x-ray
Veteran
Don't think so.
Thinking of changing Black & White Film Developer
- Thread starter Steve Ruddy
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Don't think so.
Ronald M
Veteran
B/4 you start, put developer in one container, ss in a second, fix in a third. Mark the bottles well and put them in order .
Never mix as you go. Cook the same way, measure out everything, make the recipe.
Never mix as you go. Cook the same way, measure out everything, make the recipe.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Like many above I use HC-110 and Rodinal (I use them one shot). I really hate going through what you are doing. Recalibration, testing, maybe a new EI, these are tasks that I don't relish.
Matt04182
Member
Bill Clark
Veteran
Hi Matt,
Don’t leave.
X-Ray did say something like breaking up into smaller bottles was excellent which was a suggestion from you.
I’ve gotten P.O.ed every so often but I have learned to let it go as I enjoy it here.
Stay involved. Lots of old farts like me here and maybe can say something every so often that helps you. And we do appreciate your comments.
Don’t leave.
X-Ray did say something like breaking up into smaller bottles was excellent which was a suggestion from you.
I’ve gotten P.O.ed every so often but I have learned to let it go as I enjoy it here.
Stay involved. Lots of old farts like me here and maybe can say something every so often that helps you. And we do appreciate your comments.
Matt04182
Member
Yeah, I didn't make it to the second part when I posted. I read the first sentence and immediately thought, "This is the internet. It's inescapable. This is what it is." Clearly, that was an overreaction.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Thanks for that, I assume that you could use this for Fixer too. I find my fixer concentrate goes bad, I'm wondering if this would help.
Freakscene
Obscure member
No, unfortunately. The reduction and sulfur precipitation in fixer can occur with age, irrespective of use and oxygen exposure. Thiosulfates are stable only in neutral or alkaline solutions, but not in acidic solutions, due to decomposition to sulfite and sulfur, the sulfite eventually being dehydrated to sulfur dioxide and it all occurs spontaneously. Use it, filter the solids, and toss it when the silver content is approaching 6 g/L, or when the clearing time is twice the clearing time of fresh fixer.
Marty
michaelwj
----------------
The whole film-developer combination is interesting. I’ve tried many developers, but they n the end settled on Rodinal, mainly because it just lasts and works pretty well with lots of films.
If I know I’m going to use Rodinal, then I can make the necessary steps when shooting the film to ensure a good image.
If I know I’m going to use Rodinal, then I can make the necessary steps when shooting the film to ensure a good image.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Take a hint from the folks who design airplane cockpits. Controls for each different functions are made to look and feel completely different. The landing gear lever often looks like a wheel, for instance, while no other control does. In this way, the pilot will not accidentally raise the gear when they meant to deploy the flaps. Each control is associated with one specific function. I keep my developers in dark brown glass beer bottles, so developer is associated with only those bottles. Stop bath and fixer are in clear plastic bottles of a different size, shape, and cap type from the beer bottles, which are on a different shelf from the others. Since the developer bottle has a different size, weight, look, and feel to the stop bath and fixer, there's little chance of mixing them up!
newsgrunt
Well-known
I use Rodinal, HC 110 an PMK pyro. I use a water bath instead of stop and fixer stays in bottle until film is in water stop, then gets measured out. Pretty well zero chance of contamination. Never liked the idea of keeping three filled measuring containers in the sink. ymmv
retinax
Well-known
Indeed fix can sty in the bottle until needed, then there's almost no risk of cross contamination. Why do you measure it? I see no need for that, I have one liter working solution and just pour some into the tank until it's nearly full.
leicapixie
Well-known
I suggest Rodinal/Blazinol as it goes magenta when used and pouring out!
If in doubt about mixing or polluting contaminating chemicals, throw out!
I now use HC-110 which has no color on out pouring, yellow before..
I will use some Orig. Rodinal in next few rolls.
If in doubt about mixing or polluting contaminating chemicals, throw out!
I now use HC-110 which has no color on out pouring, yellow before..
I will use some Orig. Rodinal in next few rolls.
DMA1965
Established
I am pretty sure Rodinal never expires. I have also had great luck with Xtol stock solution, but what I do is divide the 5 liter batch of stock over 5 bottles filled to the brim. I use resealable bail top dark brown beer bottles I find in stores that sell good beers, or I use the 1 liter French lemonade bottles found in gourmet stores. I also store the full bottles under the kitchen sink. I go through this much Xtol in 3 months using it either 1:1 or 1:2. The difference between the two developers is that Rodinal produces negatives with higher grain but very good acutance. It is also perfect for stand developing at a ratio of 1:100. Xtol prices very fine grain with a little less acutance. I have some self created formulas where I mix the two together, and that produces my favorite results of all.
ktmrider
Well-known
I have the same problem. I often accumulate lots of film and do the developing in spurts. The D76 oxidizes between batches. I use Ilford HP5 primarily because it dries flat and is just a bit cheaper then TriX. And I tend to use the manufacturer's suggested ISO so what do you recommend?
