TMAX 400 developer help.

[Guest]

Hello, I need some advice on developing this film. i have never used it before but have a few exposed rolls.
I use Rodinal, Adox for my Acros film development and was wondering if i could use that. I even have some Ilford Perceptol that i could use.
So if any of the two above can be used could someone give me some instructions.
Otherwise what do i need to get for the job.
Cheers,
James.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

All developers will develop it, but best ones for TMY are TMax Developer and Ilford's Microphen (powder) / Ilfotec DD-X (liquid). With those you can go to 1600 and even 3200 with enough quality for wet printing, not only scanning.
Cheers,
Juan

 

[Roger Hicks]

Works beautifully in DD-X: I've just developed quite a few rolls. But as Juan said, it works very well in almost anything.

Cheers,

R.

 

[f16sunshine]

You can use Rodinal if you have it. Stronger ratios give cleaner results. Try 1:25 for @ 20c for 6 mins.
I usually use Tmax developer at 1:4 mixing for normal exposure. The times are short at 20c... 6.5-7mins.
Tmax Dev is re-usable for several rolls. I usually mix it in a 1/2gallon Brown plastic jug.
Developing 10 rolls with a 1:4 mix is not out of the question.
It's great for traditional grained films. I like it a lot for HP5 and Tri-X.

Check out Massive Developing chart for Developer and film info (type/iso/time/temp).

 

[FrozenInTime]

I use perceptol 1+1 all the time with Tmax400 with the box times.
It works very well especially in contrasty light but you need to expose at ISO 200.

 

[Bingley]

I get very good results with TMax 400 developed in HC 110, dilution h, for 11 mins. @ 20C. That is my go-to developer for TMax 400.

 

[charjohncarter]

I get very good results with TMax 400 developed in HC 110, dilution h, for 11 mins. @ 20C. That is my go-to developer for TMax 400.

I use similar, it turns 35mm in 120. Sharp, maybe not as acutance sharp as Rodinal but close (plus I like the soft warm feel of HC110), no grain, scans well, and if you use it at EI 200 you will get shadows that used to dream of, highlights are hard to blow so what more do you want. I'm sure all these other developers can be adjusted to do the same but Bingley's method has worked beautifully for me too.

I like this one because no highlights blown and all the shadows are there. And it was an Auto-Exposure camera:

TMY-2 HC-110h by John Carter, on Flickr