mooge
Well-known
Long story short, I've been using a Gossen Lunasix 3 from when I started photography until this summer when it died. Since then, I've bought two replacement meters - a Gossen Variosix F and Sekonic L-428. Replacement candidates had to be similar to the Lunasix - good sensitivity range, pocket size, incident, accurate, and direct light readout (no twisting dials and aligning needles). I really should have just bought another Lunasix but I didn't, so here is some commentary on the Lunasix versus its replacements.
Gossen Lunasix - old faithful / the gold standard
~200g
10.5x6.5x3 cm
CdS photocell
2x 1,35v batteries
market value: $20-60
The lunasix has changed the way I think about light and exposure - pressing the meter button (high and low ranges with auto-switching scale) will move the needle to a value between 1 and 22- 20 being sunny 16 and the others being 1 stop increments up or down from there. So ever since I've thought of light as light, rather than specific exposure values, which has helped me estimate exposures when I had to. Bright interiors are a 13, dimmer interiors are 10-11, cloudy days are usually around 16, etc...
The Lunasix does incident or reflected, but I use it almost exclusively as an incident meter. As mentioned above, light values are read off a needle and scale, and can be translated to exposure values with a dial. The metering cell is CdS and the power is from two 1,35v batteries. I got mine to work well on 1,5v batteries, sometimes partially drained, with the needle zero to compensate.
What killed my lunasix? Probably dust. Dust from my pocket gets everywhere in this meter - under the calculator dial, and in the meter body. Right now the needle gets stuck at a certain point and I can't figure out why...
Would I get another one? absolutely! then why didn't I buy that one I found for $20 in Toronto? temporary insanity, probably...
Gossen Variosix F
~175g
12.5x6.5x2.5 cm
Silicon Blue photocell
1x 9v battery
Market value: ??? I paid $175 with spot attachment
So after the Lunasix packed in while I was in a competition in Michigan (!), I figured it might be worthwhile to spend a little more on a dead-accurate digital meter. And I wanted a Gossen, since my Lunasix was so good. So I bought this Variosix F on the local classifieds.
The variosix is pretty fancy - the meter cell is a Silicon blue one, and it swivels around. The meter comes with two incident domes, one normal one and one for extra-bright light, and either can be removed for reflected metering. Mine also came with a spot attachment, which I never used.
There are six buttons on this meter. The 'function' buttons switch between the various modes (T, F, EV, flash, ISO set, compensation for filters or whatever), the up and down arrows change the aperture or shutter speed value in F and T modes respectively, or change the aperture in EV mode, or change the ISO or compensation. The meter button gives you a meter reading, and if you hold the button down, the contrast will be displayed on an aperture scale. The flash button on the left of the meter fires a flash presumably, because it's wired to a PC synch port and that's it. Note that there is no power on button - the meter turns on with a press of any button and turns off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
The Variosix runs off a 9v battery and has resolution to 0.1 of a stop.
In use, I often set the meter to EV mode and set the ISO to 3200 to match my old Lunasix scale that I was so used to. A downside to this method is that if I switched to ISO 100 film in the dark, suddenly, I can't compute my time and aperture so easily so I have to change the ISO and mode, which takes a little while (the meter isn't super responsive to button presses). In incident mode, it's dead accurate, but in reflective mode I think it's 1 stop too low. I only used reflective once or twice.
as an aside, I was debating buying the Variosix or a Sekonic L-308 that was also on the local classifieds. I chose the variosix for a couple reasons:
1. the Sekonic has to be turned on before a light measurement can be taken, which means it's out of your pocket and two buttons have to be pressed. That sounds kind of annoying - whose stupid idea was that?
2. the Variosix can display aperture and shutter speed when in EV mode. the Sekonic on the other hand, just displays EV and nothing else. Of course, when I was in EV mode, I usually ignored what my shutter speed and aperture was.
on the other hand, the Sekonic is smaller than the Variosix, weathersealed, takes a AA battery and can probably be repaired by Sekonic.
I bought the Variosix in June and I've had it in my pocket until it died last week. Death came randomly - I haven't dropped it or abused it - and it's an electrical issue that I have no idea how to fix. I think I'll try to get it repaired since it cost me so much... would I buy another one? I don't really think so - really expensive, and dubious durability, and if it breaks, I don't think Gossen will fix it. I'll have to ask them.
Sekonic L-428
~280g
14x6.5x4 cm
Silicon Blue photocell
4x LR44 or 357 1,5v batteries
Market Value: ??? I paid $40
So, Lunasix is dead, so is the variosix. Obviously the only option is to take to the classifieds again, and that's where I find the L-428, which I've never heard of before. There are three very appealing features to me here:
1. Similar operation to Lunasix - readout from 1-22 off a scale with needle indicator, dial exposure calculator, meter button with needle lock
2. Silicon blue cell, which according to the internet, is superior to CdS
3. easy to find and no-fuss 1,5v batteries
So the scale runs from 1-22, but somewhat annoyingly, they're not the same - 20 on the Sekonic is 19 on the Lunasix. I can deal with that I guess.
