thypoch.com/simera-50mm

With a shot like this- something will be underexposed. But- the center looks fine.

Vignetting on the part of the lens will also change exposure. If a lens loses 2 stops at the edges- the camera will increase exposure to try to compensate. The center blows out, the edges are dark. This was not as noticeable on film.

The lens looks sharp- let's see some shots in less harsh lighting.
This lens is the same configuration as the ASPH Summilux 50/1.4.

OK, but remember, you asked for this. This is just a random shot at the Chinese restaurant on the way home. This place is a gem. They could make a living anywhere and they are tucked in the tiny seaside Oregon town of, wait for it, Seaside! New Garden Asian Cuisine if you are ever there. The folks who run it are really nice people. Yes, the two kids, boy and girl, are getting good grades. It's the law in their home.

But here is the random shot. Better stuff to follow. Wide open IIRC

L1003626 by West Phalia, on Flickr​
 
OK, but remember, you asked for this. This is just a random shot at the Chinese restaurant on the way home. This place is a gem. They could make a living anywhere and they are tucked in the tiny seaside Oregon town of, wait for it, Seaside! New Garden Asian Cuisine if you are ever there. The folks who run it are really nice people. Yes, the two kids, boy and girl, are getting good grades. It's the law in their home.

But here is the random shot. Better stuff to follow. Wide open IIRC

L1003626 by West Phalia, on Flickr​
More colorful than a fence post! Looks good.
 
More colorful than a fence post! Looks good.

You want a fence post? I'll get you a fence post. LOL Yeah, I am getting ready for the night meds and then roll off to bed. I just cannot break the 3:00 to 4:00 habit. I could be doing a lot worse things. I will get you some good color when I get up and after I put a load in the washer. ;o)
 

I wonder how these two lenses compare....
I think you need One More 50...

I have the TTA 50/1.4 but mine is in Nikon Z-mount. It's the same optics as the M-mount but TTA obligingly put a Z-mount on it and that lowered the price a bit. It's a very sharp lens, at least in the center. Photos are nice at f/1.4 with the narrow DOF. I don't test lenses so I can't comment on visible aberrations or edge sharpness, etc. The only things about the lens that sorta bother me is the length and weight--long and heavy--plus the focus is smooth but a bit too tight. That's probably intentional, however. The tight focus ring helps with precise focusing, especially wide open. If you test one, I'd be interested in how it performs for you especially in comparison to the Thypoch, a lens I also considered. As if I really need another 50mm lens.
 
I have the TTA 50/1.4 but mine is in Nikon Z-mount. It's the same optics as the M-mount but TTA obligingly put a Z-mount on it and that lowered the price a bit. It's a very sharp lens, at least in the center. Photos are nice at f/1.4 with the narrow DOF. I don't test lenses so I can't comment on visible aberrations or edge sharpness, etc. The only things about the lens that sorta bother me is the length and weight--long and heavy--plus the focus is smooth but a bit too tight. That's probably intentional, however. The tight focus ring helps with precise focusing, especially wide open. If you test one, I'd be interested in how it performs for you especially in comparison to the Thypoch, a lens I also considered. As if I really need another 50mm lens.
Of course you do!


We have a thread for the TTArtisans 50/1.4, feel free to post examples from the Z-Mount version on it.
 
I read an online review of the Thypoch 50/1.4 in which the reviewer states that the polishing/grinding of the ASPH is better than the TTArtisans 50/1.4- no "onion ring bokeh". I just went through my own shots, 1:1 pixel peeping- did not see any with the M240 on the TTArtisans. I wonder how much sample-to-sample variation there is in these lenses.
 

I wonder how these two lenses compare....
I think you need One More 50...


Sorry Brian, I have way more 50's now than I need. ;o) The TTArtisans one has good reviews and seems to be a good lens but I need to learn photography more than I need to buy lenses. And this one is a bargain even when new, but . . .

