If you use a medium syringe (one from the pet shop perhaps, no needle needed) to draw up just enough HC-110, etc, as needed you'll find it easy to mix just what's needed every time. Just don't mix up the stock solution and keep the bottle in a cool place with the lid on tight.
Consider buying some bulk film and reusable cassettes and load your own. You don't need a loader, arms reach will do, but you must have a clean, light tight room to do this in. Keep your long rolls and store bought film in the fridge until a few hours before it's needed. Look around here and you'll find threads how to do all this stuff.
I've use the Canon F1, of one sort or the others, for a go-everywhere camera for many years and once you're use to it, it's no biggie, but then, I don't know your circumstances so what works for me might be a miss for you.
If you have or can get, a Canon Macro 50 as a prime carry lens, you may just find yourself taking lots more pics as the lens is fantastic for small stuff all around you and not bad as a normal in average/good light. What lenses do you have now?
If you have one, carry and learn to use a monopod.
Don't buy lots of gadgets, most aren't needed and divert your attention.
Use a lens hood all the time, the one exception being the Canon Macro 50, it's not needed, and keep a sacrificial UV or (light yellow or light yellow-green filter with b&w film) on your other lenses to take the shock of drops. A filter is a lot cheaper to replace than a lens, even a free one.
Filters will also keep you from cleaning your lenses, something some photographers do way too much of. Use a rubber bulb to blow dust off and leave it at that. Do get lens tissue, don't use shirts or bandanas.
Never put lens cleaning fluid on glass, only a drop on lens tissue if needed at all.
Everything I've written about cleaning and not cleaning a lens goes double for the camera glass. Don't touch the mirror and never spray canned air on it! Buy a spare battery and keep it with the camera.
Likewise keep the camera manual with the bag so it's there when needed.
Don't store lenses in bags, cases or airless drawers for mold to grow on glass, and don't use a moldy zoom lens unless you want to put spores in all your lenses. Zooms act like bike pumps as they are pulled to and fro and force spores inside your camera.
Use one b&w film only for the first year, I suggest Tri-X in the form of the less expensive Arista 400 Premium, it's the same film, at 200 iso with one developer, HC-110 dil. H, just to see what things look like in b&w.
Don't bother with stop bath and use the Ilford fill, agitate and dump method for washing, it'll do the job properly and save on water cost.
I like distilled water for chem. and keep gallons of tap along side for washing film, it's all the same temp. to start and finish with.
Do use Photoflo, you don't need hypoclear for film and hang the wet negs in the shower to dry, AFTER you've run the shower with hot water to settle any dust in the bathroom.
DON'T store Photoflo solution, it'll grow critters and you'll wreck your film.
Bankers clips will do for weighing down the loose end of the film to control curling. Wood cloths pins work for hanging, plastic ones don't.
A small Durst enlarger will get you started in the darkroom, it stores well, is cheap and give good results with a decent lens.
If you can't afford trays, and can make do with 6x6 inch prints or so for awhile, use large GladWare for developing and storing chemistry.
Really clean Ragu plastic jar, the ones with handles, will do for storing chemicals, except most developers Saran wrap between the lid and fluid and '40s' sized brown beer bottles work well, so do wine bottles.
If you print your own negs, use the same paper you want to a final print on, to contact print your negatives and develop all prints to completion in paper developer. That way you'll better see what a full sized print will look like value wise.
Use a normal lens for a loupe and a 8x10 piece of plate glass, or there around, for a contact printer.
Prop the glass plate up, put a piece of white paper beneath it and direct a low watt light on it and you've got a light 'box'.
I recommend Ansco 130 as a paper developer, it will keep in an open tray for weeks, even months, forgo stop bath again and use TF-4 fix for film and paper, both will save you money and give top-of-the-line results.
If you use fiber base paper, get some Kodak selenium toner and even when it's exhausted, don't pitch the solution, add more toner and distilled water to bring it back to volume and strength.
Number the paired contact sheet and negative sleeve at the same time, every-time and don't lay negatives on poodles, they have no sense of humor.
There's lots more these guys and gals can share but that my lot, probably said better already by others as I've written this, LOL.
Good luck and post often and with pics.