The Sekonic is noticeably heavier and bulkier than the Gossens - it feels a little bit like a brick in your pocket. I'm not forseeing any issues with durability.
Three metering attachments come with the meter - the standard incident dome, an incident disk, and a reflective metering aperture. Each bayonets onto the swively metering head with a very solid metal bayonet mount, with solid click-stops. Reflective metering reads lower than incident, and separate indicator on the exposure calculator is provided (so a 10 in incident is equivalent to 6 with reflective metering). Somewhat concerningly, the incident dome and flat disc disagree with each other by 1/2 stop. Another thing to note about the dome is that it's huge, and looks kind of fragile - I'm going to use the disk out of fear that the dome would get shattered in my use.
Would I buy another one? yeah, maybe. it's heavier and larger than the Lunasix, but the SBC cell and 1,5v batteries make up for that... it remains to be seen whether it can take a beating and still function, which is really the crucial issue.
Gossen Lunasix - old faithful / the gold standard
~200g
10.5x6.5x3 cm
CdS photocell
2x 1,35v batteries
market value: $20-60
The lunasix has changed the way I think about light and exposure - pressing the meter button (high and low ranges with auto-switching scale) will move the needle to a value between 1 and 22- 20 being sunny 16 and the others being 1 stop increments up or down from there. So ever since I've thought of light as light, rather than specific exposure values, which has helped me estimate exposures when I had to. Bright interiors are a 13, dimmer interiors are 10-11, cloudy days are usually around 16, etc...
The Lunasix does incident or reflected, but I use it almost exclusively as an incident meter. As mentioned above, light values are read off a needle and scale, and can be translated to exposure values with a dial. The metering cell is CdS and the power is from two 1,35v batteries. I got mine to work well on 1,5v batteries, sometimes partially drained, with the needle zero to compensate.
What killed my lunasix? Probably dust. Dust from my pocket gets everywhere in this meter - under the calculator dial, and in the meter body. Right now the needle gets stuck at a certain point and I can't figure out why...
Would I get another one? absolutely! then why didn't I buy that one I found for $20 in Toronto? temporary insanity, probably...
Gossen Variosix F
~175g
12.5x6.5x2.5 cm
Silicon Blue photocell
1x 9v battery
Market value: ??? I paid $175 with spot attachment
So after the Lunasix packed in while I was in a competition in Michigan (!), I figured it might be worthwhile to spend a little more on a dead-accurate digital meter. And I wanted a Gossen, since my Lunasix was so good. So I bought this Variosix F on the local classifieds.
The variosix is pretty fancy - the meter cell is a Silicon blue one, and it swivels around. The meter comes with two incident domes, one normal one and one for extra-bright light, and either can be removed for reflected metering. Mine also came with a spot attachment, which I never used.
There are six buttons on this meter. The 'function' buttons switch between the various modes (T, F, EV, flash, ISO set, compensation for filters or whatever), the up and down arrows change the aperture or shutter speed value in F and T modes respectively, or change the aperture in EV mode, or change the ISO or compensation. The meter button gives you a meter reading, and if you hold the button down, the contrast will be displayed on an aperture scale. The flash button on the left of the meter fires a flash presumably, because it's wired to a PC synch port and that's it. Note that there is no power on button - the meter turns on with a press of any button and turns off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
The Variosix runs off a 9v battery and has resolution to 0.1 of a stop.
In use, I often set the meter to EV mode and set the ISO to 3200 to match my old Lunasix scale that I was so used to. A downside to this method is that if I switched to ISO 100 film in the dark, suddenly, I can't compute my time and aperture so easily so I have to change the ISO and mode, which takes a little while (the meter isn't super responsive to button presses). In incident mode, it's dead accurate, but in reflective mode I think it's 1 stop too low. I only used reflective once or twice.
as an aside, I was debating buying the Variosix or a Sekonic L-308 that was also on the local classifieds. I chose the variosix for a couple reasons:
1. the Sekonic has to be turned on before a light measurement can be taken, which means it's out of your pocket and two buttons have to be pressed. That sounds kind of annoying - whose stupid idea was that?
2. the Variosix can display aperture and shutter speed when in EV mode. the Sekonic on the other hand, just displays EV and nothing else. Of course, when I was in EV mode, I usually ignored what my shutter speed and aperture was.
on the other hand, the Sekonic is smaller than the Variosix, weathersealed, takes a AA battery and can probably be repaired by Sekonic.
I bought the Variosix in June and I've had it in my pocket until it died last week. Death came randomly - I haven't dropped it or abused it - and it's an electrical issue that I have no idea how to fix. I think I'll try to get it repaired since it cost me so much... would I buy another one? I don't really think so - really expensive, and dubious durability, and if it breaks, I don't think Gossen will fix it. I'll have to ask them.
