jawarden
Well-known
I've shot both films and developed at the recommended times and also next highest speed. Next highest speed has always worked better for me and apparently many others. I don't think this is silly or a falsehood. But if you like the recommended times that's cool, and I won't call your way "false".
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Developing for the higher speed just increases contrast and grain. The recommendation to do so comes from a fundamental misunderstanding of how Tmax 3200 and Delta 3200 work.
Before Tmax 3200 came out (it was the first of them to be introduced nearly 30 years ago), the only way to shoot at 3200 or 1600 was the push process a 400 speed film. Tri-X was the usual favorite for that. Pushed Tri-X is very contrasty and grainy.
Tmax 3200 changed all that (and Delta 3200 works similarly to Tmax 3200). It is also a film that requires push processing. The base speed is around 1000, but at that speed it is a very low contrast film. Pushed to 1600 or 3200, contrast becomes normal and it retains a lot more shadow and highlight detail than a pushed 400 speed film does. In other words, Tmax/Delta 3200 shot at 1600 or 3200 and developed for the recommended times for the speed gives contrast similar to a normal black and white film.
The problem is a lot of people were so used to the high-contrast look of pushed Tri-X that they thought Tmax 3200 was flawed, when in fact it is a far better film for high speed shooting. Wanting too much contrast, they recommended overdeveloping it.
If you really want that pushed Tri-X look, buy Tri-X and push it; its cheaper than Tmax 3200 and Delta 3200.
Larry Cloetta
Veteran
^^^^^Thanks, Chris.
PRJ
Another Day in Paradise
Jeez dude, stop it. You are cracking me up!
I am not even going to bother answering.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
jawarden
Well-known
I didn't mention Tri-X. It's a good film. Sometimes I use it.
I don't have a fundamental misunderstanding of how fast films work.
If I'm exposing a roll of film hand held in a lower light and lower contrast environment, I'll use a fast film like P3200 or Delta 3200, expose at 1600 or so and extend development to control contrast on the negative, making it easier to print later.
If I'm exposing a roll of film hand held in a normal light and normal contrast environment, I'll use a medium speed film, give it normal exposure and normal development to control contrast on the negative, making it easier to print later.
If I'm exposing a roll of film hand held in a higher light and higher contrast environment, I'll use a slow film, give it extra exposure and reduce development to control contrast on the negative, making it easier to print later.
It's a good idea to start with the manufacturer's recommendation for developing film as a starting point for your individual needs. That includes P3200 and Delta3200.
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
Not gonna argue w/ you but some people do like the over developing. Many of the Japanese greats made their names with it in Provoke. It's not my bag, and I feel those guys knew exactly what they were doing before.