FWIW in initial impressions the Simera renders colors cooler than the Elcan. They are both nice. And neither is expensive. There's a lot of bang for the buck with each.
 
I guess I'll just have to force myself to take on another 50. It's a tough job, somebody's gotta do it...

I respect your selfless dedication and great personal sacrifice. It's all for a greater cause.

That lens is really good and the price is great but, sheesh, I have three or four 50's I really like and a lot more that are just wallflowers. These last three PRC charmers, the Eureka, the Elcan and the Simera are all good lenses. I am not smart enough to know which would be better for what little project.

The older honeys, the 1.5 CZJ, the SBS and the Amotal all sing sweetly. That old '57 J8 is really good. The two Canons see no use but are very good. No, it is out-the-door time I need to use. And today here it is "50 Shades of Gray" again. I shoot color on these days and it always looks mono unless you get into some serious pixel-peeping. I'll find some color for Mlle. Simera.

But not off my back porch, egad. Only three or four more months of this. LMAO Better than your weather today.

L1003643rff.JPG
 
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We're getting hit today, driveway has been plowed once already. 300ft driveway, I learned how to walk it with a Leaf Blower to clear paths for the car.
Nina will have none of that today, paid to have it done- for now and into the future. I told the man that provides the service, "Scared you'll find your husband keeled over and frozen while shoveling Snow? Call Joe." Great guy, had to buy a new truck for this winter. I could not do his job.
G1026127-1.jpg

M Monochrom with the TTArt 50/1.4, at F4. Gamma Curve 16-bit DNG, used ART to resize and convert to JPEG. No profile used, as I modify the DNG generated by the camera directly.
 
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We're getting hit today, driveway has been plowed once already. 300ft driveway, I learned how to walk it with a Leaf Blower to clear paths for the car.
Nina will have none of that today, paid to have it done- for now and into the future. I told the man that provides the service, "Scared you'll find your husband keeled over and frozen while shoveling Snow? Call Joe." Great guy, had to buy a new truck for this winter. I could not do his job.
View attachment 4853122

M Monochrom with the TTArt 50/1.4, at F4. Gamma Curve 16-bit DNG, used ART to resize and convert to JPEG. No profile used, as I modify the DNG generated by the camera directly.
Nice. Are you modifying the camera to generate the 16 bit DNG at the time the photo is taken or resampling the 14 bit to 16?
 
Nice. Are you modifying the camera to generate the 16 bit DNG at the time the photo is taken or resampling the 14 bit to 16?
No- I run a Fortran program to read in and generate new DNG files.
If Leica ever makes the Source Code for the firmware available- would be neat to add. Does not require much memory.
 
No- I run a Fortran program to read in and generate new DNG files.
If Leica ever makes the Source Code for the firmware available- would be neat to add. Does not require much memory.
Sounds great. 'Just curious -- and hopefully not too geeky-- so you're taking the original 14 bit file and converting to 16 bit DNG. Does your process use a random number generator or type of dithering to fill in the missing data?
 
Sounds great. 'Just curious -- and hopefully not too geeky-- so you're taking the original 14 bit file and converting to 16 bit DNG. Does your process use a random number generator or type of dithering to fill in the missing data?
I use a look-up-table created using a Gamma Curve.

GAMMA by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

The idea- applying the Gamma Curve using the look-up-table going from 14-bits to 16-bits avoids "collisions", two input values mapping to the same output value that it would if going from 14-bit to 14-bit. The slope would have to exceed 4 on the curve for a collision to happen when mapping to 16-bits. I also set the Black Value of the DNG to one that better matches the CCD in my camera. Leica was throwing away a lot of shadow detail with the value they chose.


The same code also restores under-performing Columns on the CCD. What I found: "Bad Columns" were not dead. They had a DC offset issue. On the theory that the pixel cannot change value so quickly, compute the DC offset for the column looking on each side of it- and add it back.
 
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