steverett
Anthopomorphized Camera
I wonder how Ilford Delta 100 would look in Rodinal. I might just try that, when the weather gets nice enough to get me out shooting.
Here's an example:

More in this album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/steverett/albums/72157601571962912
brbo
Well-known
Sid836
Well-known
I have been reading that Rodinal didn't go well with t grain films. But these photos prove otherwise. Wonderful results! What dilution would you recommend for the FP4 plus?
Kenj8246
Well-known
I've just purchased a box of FP4+ in 4X5. I plan on STARTING with Ilford's recommendation of EI125, 1:50 for 15 min @ 68 degrees. Then go from there.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I've been on my Ipad which is impossible to work with, but now I'm real again. That is a great image, I forgot what you said in the post, BUT GREAT IMAGE.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I've just purchased a box of FP4+ in 4X5. I plan on STARTING with Ilford's recommendation of EI125, 1:50 for 15 min @ 68 degrees. Then go from there.
In my experience 15 minutes is longer than necessary; I stick to 11 minutes max unless I've exposed at a higher EI.
But since you are using sheet film it will be relatively easy to dial it in. Make a few identical exposures and develop one sheet at 11 with reduced agitation (30 sec to start, then gentle agitation every 3 minutes) and see what you get. If you end up with an optimal negative, then no more testing is required unless you want to see the effects of different agitation regimens. Or you could try Rodinal 1:25 (5-6 minutes) and 1:100 (~19 minutes) and compare.
Just my deux centimes.
Kenj8246
Well-known
I've been on my Ipad which is impossible to work with, but now I'm real again. That is a great image, I forgot what you said in the post, BUT GREAT IMAGE.
Thanks a lot, John, much appreciated. I just wish there was a bunch of old planes closer to College Station.
Kenj8246
Well-known
In my experience 15 minutes is longer than necessary; I stick to 11 minutes max unless I've exposed at a higher EI.
But since you are using sheet film it will be relatively easy to dial it in. Make a few identical exposures and develop one sheet at 11 with reduced agitation (30 sec to start, then gentle agitation every 3 minutes) and see what you get. If you end up with an optimal negative, then no more testing is required unless you want to see the effects of different agitation regimens. Or you could try Rodinal 1:25 (5-6 minutes) and 1:100 (~19 minutes) and compare.
Just my deux centimes.
Thanks for the tips, Earl. Even as relatively inexpensive as Ilford is compared to Kodak, I'll want to get it right sooner than later.
Kenny
rwintle
Scientist by day
Hm. I thought I'd tried some T-Max 100 in Adonal but apparently not. 
Have done T-Max 400 (120 format) in Adonal 1+50, 11 mins. at 19C (details on Filmdev in link from photo). Was quite happy with the results although I suspect I could have done better on the scan. More photos in the same Flickr set as this one.

Kingston Mills, Ontario by Richard Wintle, on Flickr
Of the other films mentioned above, I *really* liked FP4+, this time in Adonal 1+25, 10 min. at 19C. I'm pretty calm with agitation in general (3x inversions each minute, something like that).

Totem Poles, Stanley Park, Vancouver by Richard Wintle, on Flickr
Have done T-Max 400 (120 format) in Adonal 1+50, 11 mins. at 19C (details on Filmdev in link from photo). Was quite happy with the results although I suspect I could have done better on the scan. More photos in the same Flickr set as this one.

Kingston Mills, Ontario by Richard Wintle, on Flickr
Of the other films mentioned above, I *really* liked FP4+, this time in Adonal 1+25, 10 min. at 19C. I'm pretty calm with agitation in general (3x inversions each minute, something like that).

Totem Poles, Stanley Park, Vancouver by Richard Wintle, on Flickr
Kenj8246
Well-known
Like the totems, rwintle. The lights are light and the darks are dark and they're nice and crisp.
rwintle
Scientist by day
Like the totems, rwintle. The lights are light and the darks are dark and they're nice and crisp.
Thank you.
I am still finding my way with developing at home. This roll was probably the best I've done. I think it's mostly down to the film itself and some good luck with choice of dev time more than any skill on my part.
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
^^ "Rwindle", great shots , the fact that I live in Burnaby now and spent 35 years around the Ottawa area makes these pics quite relevant to me. Thanks for posting. Peter
teddy
Jose Morales
Man, awesome blacks and shadows! Somewhere I read that TMax 100 is not recommended with Rodinal - so now I will stand develop TMax 100 in Rodinal 1:100 @ 1 hour and hope for slightly lower contrast, more tonality then bump up the contrast in Lightroom!!!
Kenj8246
Well-known
BTW, nothing to do with either Tmax or Rodinal per se, but I'll give a plug to the Reciprocity Timer App on these images. Some of these hangars are quite dark and that app is very handy. Just FYI.
gnome chompski
Member
I dont mean this as an insult, but its almost digital in it's grain (or lack thereof), but still has that dimensional depth that film gives. Very nice results.
briansilcox
Established
Kenny, What format on the Wildcat image?
Kenj8246
Well-known
I dont mean this as an insult, but its almost digital in it's grain (or lack thereof), but still has that dimensional depth that film gives. Very nice results.
Done correctly--something I don't always manage--a 4X5 negative can still show more resolution than just about any digital image. I got lucky here, thanks.
Kenny, What format on the Wildcat image?
4X5 Tmax 100, Brian.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
One would think that with 4x5 one would go for ISO 400, since the size of the negative gives so much advantage. But NO, I always want EVEN MORE! and opt for the slower film!
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