Have never used HC110 but it seems to offer easy mixing, long life and developing action similar to D76.
Have never used HC110 but it seems to offer easy mixing, long life and developing action similar to D76.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Rats: but thanks very much for the information.
Uncle Fester
Well-known
Hi Steve,
I like Kodak HC-110. It comes as a highly concentrated stock solutions that can be diluted just before use and can be used once and discarded. It is also much more economical to use than D-76 stock. Image quality is very good with either once you have the film speed and developing times dialed in for your working conditions.
Many people like to use it diluted 1+31, 1+50 or 1+63 straight out of the bottle instead of the official Kodak dilutions. Diluting the concentrate 1+31 will give you the official Dilution B. I like to use it at 1+63 because I feel that the developing times with Dilution B are too short and can result in overly contrasty negatives with many films. I like to keep my developing times around 8 to 12 minutes and Dilution B is too strong to allow that.
The nice thing about HC-110 is that the undiluted concentrate in the bottle lasts a VERY long time because the is no water in the concentrate. It is a thick glycol basesd syrup, so you will need to be able to measure it accurately when you dilute it.
You can also mix the concentrate into a stock solution according to Kodak's instructions, but the stock solution doesn't last as long as the undiluted concentrate.
Freestyle sells a work-alike developer called Legacy-Pro L-110 Film Developer. I haven't tried it yet, but it is supposed to give results that are very similar to HC-110. The shelf life of the concentrate might not be as long as the Kodak product because the formula isn't exactly the same as HC-110, and it may contain some water.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Another great thing about concentrated syrup developers like HC-110 or Rodinal is that there's no need to mix up and store a stock solution.
Simply measure out the required amount of developer into water at the desired temperature and mix. It can be used immediately.
Simple and less chance of errors; it's pretty much foolproof! 🙂
Chris
Simply measure out the required amount of developer into water at the desired temperature and mix. It can be used immediately.
Simple and less chance of errors; it's pretty much foolproof! 🙂
Chris
Steve M.
Veteran
"I often accumulate lots of film and do the developing in spurts. The D76 oxidizes between batches".
I've had this problem for years and years. My D76 tends to lose it's freshness in a matter of one month, mostly because I tend to live in hot climates and like my living areas warmer than most people. Tried TD-16 from Photography Formulary, a D76 clone with changes that make it more shelf stable, and that helped, but the developer still tends to go off rather quickly. People talk about using theirs for 6 months or a year, but not for me.
you can also mix it up one shot from the powder package. Others do that, while others say it won't work because of this reason or that reason. I finally decided that the cost was minimal so I just mix it up into a gallon like always and throw it out every month. Not a big expense. Mic-X and Rodinal are two developers I use for certain films and looks, but nothing gives me the beautiful tones of Tri-X in full strength D76.
The Fomadon R09 type of Rodinal went bad on me inside of three months. Other people complained of this too.
I've had this problem for years and years. My D76 tends to lose it's freshness in a matter of one month, mostly because I tend to live in hot climates and like my living areas warmer than most people. Tried TD-16 from Photography Formulary, a D76 clone with changes that make it more shelf stable, and that helped, but the developer still tends to go off rather quickly. People talk about using theirs for 6 months or a year, but not for me.
you can also mix it up one shot from the powder package. Others do that, while others say it won't work because of this reason or that reason. I finally decided that the cost was minimal so I just mix it up into a gallon like always and throw it out every month. Not a big expense. Mic-X and Rodinal are two developers I use for certain films and looks, but nothing gives me the beautiful tones of Tri-X in full strength D76.
The Fomadon R09 type of Rodinal went bad on me inside of three months. Other people complained of this too.
x-ray
Veteran
HC110 is an excellent choice for HP-5 and is the combination I often use. It's also excellent with Acros and Neopan if you have any. I'm also very fond of it with Delta 100 & 400.
As mentioned it's very versatile and the concentrate keeps for very long periods.
I've tried the Freestyle version and when freshly opened it's comparable to Kodak HC110 but it unfortunately oxidizes in a few weeks in concentrated form. For that reason I quit using it.
Ilford makes an equivalent of HC 110 called HC. Film responds identically when developed in it when compared to HC110. The downside is it's much more expensive than HC110.
I still recommend doing as in a previous post. Mix your stock then divide into smaller GLASS, not plastic, bottles. If not totally filled use Bloxygen or Wine Preserver to displace the air. Another solution ive heard people use is to drop marbles into the bottle to raise the liquid level and displace the air.
Since youve used D76 and you like it I wouldn't change. Changing requires dialing in speed, agitation, times and ISO all over again. In addition HC110, Rodinal, DDX, D76 or any other developer will produce different negatives. Pick a film and use 6 different developers and you'll get 6 different looking and printing negatives.
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