Tmax 100: Pushable ?

R

ruben

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I would like to use several rolls I have at ISO 200, and I will be not bothering anyone with what may be a half silly question, but once ago when pulling tmax to ISO 50, the film reacted quite unfriendly.

So if any of you had pushed Tmax 100, kindly inform me if it behaves or if there are any specific problems in the process.

Thanks,
Ruben
 
This is for the NEW Tmax 100. I don't know what you have.

I recently acquired 15 rolls of 120 Tmax 100. All I know is what I've read so far from Kodak and the directions on the bag of D-76 powder. According to Kodak's tech. information, the new film can be exposed at 100 or 200 with the identical developing time and temp. Go figure. Doesn't sound right to me. YMMV.

Give it a whirl. Let us know what happens.
 
You can push it, but it will lead to little separation in the shadows and generally little shadow detail. As I was recently discussing with someone, the long toe of TMX is at the root of this. In fact a little overexposure is usually good. I rate it at EI 64 after testing it with my developer combo (HC110B).

-A
 
venchka said:
............. According to Kodak's tech. information, the new film can be exposed at 100 or 200 with the identical developing time and temp. Go figure. Doesn't sound right to me. YMMV............

Hi Venchka,
This is not new at Kodak's tech info, and it is absolute crap. Beware.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
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sleepyhead said:
Hi Ruben

It's definitely pushable to 200 ASA. I've developed it in TMAX Professional developer 1:4 (standard dilution) for 10' at 20C with very good results.

See this photo as an example:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/58/228179689_5749033bd6.jpg

Good luck


Hi Yaron,

It will be of great help to me if you calculate the additional time you give, in percentage, compared to the time you give when shot as ISO 100.

Thank you
Ruben
 
Anupam Basu said:
You can push it, but it will lead to little separation in the shadows and generally little shadow detail. As I was recently discussing with someone, the long toe of TMX is at the root of this. In fact a little overexposure is usually good. I rate it at EI 64 after testing it with my developer combo (HC110B).

-A


Hi Anupam,

Thank you for the info, I just thought that what will suffer is the highlights rather than the shadows. Anyway I have Tmax Dev only.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
ruben said:
Hi Anupam,

Thank you for the info, I just thought that what will suffer is the highlights rather than the shadows. Anyway I have Tmax Dev only.

When you are pushing, you are underexposing and overdeveloping, right? Low highlight densities can be increased by increasing development time, but low shadow densities can't. That is why when you test a film for Zone I, development time doesn't really matter - increasing it doesn't really affect Zone i densities.

You will of course get higher contrast and a steeper curve. Tmax developer should be great with the film. In fact HC110 is not really the best solution but I standardize all my films with it.

-A
 
ruben said:
Hi Yaron,

It will be of great help to me if you calculate the additional time you give, in percentage, compared to the time you give when shot as ISO 100.

Thank you
Ruben


Hi Ruben

Kodak recommends 7.5 minutes at 20C for ASA 100. So 10 minutes divided by 7.5 minutes means 33% extra development. 'Hope this helps.
 
Well, according to my way of processing, I always found myself developing at the exact time recommended by Ilford chemicals, while with Tmax developer my times are always shorter, sometimes nearing two thirds and even less from what they "recommend." The paradox even increases, since my single method of agitation is the one recomended for Tmax films: 5 seconds each 30 seconds....

Accordingly, Kodak's cooking recommendation for 100 will suit my way for 200.

Any way, due to a doubt regarding my Oly Rc i will have to run a test, and I will take the opportunity to process pieces of the same film at different times. The whole film will carry the same image, at the same exposure. Finnally I have an excuse for a film test.

But I bet the best time will be the recommended for 100/200, as i know that the real time for 100 is shorter.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
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the reason Kodak recommends the same dev times for 200 as for 100 with Tmax100 is because the film has some latitude. Yes, you might lose some infitesimal shadow detail, but developing longer costs you more in lost highlights, IMHO. Consider that the longer you let the film sit in the developer, the more of the highlights develop to black on the negative. If you don't mind losing more highlight detail than you gain shadow detail, dev for longer with 200 IE. If you want to keep as much detail in your highlights as possible, don't.

To start with, shooting 100 at 200EI just underexposes the film by one stop, which isn't much in reality. And often, when dealing with a scene with bright light and dark shadow, something has to give anyway. I try to expose for the details I want to keep, i.e. usually shadows, and don't worry about highlights unless they are the specific detail I wish to preserve.

It's all personal taste anyway. There is nothing that says a technically perfect average exposure is the best one for every image. Yes, we all know the Zone system is great for learning how to capture as much information as possible on the negative, but I'm purposely cutting information out of the scene every time I frame the subject, and even more when I crop. Why would I carefully frame to capture only the portion of the scene I wish and yet insist on exposing to capture the most data rather than just the light I want?
 
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