quite apart from the satisfaction of owning an example with undamaged fasteners, you'll probably have an easier job of getting it running well. Because (if you are really lucky) it will not have been opened up before, or, if it has, you at least have a better than usual chance that, whoever did work on it, was reasonably proficient and worked with care. I've found in the past that half the battle at least with an Exakta will be undoing the damage done by other people.

My friend's Varex is a case in point, there were some non standard fasteners inside it and a bit of other damage. As I've already mentioned, that came good. So I'm not necessarily suggesting your grandfather's or uncle's old Varex that's seen a hard life, cannot be made to work again. Merely that, if you are going to do the repairs yourself, given the option, a specimen with neat and tidy screws is not a bad place to start—you might not need to undo as many mistakes, this way.
Cheers,
Brett
 
This reminds me that I should take another look at my Topcon B. I can't remember exactly what problem it suffered from, other than fungus in the lens, which I cleaned out a while ago (but I've still never shot with it). Also the eyepiece suffered separation, so the pentaprism is currently unusable. It's just not easy to find early Topcon Pentaprisms. Years ago I found a WLF for early Topcons, but stupidly sold it, figuring I'd never have any use for it!

Coincidentally, my Topcon came from the Captain Jack Exakta collection.
 
I've been dealing with a VX IIa I got recently -- shutter curtains have a lot of holes. Hoping it can be fixed with liquid electrical tape rather than having to get the curtains replaced. I had thought this camera would have been free of this problem, since it's early '60s (I thought the mid-late '50s cameras were when the bad shutter curtain material was used). But it's the only one of my five Exaktas with this issue.

On the other hand, contrary to Mos6502's experience, my VX500's shutter caps at the faster speeds. Maybe a little oiling of the shutter spindles would help with that? But I wouldn't know how to do that job.

Bringing this back to Topcon, though -- I was thinking the Topcor lenses could mount on the Exaktas, but the locking lever at 4:00 on the lens mount prevents it.
Nick,
black liquid electrical tape can be a reasonably durable repair which may last some years. If you have a curtain in decent condition with one or two isolated holes—sun damage is an excellent example—it can work well. If on the other hand, a curtain has numerous holes it's not such a good idea. (I feel obliged to mention that a curtain that's got to that stage of deterioration, quite possibly may no longer be supple enough to curl sweetly around its rollers, and this can play havoc with the acceleration rate and, hence, consistency of exposure.)

But let's assume for a moment the curtains would work OK once light proof. The issue with liquid electrical tape is that it's certainly an effective light excluder, but it's also somewhat viscous and heavy for its volume. Hence, treating the entire surface of a curtain is certainly likely to make it light proof. But in the process you'll add enough mass that, once again, the travel time of the curtain across the gate and its acceleration will be adversely affected. It would not have as much impact on medium to slower speeds. But it's unlikely the 1/1000 setting, or the 1/500 and 1/250 times, will be in tolerance. They'll probably taper, too.

The best solution really is fitting new curtains to the camera, and, believe it or not, the Exaktas are some of the easiest types of focal plane shutter cameras to do this to. Granted, there are a couple of points that you need to know to make disassembly and reassembly easy (essentially, you keep the mechanism partially cocked as you remove and refit the works to the housing, and keep the top knobs and levers fitted at all times, except for when you are actually removing or fitting the top side covers, this preserves all the shutter gear and escapement timing). But, it is actually very easy to get the mechanism out of its body housing. And once you have, access to the curtains, all around the curtain shafts, and the entire mechanism is unsurpassed by any other SLR. Fitting new curtains is mostly a case of careful attention to detail and accurate measurement. Rick Oleson's notes are very helpful generally and specifically by providing a value for location of the second curtain end lath (0.25 inch).
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-160.html

Having once followed Rick's instructions to the letter and glued new curtain material to the cut off stubs of the original—if I was doing another set I would probably persevere, and prise apart the laths in order to slide new curtains into them, before gluing, clamping and peening them closed. Rick's suggested method works perfectly. However whereas an Exakta with original curtains will wind evenly right through the unusually long lever stroke—when new fabric has been glued to old—there is a moment in the wind stroke, when the resistance alters as the join in the fabric crosses a roller. It has no effect whatsoever on function. But is not as smooth as original. I found it slightly annoying personally, even though the shutter works beautifully...

I wouldn't want to see you get in over your head but if you were ever thinking of doing a curtain replacement an Exakta is possibly as easy as it gets (early Prakticas aren't too hard, either).

If you're intent on applying something to your existing curtains first: you'd do better with a flexible black fabric paint for widespread porosity. A light coating of this won't be as outright effective as liquid electrical tape. But it's pointless applying the latter, if it excludes light beautifully but the shutter no longer runs well (and it won't). Alternatively, a coating of a black silicon sealing product—Eg Silastic automotive sealer—can exclude light also. Once again, though, this can cause running faults. It's only viable if you spread a thin layer across the fabric, and gently scrape most of it off. Else, the same issues as using LET will result, for the same reasons.

It can be a PITA to get an Exakta slow speed/timer escapement train set up correctly if somebody has messed with it and lost the timing. I really should get in the habit of making more notes, because each time I rectify one that someone else has timed wrongly, I end up having to re-learn how to set it correctly. Some of the exposure combinations will usually work in any particular gear mesh. But, there's only one accurate tooth pairing that sees all the slow speeds, plus all the timer speeds, and the self timer (which has to fire Eg 1/1000 for you, too, if you're not using a slow speed) run correctly.

