menos
Veteran
I have picked up a nice user M3 on a trip back in Germany.
I like the camera a lot - it is a 1.000.000 SS with quickloading kit already installed and a very nice finder.
Only issue, I experience so far is, that the viewfinder window is scratched and seriously flares, when light hits in the right angle between my face and the camera onto the eyepiece :bang:
I would like, to exchange the eyepiece for a pristine one and think about cleaning the camera's RF and RF windows in the process.
Why clean the RF? I have the slight idea, that the view through my M3 is not just dim, as it should be, compared to modern Ms, but that it looks somewhat slightly hazy (might be, that I have no really clean comparison M3 at hand).
Here are a few experienced people, having repainted/ taken apart and assembled M3 bodies already.
What are the do's and don'ts of opening the M3 top?
Where is the best source for those eyepieces (DAG?)?
Which procedures do you knowledgable people follow, for a cleaning of the viewfinder?
I like the camera a lot - it is a 1.000.000 SS with quickloading kit already installed and a very nice finder.
Only issue, I experience so far is, that the viewfinder window is scratched and seriously flares, when light hits in the right angle between my face and the camera onto the eyepiece :bang:
I would like, to exchange the eyepiece for a pristine one and think about cleaning the camera's RF and RF windows in the process.
Why clean the RF? I have the slight idea, that the view through my M3 is not just dim, as it should be, compared to modern Ms, but that it looks somewhat slightly hazy (might be, that I have no really clean comparison M3 at hand).
Here are a few experienced people, having repainted/ taken apart and assembled M3 bodies already.
What are the do's and don'ts of opening the M3 top?
Where is the best source for those eyepieces (DAG?)?
Which procedures do you knowledgable people follow, for a cleaning of the viewfinder?
peterm1
Veteran
There were videos on youtuve about removing the top cover from an M6 and an M4P. They are similar but the earlier camera has an extra screw located at 12.00 o'clock in the lens mount (as does the M3). I have not had a look for a while but there have also been some threads about it.
One here http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104881
If you cannot find the video I may still have it somewhere - but did have a PC crash which might also have lost it.
One here http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104881
If you cannot find the video I may still have it somewhere - but did have a PC crash which might also have lost it.
philosomatographer
Well-known
Hi,
I am not a professional at all, but I recently removed the top cover of my M3 to align the rangefinder and clean it out. If you don't have a set of clamps specifically made for disassembling an M3 (I bought a cheap set form China on eBay) I'd say you shouldn't even attempt this - you'll damage it for sure.
However, with the correct set of clamps to remove all the retaining rings around everything (rewind knob, shutter release, film wind, flash plugs, etc etc) it was quite simple - just keep track of all the bits you remove - and don't force anything.
I cleaned out my viewfinder lenses from the inside, and blew out some dust out of the rangefinder, and it's lovely crystal clear now. Almost as crystal clear as an OM-3Ti finder now
I am not a professional at all, but I recently removed the top cover of my M3 to align the rangefinder and clean it out. If you don't have a set of clamps specifically made for disassembling an M3 (I bought a cheap set form China on eBay) I'd say you shouldn't even attempt this - you'll damage it for sure.
However, with the correct set of clamps to remove all the retaining rings around everything (rewind knob, shutter release, film wind, flash plugs, etc etc) it was quite simple - just keep track of all the bits you remove - and don't force anything.
I cleaned out my viewfinder lenses from the inside, and blew out some dust out of the rangefinder, and it's lovely crystal clear now. Almost as crystal clear as an OM-3Ti finder now
peterm1
Veteran
Hi,
I am not a professional at all, but I recently removed the top cover of my M3 to align the rangefinder and clean it out. If you don't have a set of clamps specifically made for disassembling an M3 (I bought a cheap set form China on eBay) I'd say you shouldn't even attempt this - you'll damage it for sure.
However, with the correct set of clamps to remove all the retaining rings around everything (rewind knob, shutter release, film wind, flash plugs, etc etc) it was quite simple - just keep track of all the bits you remove - and don't force anything.
I cleaned out my viewfinder lenses from the inside, and blew out some dust out of the rangefinder, and it's lovely crystal clear now. Almost as crystal clear as an OM-3Ti finder now
Yes I forgot to say in the threads linked in my psot there is a discussion about the clamps and where to buy them.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Prisms can desilver over time, Canada balsam turns yellow. Greatly influenced by use, time, climate, humidity, etc.
It's a crap shoot, I'm saying...
Do give it a try with the proper tools, but keep the above in mind! Good luck!
