This actually works

colyn

colyn

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A friend of mine burned a hole in his IIIc shutter curtain and talked me into replacing the curtain....while he looked over my shoulder.. :rolleyes:

Once ready to adjust the speeds I thought I'd give it a try so I drug out an old Win 2k machine with CRT monitor and tried it out..

I then checked the speeds with a "real" tester and found all speeds within range. No other adjustment was required..

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html
 
le vrai rdu said:
great :D

I love this kind of method :D
Click to expand...

I just checked my IIIf black dial using this method and the speeds looked good.

I shouldn't be surprised since Leitz set the shutter speeds of all new screw Leicas using the drum method. This works somewhat on the same principal..
 
This must depend on scan rate? E.g. NTSC has a vertical frequency just under 60Hz, PAL has vert. freq. of 50Hz. CRTs (gosh, remember those?!) range from 60Hz up to near 85Hz or something.
 
Depends on being able to correctly judge the width of the slit at different speeds. I tried it with my FED-2 but didn't get it quite right.
 
xwhatsit said:
This must depend on scan rate? E.g. NTSC has a vertical frequency just under 60Hz, PAL has vert. freq. of 50Hz. CRTs (gosh, remember those?!) range from 60Hz up to near 85Hz or something.
Click to expand...
It does depend on the scan-rate. If you use a PC monitor, there's generally a choice of a few rates from which you can select one to use. Mine gives me 60/75/85Hz. I tend to use a white raster (like a blank document or browser window).

I've used this method to set shutters several times, to be honest I tend to look for parallel bands rather than trying to figure exact speeds - parallel bands mean an even exposure. With film latitude and likely metering errors I've never had a fluffed shot that wasn't more my fault than the camera's!
 
I use this method to get the speeds roughly on and then use my home made tester to tweak the speeds to within tolerance. Knowing what the slits look like at 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250 and 1/125 also helps when buying s/h. The main problem i've come across with M's is that the 1/1000 speed is too fast, slit too narrow. Once adjusted the others seem to fall into spec.
 
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