helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Thanks for the ADVICE...
I am PURRfectly content with my Paterson Plastic Reels...never a scratch or a problem
DNG
Film Friendly
OK, Since I am all thumbs when it comes to loading plastic, let along SS reels, I Pre-load the reels in day light... that's right, I shoot off like 4 blanks at the beginning, and leave some leader out when I rewind (well, I have the Contax G1 option 3 to leave the leader out on auto rewind).
I then rip the beveled end off, so I know it is an exposed roll..
I pre-load the reel (s), and then put then in the changing bag with the tank, lid and center post... I am done on 5m with rolls all the time.
Give it a try...Oh, I make sure I pre-load the film about 1/2 way around the reel.
I then rip the beveled end off, so I know it is an exposed roll..
I pre-load the reel (s), and then put then in the changing bag with the tank, lid and center post... I am done on 5m with rolls all the time.
Give it a try...Oh, I make sure I pre-load the film about 1/2 way around the reel.
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zauhar
Veteran
My tale of woe -
My Paterson reels have been really difficult to load as late, I think because of high Summer humidity, and not drying as completely as they should. So I bought a new Samigon tank with "fool proof" reels.
The first time I loaded them, never was anything so easy! My problems were over!
Until the next night - I had of course cleaned the new reels and let them dry overnight, but again I don't think they were completely, completely dry. The f--ing film simply would not load, even worse than the Paterson reels! I had to put the loose film in the tank, fetch the Paterson reels, and struggle with them. I managed to get the film loaded and developed on the Paterson reels (which were now REALLY dry owing to lack of use).
What about using a hair dryer (on low of course) to make sure the reels are really, truly, honestly dry?
Randy
My Paterson reels have been really difficult to load as late, I think because of high Summer humidity, and not drying as completely as they should. So I bought a new Samigon tank with "fool proof" reels.
The first time I loaded them, never was anything so easy! My problems were over!
Until the next night - I had of course cleaned the new reels and let them dry overnight, but again I don't think they were completely, completely dry. The f--ing film simply would not load, even worse than the Paterson reels! I had to put the loose film in the tank, fetch the Paterson reels, and struggle with them. I managed to get the film loaded and developed on the Paterson reels (which were now REALLY dry owing to lack of use).
What about using a hair dryer (on low of course) to make sure the reels are really, truly, honestly dry?
Randy
Pete B
Well-known
Are SS reels a standard diameter?
Pete
Pete
FrankS
Registered User
Changing bag + humidity + gummed up plastic reels. There's your problem. Seriously, try ditching the changing bag. (And brush your reels like you've done.)
DNG
Film Friendly
I also trim the leading end into a rounded shape, helps with Paterson Reels, I always make sure no sprocket holes are cut through... so the edge can't hangup either.
robbeiflex
Well-known
I have a plastic Kaiser tank and reels and they are fine. Occasionally some gunk builds up on them and they get sticky, in which case I run them through the dishwasher (just put them in with the dishes). Also, I agree with the above in that if I take too long with my arms in the changing bag then the humidity builds up and they can get sticky. Best to have everything at the ready and make it snappy.
Cheers,
Rob
Cheers,
Rob
Mablo
Well-known
SS reels are marginally easier to work with but the learning curve is frustratingly steep at the beginning.
I've noticed that when using Roger Luo's 100% cotton changing bags I don't get the dreaded sweaty hands syndrome.
If everything else fails place the reel and the film in a bucket filled with water. I've used that trick a few times and it has worked for me.
I've noticed that when using Roger Luo's 100% cotton changing bags I don't get the dreaded sweaty hands syndrome.
If everything else fails place the reel and the film in a bucket filled with water. I've used that trick a few times and it has worked for me.
sanmich
Veteran
Rover,
A changing bag is usually more trouble, but if you insist on it, I suggest that you leave the film leader out at the end of the roll, precut and pre load on the reel before inserting in the bag.
The reels cleanness is crucial. from time to time, I clean them with acetic acid, and once I even tried bleach which seemed excellent. I think both the water and emulsion residues are your enemy. If you can see the grey residue left by the films on the rails, it's time for a serious cleaning.
I ALWAYS have two or three spare reels when I load, and if one is resisting, I don't fight it, I take another one. From time to time, I just throw away those who give me the most trouble.
Good luck
A changing bag is usually more trouble, but if you insist on it, I suggest that you leave the film leader out at the end of the roll, precut and pre load on the reel before inserting in the bag.
The reels cleanness is crucial. from time to time, I clean them with acetic acid, and once I even tried bleach which seemed excellent. I think both the water and emulsion residues are your enemy. If you can see the grey residue left by the films on the rails, it's time for a serious cleaning.
I ALWAYS have two or three spare reels when I load, and if one is resisting, I don't fight it, I take another one. From time to time, I just throw away those who give me the most trouble.
Good luck
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Stainless steel reels are the Way, the Truth and the... um... Dark, at least for 35mm. Actually I prefer plastic for 120, and quite honestly, I don't mind plastic for 35mm either. But reels really do need to be clean and dry, and stainless reels are easier to get or keep that way.
As for Hewes vs. The Rest, yes, I'll sing the praises of Hewes as loud as anyone, but they aren't the only decent reels. No others are as good, but I have several non-Hewes reels that work perfectly adequately.
Cheers,
R.
As for Hewes vs. The Rest, yes, I'll sing the praises of Hewes as loud as anyone, but they aren't the only decent reels. No others are as good, but I have several non-Hewes reels that work perfectly adequately.
