The "Zinc-kreig" bug (or whatever): Let's see your battered & worn M6.

C

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CJ
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I'm asking for photos of your worn/damaged 'user' grade M6 in the hopes of finding how prevalent the top plate corrosion phenomenon is.

My hypothesis is that most M6s take their knocks without the top plates starting to get a very bad complexion. I don't know.

There's been a good amount of talk about this ailment of M6 top plates, but I haven't read anybody's story of how they remedied a scratched top plate where zinc is exposed to the outside, sweat, occasional coffee, etc.--or simply left it alone and ignored it. Stories? Anecdotes?

I'd like to touch my scratched top plate up with some clear nail polish; not to beautify it of course, but to keep the elements away from it. Or perhaps...some auto body touch up paint which, IIRC, is typically primer and paint blended together.

Anyone with battered/scratched M6s out there?


CJ
 
My hypothesis is that most M6s take their knocks without the top plates starting to get a very bad complexion. I don't know.
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Based on unscientific observation over quite a few years, I think that's true. For the most part, I believe that the ones that get bubbles are just the result of a problem in the process as applied to that specific top plate (and presumably those that were plated in the same batch). Every so often you see one that appears to have developed problems due to contact with something that was chemically active vis-a-vis the metal, such as a leather case.

The plating problem is much more prevalent with early R4 examples (don't want to type "R4s" since that's a model name) than with M6s.

Anyway, my hunch would be that if your M6 hasn't developed a case of the bubbles, it probably won't, no matter how the black chrome on top has worn.
 
I think I would go with JNewell. My local dealer has an other wise nice looking black M6 with a very "bubbly" top plate. There is no evidence of surface damage, but the finish looks like a pizza. My thought is poor washing after pickling in the plating process (but what do I know?).

He sent it to SOLMS for repair, on the basis that it is an obvious manufacturing fault, even though it is years out of warranty. The reply was that they would replace the top plate foc, but only if he had a full, chargeable, CLA that it does not need.

Since he wants to make a profit on selling, he decided not to pay the £350+ that they wanted to charge.....
 
lolz no it certainly is not. My mother's side of the family would be giggling their asses off. But as the correct term for it hints at - which still escapes me - this curious M6 characteristic actually had a term given to it.

To add confusion to my already confused head, the '83 VW GTI that I owned years ago had no rust - in part because, the body panels were zinc galvanized.


steenkamp said:
"Zinc-kreig" is not german...
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Strange but true: That one was built in the Pennsylvania plant. One point eight liters, 8 valves, and 5 speeds of joy. The previous owner had added an ANSA exhaust, making you feel like you were piloting some Group B monster (nice snap-crackle-pop on trailing throttle). Stock, other than that.

I recall reading an article about autos of that vintage, contrasting the 83 and on VWs with Japanese and US makes: Toyotas, Subarus from the early-mid 80s have mostly vanished from the US roads, having literally become rust buckets. And the 70s VWs were susceptible to it as well. According to this and other text I read, VW and Porsche got smart about the salt-treated winter roads and began to galvanize their body panels.


ath said:
VW in '83 galvanized? No.
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My oldest M6 was among the first 2700 cameras built.

There is no bubbling whatsover of the finish - just a bit of "brassing" (zincing?)on the edges. This is actually not unattractive in appearance - more so, certtainly than brass grinning out through a black finish.

The meter is fully functional and accurate. The previous owner had it for ten years and he just used it without any servicing.
 
JNewell said:
Anyway, my hunch would be that if your M6 hasn't developed a case of the bubbles, it probably won't, no matter how the black chrome on top has worn.
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No bubbles here...

2072476648_a6e104d56b_o.jpg


2072476656_5c79da83c1_o.jpg


2072476660_5c90cf2e67_o.jpg


Vincent
 
A very good solution is to get hold of an old (even from *bay, occasionally) M6 titanium top plate (made of brass, and much better construction), and then use it without worry. If you wish to renew the cosmetics, give it to CRR Luton beforehand to be painted (black, green, etc)- they do a wonderful job, and you will end up with an interesting special at little cost. M6s are for enjoyment, and should not be takeen too seriously!
 
I would put up two pics, but my chrome and black chrome are still mint. Both are from first issue in 198?.

My M4-2 and M4P are both brass.
 
My M6 was just sold, but it was a somewhat early one, 'well used', and had no chrome defects. My M5, also black chrome, got very wet at one point from what Sherry discovered 'under the hood', and it too has no chrome defects. I'm a big fan of the black chrome myself, I think they look great once they start to wear. I've got an a la carte MP coming in black chrome.
 
One of my two M6 bodies has a few small bubbles on the back,
under the painting, where the thumb goes.

Has never bothered me, it's a great camera - I have carried it all
around the world. Bought it a few years back for US 950. If ever
it bothers me I figure I can replace the top plate.

The other one of similar vintage (early 80s) is clean.

Roland.
 
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