I've touched on how to easily prevent the timings being lost so these pitfalls can be sidestepped. (Another is winding the advance lever half way to lock it with the ratchet, and tensioning the escapement knob before removing it). Providing, however you remove and refit the mechanism to the body as described, it is actually very quick and easy to reach, and when you do, the access is so good that replacing curtains is not very hard, at all.
Cheers,
Brett
 
On the pre-VX1000 cameras, the little knob on the locking lever gets in the way. On the VX1000 & VX500, which lack the knob, Topcon lenses will mount without issue. Some T-mount adapters cause the same problem (and some have a little cutout in the mount to give clearance to the knob).

If your VX500 shutter is capping, it (like all 50 year old cameras) could use a little cleaning and new lubricants. The VX500 is incredibly easy to open up and requires no special tools aside from a rounded flathead screwdriver (or perhaps a small enough coin of some sort) for removing the advance lever and shutter speed dial. Easy stuff, I might even post a how-to thread in the repair section with full instructions. All that typically needs to be done is removal of "guts" which come out as a module for brushing out the dust and a few small drops of oil for the shutter spindles. Not generally necessary to disassemble any further than that.

Exakta guts by Berang Berang, on Flickr

If you want to post a how-to that will be wonderful!!
 
Nick,
black liquid electrical tape can be a reasonably durable repair which may last some years. If you have a curtain in decent condition with one or two isolated holes—sun damage is an excellent example—it can work well. If on the other hand, a curtain has numerous holes it's not such a good idea. (I feel obliged to mention that a curtain that's got to that stage of deterioration, quite possibly may no longer be supple enough to curl sweetly around its rollers, and this can play havoc with the acceleration rate and, hence, consistency of exposure.)

But let's assume for a moment the curtains would work OK once light proof. The issue with liquid electrical tape is that it's certainly an effective light excluder, but it's also somewhat viscous and heavy for its volume. Hence, treating the entire surface of a curtain is certainly likely to make it light proof. But in the process you'll add enough mass that, once again, the travel time of the curtain across the gate and its acceleration will be adversely affected. It would not have as much impact on medium to slower speeds. But it's unlikely the 1/1000 setting, or the 1/500 and 1/250 times, will be in tolerance. They'll probably taper, too.

The best solution really is fitting new curtains to the camera, and, believe it or not, the Exaktas are some of the easiest types of focal plane shutter cameras to do this to. Granted, there are a couple of points that you need to know to make disassembly and reassembly easy (essentially, you keep the mechanism partially cocked as you remove and refit the works to the housing, and keep the top knobs and levers fitted at all times, except for when you are actually removing or fitting the top side covers, this preserves all the shutter gear and escapement timing). But, it is actually very easy to get the mechanism out of its body housing. And once you have, access to the curtains, all around the curtain shafts, and the entire mechanism is unsurpassed by any other SLR. Fitting new curtains is mostly a case of careful attention to detail and accurate measurement. Rick Oleson's notes are very helpful generally and specifically by providing a value for location of the second curtain end lath (0.25 inch).
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-160.html

Having once followed Rick's instructions to the letter and glued new curtain material to the cut off stubs of the original—if I was doing another set I would probably persevere, and prise apart the laths in order to slide new curtains into them, before gluing, clamping and peening them closed. Rick's suggested method works perfectly. However whereas an Exakta with original curtains will wind evenly right through the unusually long lever stroke—when new fabric has been glued to old—there is a moment in the wind stroke, when the resistance alters as the join in the fabric crosses a roller. It has no effect whatsoever on function. But is not as smooth as original. I found it slightly annoying personally, even though the shutter works beautifully...

I wouldn't want to see you get in over your head but if you were ever thinking of doing a curtain replacement an Exakta is possibly as easy as it gets (early Prakticas aren't too hard, either).

If you're intent on applying something to your existing curtains first: you'd do better with a flexible black fabric paint for widespread porosity. A light coating of this won't be as outright effective as liquid electrical tape. But it's pointless applying the latter, if it excludes light beautifully but the shutter no longer runs well (and it won't). Alternatively, a coating of a black silicon sealing product—Eg Silastic automotive sealer—can exclude light also. Once again, though, this can cause running faults. It's only viable if you spread a thin layer across the fabric, and gently scrape most of it off. Else, the same issues as using LET will result, for the same reasons.

It can be a PITA to get an Exakta slow speed/timer escapement train set up correctly if somebody has messed with it and lost the timing. I really should get in the habit of making more notes, because each time I rectify one that someone else has timed wrongly, I end up having to re-learn how to set it correctly. Some of the exposure combinations will usually work in any particular gear mesh. But, there's only one accurate tooth pairing that sees all the slow speeds, plus all the timer speeds, and the self timer (which has to fire Eg 1/1000 for you, too, if you're not using a slow speed) run correctly.

I've touched on how to easily prevent the timings being lost so these pitfalls can be sidestepped. (Another is winding the advance lever half way to lock it with the ratchet, and tensioning the escapement knob before removing it). Providing, however you remove and refit the mechanism to the body as described, it is actually very quick and easy to reach, and when you do, the access is so good that replacing curtains is not very hard, at all.
Cheers,
Brett

Brett -- wonderful response. I have gone down the liquid electrical tape path, though -- bit by bit I've been applying it to both curtains, as I've noticed more pinholes. (Fingers crossed big time; haven't noticed problems with the shutter speeds, but I consider myself duly warned, and I appreciate your cautionary words.) I realize that replacing the curtains is the "A" answer here, and then the question is finding someone who can do it. I really think it's beyond my limited capabilities! But I'd love to be proved wrong.
 
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