Cheers,
R.
maddoc
... likes film again.
In our apt we have around 30 degrees Celsius at midnight and 70 ~ 80 % humidity and using a changing back (I have no chance to build a darkroom space anywhere) means that loading two rolls (135-36) must be finished within max. 5 minutes otherwise the film will get sticky from the humidity and direct contact with sweat.
Under these conditions I avoid plastic reels (Patterson 4 system) for 135 film and use stainless steel reels, recently mostly the cheap ones from LPL. The only "trick" with stainless steel reels is to roll the film onto the reel while it has to be pushed into the rails of the plastic reels.
Under these conditions I avoid plastic reels (Patterson 4 system) for 135 film and use stainless steel reels, recently mostly the cheap ones from LPL. The only "trick" with stainless steel reels is to roll the film onto the reel while it has to be pushed into the rails of the plastic reels.
Well, I am back. The one shop I know of in the area is closed for vacation.
I will order some SS and give that a shot. I have no problem starting the film onto my reels, the binding is happening mid roll. I think I definitely have a residue issue.
I did get to expose a dozen or so exposures, so things seem brighter.
I will order some SS and give that a shot. I have no problem starting the film onto my reels, the binding is happening mid roll. I think I definitely have a residue issue.
I did get to expose a dozen or so exposures, so things seem brighter.
mathomas
Well-known
Ever since ditching (actually, ripping my hands out of, throwing to the floor, and stomping on) my changing bag I have been able to easily load 135 and 120 onto cheap plastic reels in a dark bathroom in a minute or so. The changing bag is now used to block light under the door of the dark room (it's much better for that purpose, it seems).
alistair.o
Well-known
Hi, I used to suffer all the time then read a tip that has worked everytime since - get a soft toothbrush and give the dry reels a good brush inside and out (especially around the bearings (Paterson)) and that should be that.
Vics
Veteran
Plus one for round-filing the Patterson PITA tanks and reels (I used them for years before discovering the joys of SS. Same problems as the OP) AND Plus One for Hewes Reels! I have bought many Nikkor Tanks over the years and I have tried a Kinderman tank, I think. SO easy!I didn't even know it was possible to scratch negatives when loading them onto a stainless steel reel.
I round-filed my System 4 kit due to the pain of loading easy-load reels, and due to the annoying dribble of solutions I kept getting on my hands when trying to invert the tank - and the cramp in the ball of my thumb when I tried twiddling instead. A Kindermann tank and Hewes reels made the whole process so much easier, and left far fewer dents in the walls from frustration-propelled equipment.
Ronald M
Veteran
Nikor or Hewes reels.
With my 50 year old Nikkors, I have learned to place them on the counter with the spirals clockwise and the onside one ending at 7 o`clock. Pick up and keep the top towards yourself and the film goes in the top.
If the spirals are anti clockwise, the film WILL NOT LOAD AND YOU WILL WRINKE THE EDGES. One you do this, load the other end properly and hope the wrinkles load on the outside wraps .
After each wrap or two, I do a little push pull with the remaining film to make sure the wraps are loose. If not, the wraps are touching and you will get trouble.
With my 50 year old Nikkors, I have learned to place them on the counter with the spirals clockwise and the onside one ending at 7 o`clock. Pick up and keep the top towards yourself and the film goes in the top.
If the spirals are anti clockwise, the film WILL NOT LOAD AND YOU WILL WRINKE THE EDGES. One you do this, load the other end properly and hope the wrinkles load on the outside wraps .
After each wrap or two, I do a little push pull with the remaining film to make sure the wraps are loose. If not, the wraps are touching and you will get trouble.
Ronald M
Veteran
Brooks or cheap brands are worthless. Sell for scrap metal.
Yes all are standard except for some made for extra long rolls like 250 foot or movie film.
Yes all are standard except for some made for extra long rolls like 250 foot or movie film.
I just ordered a couple tanks and SS reels to use along with my Paterson stuff. I needed a thermometer too so this just gave me an excuse.
I processed the three rolls I had loaded and will give another three a try tomorrow morning. The balance can wait for the SS when it arrives.
I processed the three rolls I had loaded and will give another three a try tomorrow morning. The balance can wait for the SS when it arrives.
I did go Hewes by the way.
Chris101
summicronia
I ABSOLUTELY cannot load film onto plastic reels - it binds, rips folds and never, ever goes all the way in. On the other hand, I rarely have a problem with cheap stainless reels*. But the secret is patience. Friends of mine who (successfully) use plastic reels suggest that you dry them with a hair blow dryer just before use, even if they do not appear damp.
* Printz and Nikor. The secret is to stuff the end into the center of the reel, and hold it in place with a finger until you have gone all the way around. Forget about that clip thing - I remove them from my reels (the absence of the clip is the only advantage to the expensive Hewes reels as far as I can tell.) Then, every other revolution or so, push the film into the rails. If it doesn't go, back up a rev, and do it again. This will prevent 'lane crossing' and getting those undeveloped blobs that are an indication of spooling too fast.
* Printz and Nikor. The secret is to stuff the end into the center of the reel, and hold it in place with a finger until you have gone all the way around. Forget about that clip thing - I remove them from my reels (the absence of the clip is the only advantage to the expensive Hewes reels as far as I can tell.) Then, every other revolution or so, push the film into the rails. If it doesn't go, back up a rev, and do it again. This will prevent 'lane crossing' and getting those undeveloped blobs that are an indication of spooling too fast.