tips on olympus trip
- Thread starter ninhsavestheday
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ninhsavestheday
Newbie
how's this picture? they're not like the pictures i see on the forum. please critique.
SHOT with Fujifilm Superia 400
SHOT with Fujifilm Superia 400
Rodchenko
Olympian
Firstly, no, it's not normal. The Trip has a decent meter and a good lens, if all is working well.
I'm not sure what's happened there.
I'm not sure what's happened there.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Lens elements hazed over or scratched, and you need to adjust the ISO setting for the age of the meter. Those are my guesses. And your second photo doesn't show in the message.
PF
PF
Jani_from_Finland
Well-known
Looks like pretty dirty lens, oily or something.
ninhsavestheday
Newbie
wiped it
wiped it
i already wiped it with a lens cloth. what else can i do to ensure that the lens is clean. its hard to tell because the lens is so small.
wiped it
i already wiped it with a lens cloth. what else can i do to ensure that the lens is clean. its hard to tell because the lens is so small.
skibeerr
Well-known
Looks like harsh noon sun causing flare from the reflexion on the car.
Do other photo's have the same problem?
Do other photo's have the same problem?
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Dirty/oily,scratched or uncoated lens? Over-exposure due to meter cell age? Or, as unlikely as it sounds, a bad anti-halation layer on the film?
ninhsavestheday
Newbie
from flickr
from flickr
here are some more pictures on my flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ninhsavestheday/sets/72157635554564852/
from flickr
here are some more pictures on my flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ninhsavestheday/sets/72157635554564852/
farlymac
PF McFarland
Ninh, the haze would be on the inside of the lens, which could be any one of or a combination of dirt, oil, and fungus. Lens element separation can also cause the flaring too if it's bad enough.
You have to look through the lens with the shutter on B to see any faults, or shine a light on it with the shutter closed to be able to tell if it's in a front group of elements, or a back group (this doesn't help with a rear shutter mount lens).
Scratches can also be hard to see, unless you look at the front element with a magnifying lens, and at an angle. One or two won't hurt, but many will degrade the image greatly, like in the photo below.
Enter by br1078phot, on Flickr
And this is the culprit.
P1080404_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Aggressive cleaning of a very dirty lens can be highly damaging.
PF
You have to look through the lens with the shutter on B to see any faults, or shine a light on it with the shutter closed to be able to tell if it's in a front group of elements, or a back group (this doesn't help with a rear shutter mount lens).
Scratches can also be hard to see, unless you look at the front element with a magnifying lens, and at an angle. One or two won't hurt, but many will degrade the image greatly, like in the photo below.
Enter by br1078phot, on Flickr
And this is the culprit.
P1080404_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Aggressive cleaning of a very dirty lens can be highly damaging.
PF
konicaman
konicaman
What the others said. Just wanted to add, that the lens might be great for romantic portraits or for foggy landscapes.
BTW - that car, is it a Camaro, Ranchero, or? Looks slightly smaller and with a more angled nose than the Ranchero 500 my dad drove when I was a teenager.
BTW - that car, is it a Camaro, Ranchero, or? Looks slightly smaller and with a more angled nose than the Ranchero 500 my dad drove when I was a teenager.
Penny Lane
Hopelessly Citrophile
farlymac
PF McFarland
farlymac
PF McFarland
Well, now I know where the design for the aperture in the XA came from.
Thanks for the great link.
PF