It's a crap shoot, I'm saying...
Do give it a try with the proper tools, but keep the above in mind! Good luck!
philosomatographer
Well-known
In the OP's case, it seems probably a little more benign - it might simply be the glass at the eyepiece, or viewfinder front. Mine "looked" clean from the outside, but it made a world of difference cleaning them out from the inside. If the circular eyepiece really is scratched, it should be simple enough to find a replacement / have one made (by an optician / optometrist / etc).
To the OP: Watch that film advance lever - it's a bit tricky to install it back in the same position you took it off of, because of the spring loading. Mine's not quite "the same" than what it was before
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
True it's likely more benign, but it might not be as positive a change as the earlier poster stated. Sometimes it's only a small improvement. Just saying...
menos
Veteran
Ahh - thanks a lot guys ;-)
I am hoping too, that it's mostly the windows, that will lead to an improvement after cleaning.
As it is now (especially with the flary, scratched eye piece, this M3 is not to be used during the night - more difficult to focus, than my old M6!
Will look out for the tools for the eye piece and flash sync connectors now.
I am hoping too, that it's mostly the windows, that will lead to an improvement after cleaning.
As it is now (especially with the flary, scratched eye piece, this M3 is not to be used during the night - more difficult to focus, than my old M6!
Will look out for the tools for the eye piece and flash sync connectors now.
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
Another source for the retaining ring tools (flexiclamps) is Micro-Tools. I think the set for the M3 is $50, give or take. Absolutely worth it.
In addition, you'll need a tool for the rewind button (you can improvise there but you'll likely damage the red paint dots) and another for the collar underneath the advance lever.
In addition, you'll need a tool for the rewind button (you can improvise there but you'll likely damage the red paint dots) and another for the collar underneath the advance lever.
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Sparrow
Veteran
You need this lot ...
... but try for some crema on the coffee
... but try for some crema on the coffee
Sparrow
Veteran
PS ... a rubber pad is good for the winder post
nobbylon
Veteran
If the eyepiece hasn't been screwed on too tight it can be removed using a piece of bicycle innertube. get a piece of wood pole like curtain pole and fit a piece of inner tube around one end with a zip tie. Push firmly but not too firm! and turn. I've done a couple like this before I had flexi clamps. Tip. don't polish the front viewfinder glass too much as it's coated and it comes off if you are too ambitious.
If you do take the top off and want to remove the windows you will most likely find them glued in with either the original balsam glue or a later replacement. I find the easiest way to soften it to allow removal of the central clip is to use tiny amounts of zippo fluid. If that doesn't soften it use tiny amounts of nail varnish remover. Once the eyepiece is removed you can insert a fine blade driver through the hole and with the blade between the inner top plate and the clip twist very gently until it moves. Using too much pressure will dent the top plate. With m2's and 4's great care is needed as the jagged frame line illumination window is plastic and is very brittle on the edges.
Personally I wouldn't put anything smaller than my elbow into the rangefinder mech for cleaning. The frames are fragile and tiny. Use a can of compressed air unless you know what you are doing. I use air to clean mine.
If you do take the top off and want to remove the windows you will most likely find them glued in with either the original balsam glue or a later replacement. I find the easiest way to soften it to allow removal of the central clip is to use tiny amounts of zippo fluid. If that doesn't soften it use tiny amounts of nail varnish remover. Once the eyepiece is removed you can insert a fine blade driver through the hole and with the blade between the inner top plate and the clip twist very gently until it moves. Using too much pressure will dent the top plate. With m2's and 4's great care is needed as the jagged frame line illumination window is plastic and is very brittle on the edges.
Personally I wouldn't put anything smaller than my elbow into the rangefinder mech for cleaning. The frames are fragile and tiny. Use a can of compressed air unless you know what you are doing. I use air to clean mine.
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batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
Priceless, Stewart! I find moderate amounts of beer can stand in for coffee in a pinch, but the Alka-Seltzer is mandatory!You need this lot ...
... but try for some crema on the coffee
do yourself a huge favor.
forget about doing it yourself and take it to a good repair shop.
Stephen
hlockwood
Well-known
peterm1
Veteran
While some here are negative about having a go at cleaning the M3 yourself, I would say that if you are organised (so you keep track of both the order of disassembly and the location of each little component), patient (so as not to get aggravated and force things when things inevitably are more difficult than they look - like stuck screws) and have a few basic mechanical skills, basic cleaning is entirely "do-able".
And it can even be fun. Certainly you get a sense of achievement once its done. But my experience is that even the most basic task can suddenly be difficult unless you know what you are doing.
Getting into the top cover for a cleaning is OK, but I would draw the line here though and am not inclined to try to fiddle with its "guts."
If you are lacking in any of these departments then like the other posts say - send it to be CLA'd. I have spoken to a few camera techs and all tell me that it is quite common for someone to give them a disassembled camera having found that it has all gotten too hard to complete. In general they hate this as it makes their job harder.
And it can even be fun. Certainly you get a sense of achievement once its done. But my experience is that even the most basic task can suddenly be difficult unless you know what you are doing.
Getting into the top cover for a cleaning is OK, but I would draw the line here though and am not inclined to try to fiddle with its "guts."
If you are lacking in any of these departments then like the other posts say - send it to be CLA'd. I have spoken to a few camera techs and all tell me that it is quite common for someone to give them a disassembled camera having found that it has all gotten too hard to complete. In general they hate this as it makes their job harder.
menos
Veteran
Thanks for the word Peter.
I have worked in jobs, having to use fine finger skills, since I have been in my early teenage years.
I have taken apart, cleaned and adjusted several lenses over the last years and maintain rangefinder settings on all my RF cameras, since I started to use RF cameras.
Taking off a housing for a standard cleaning of RF windows really doesn't sound like a challenge.
I will see, how I will proceed further from there, once the RF is laid out in front of me.
There has been a paranoia on DIY work on mechanical cameras since a long time - for a reason, as there are indeed things left for a knowledgable specialist.
One has to know and follow certain procedures and use the right tools, parts and consumables, to do a proper job without track marks and with correct treatment.
Because of this very last point, I actually started, to do lens jobs myself, as I prefer, to not have someone ruin a very expensive lens by scratching it up with a wrench and a hammed fist.
Next to a big interest in all things mechanical and my experience with mechanical devices, there is the issue of time and logistical problems.
Would a Don Goldberg, Sherry Krauter or Youxin Ye have a shop in Shanghai, I happily would carry my stuff to them (missing on the enjoyment of doing the work myself), but they don't.
A nice example is a beautiful, almost new looking Canadian 35 Summilux pre ASPH.
It sits in storage in my working room, waiting for me, getting an hour with a conventional milling machine of a supplier of mine.
I could very well just use a file and modify the rear element shroud with a quick fix, drab it in matte paint and reassemble, to use it.
I could also just give the small, delicate shroud to the supplier and have one of his workers do the job after a drawing.
…but I rather not - I prefer, to operate the machine myself, modify the shroud myself, do a proper paint job on the machined surfaces myself, clean, lubricate and adjust the lens myself.
Some people get drunk on parties every week, some people collect silver coins, some tune cars, I find a wonderful relaxing counterweight to my main profession in doing this.
I have worked in jobs, having to use fine finger skills, since I have been in my early teenage years.
I have taken apart, cleaned and adjusted several lenses over the last years and maintain rangefinder settings on all my RF cameras, since I started to use RF cameras.
Taking off a housing for a standard cleaning of RF windows really doesn't sound like a challenge.
I will see, how I will proceed further from there, once the RF is laid out in front of me.
There has been a paranoia on DIY work on mechanical cameras since a long time - for a reason, as there are indeed things left for a knowledgable specialist.
One has to know and follow certain procedures and use the right tools, parts and consumables, to do a proper job without track marks and with correct treatment.
Because of this very last point, I actually started, to do lens jobs myself, as I prefer, to not have someone ruin a very expensive lens by scratching it up with a wrench and a hammed fist.
Next to a big interest in all things mechanical and my experience with mechanical devices, there is the issue of time and logistical problems.
Would a Don Goldberg, Sherry Krauter or Youxin Ye have a shop in Shanghai, I happily would carry my stuff to them (missing on the enjoyment of doing the work myself), but they don't.
A nice example is a beautiful, almost new looking Canadian 35 Summilux pre ASPH.
It sits in storage in my working room, waiting for me, getting an hour with a conventional milling machine of a supplier of mine.
I could very well just use a file and modify the rear element shroud with a quick fix, drab it in matte paint and reassemble, to use it.
I could also just give the small, delicate shroud to the supplier and have one of his workers do the job after a drawing.
…but I rather not - I prefer, to operate the machine myself, modify the shroud myself, do a proper paint job on the machined surfaces myself, clean, lubricate and adjust the lens myself.
Some people get drunk on parties every week, some people collect silver coins, some tune cars, I find a wonderful relaxing counterweight to my main profession in doing this.