Sekonic L-428
~280g
14x6.5x4 cm
Silicon Blue photocell
4x LR44 or 357 1,5v batteries
Market Value: ??? I paid $40
So, Lunasix is dead, so is the variosix. Obviously the only option is to take to the classifieds again, and that's where I find the L-428, which I've never heard of before. There are three very appealing features to me here:
1. Similar operation to Lunasix - readout from 1-22 off a scale with needle indicator, dial exposure calculator, meter button with needle lock
2. Silicon blue cell, which according to the internet, is superior to CdS
3. easy to find and no-fuss 1,5v batteries
So the scale runs from 1-22, but somewhat annoyingly, they're not the same - 20 on the Sekonic is 19 on the Lunasix. I can deal with that I guess.
The Sekonic is noticeably heavier and bulkier than the Gossens - it feels a little bit like a brick in your pocket. I'm not forseeing any issues with durability.
Three metering attachments come with the meter - the standard incident dome, an incident disk, and a reflective metering aperture. Each bayonets onto the swively metering head with a very solid metal bayonet mount, with solid click-stops. Reflective metering reads lower than incident, and separate indicator on the exposure calculator is provided (so a 10 in incident is equivalent to 6 with reflective metering). Somewhat concerningly, the incident dome and flat disc disagree with each other by 1/2 stop. Another thing to note about the dome is that it's huge, and looks kind of fragile - I'm going to use the disk out of fear that the dome would get shattered in my use.
Would I buy another one? yeah, maybe. it's heavier and larger than the Lunasix, but the SBC cell and 1,5v batteries make up for that... it remains to be seen whether it can take a beating and still function, which is really the crucial issue.
Robert Lai
Well-known
Try Quality Light Metric
Try Quality Light Metric
I think that the answer is to keep them out of your pockets!
I have a Gossen Lunasix F which is my reference meter. It has always provided accurate exposures, including for multiple flash setups.
I also have a Weston III and Weston V that are selenium cell based, and they work beautifully. The Weston V has a new selenium cell from Quality Light Metric. You may wish to give QLM (George) a call:
(323) 467-2265
Being based in Hollywood, they repair all meters. You can only guess that cinematographers need to get correct exposure for every shoot, as any retakes will be extremely expensive!
CdS cells can die, and that may be the cause of your old Lunasix 3 giving up the ghost. I'd bet that QLM can repair and clean out that meter. It will probably not make the most economical sense, but if the meter has sentimental attachments for you, it may be a consideration.
Try Quality Light Metric
I think that the answer is to keep them out of your pockets!
I have a Gossen Lunasix F which is my reference meter. It has always provided accurate exposures, including for multiple flash setups.
I also have a Weston III and Weston V that are selenium cell based, and they work beautifully. The Weston V has a new selenium cell from Quality Light Metric. You may wish to give QLM (George) a call:
(323) 467-2265
Being based in Hollywood, they repair all meters. You can only guess that cinematographers need to get correct exposure for every shoot, as any retakes will be extremely expensive!
CdS cells can die, and that may be the cause of your old Lunasix 3 giving up the ghost. I'd bet that QLM can repair and clean out that meter. It will probably not make the most economical sense, but if the meter has sentimental attachments for you, it may be a consideration.
mooge
Well-known
And if I wanted to keep my cameras in good condition I'd just leave them at home in a box - but what's the fun in that? I'm willing to accept that meters 'wear out' after 4-5 years of pocket time.
The CdS cell is still okay - the needle gets stuck / hesitates at a point in its swing. There's friction somewhere- but where? or is the magnetic field weird somehow? I don't know.
The Lunasix has sentimental value for me but it's just so beat... and they're worth $20 anyways. I'll probably pick up another one when I find one. I will give Quality Light Metric a call though, if Gossen says they can't fix the variosix - thanks!
The CdS cell is still okay - the needle gets stuck / hesitates at a point in its swing. There's friction somewhere- but where? or is the magnetic field weird somehow? I don't know.
The Lunasix has sentimental value for me but it's just so beat... and they're worth $20 anyways. I'll probably pick up another one when I find one. I will give Quality Light Metric a call though, if Gossen says they can't fix the variosix - thanks!
mooge
Well-known
aaaaand the Sekonic is dead. It's been what, two weeks, not even?
I haven't dropped it or anything - I pulled it out of my pocket and now it just shoots the needle to 0 most of the time, unless the cell receives a decent amount of light. I was hoping the switch was dirty or something but I can't quite figure it out yet.
stupid electrons.
I haven't dropped it or anything - I pulled it out of my pocket and now it just shoots the needle to 0 most of the time, unless the cell receives a decent amount of light. I was hoping the switch was dirty or something but I can't quite figure it out yet.
stupid electrons.
maddoc
... likes film again.
remove the magnet from your pocket! 
:angel:
:angel: