TMax Developer & Kodak Tri-X

[Vincent.G]

Hi guys

After shooting XP2 for a while, I want to try developing b&w negatives myself at home. I went to get myself a couple of rolls of tri-x and the following developing kit and chemicals:

1) Patterson Universal Tank (2-reel)
2) Kodak TMax developer (1:4)
3) Ilford Rapid Fixer (1:4)

I have a few questions here to ask.

The Tmax developer bottle states that for 1:4 dilution, processing tri-x at 20 degrees celcius, duration is 5 minutes with 5 inversions in 5 seconds for every 30 seconds. However on the Patterson instruction manual, it recommended twisting the stirring stick back and forth for 4-5 times at the start with 1 inversion per minute. I don't know much about film developing yet but both methods seem quite different in terms of the amount of agitation required. Which one should I follow?

I don't find much info on Tmax developer on forum and majority RFF members seem to use HC-110, XTOL and Rodinal (I only can quote names but I don't know much about their differences). Should I stick to my Tmax developer or should I switch to say, HC-110?

I read about RFF members using wetting agents (photoflo and hypo-clearing agent) and acid stop bath (I suppose Tmax developer is a acidic developer, right?) but I didn't get those. Does it matter if I just use tap water as stop bath and rinse?

Thanks for reading my long post. Hope to get some advice here for a darkroom newbie like me.

Cheers! 🙂

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Tmax Developer is fine for Tri-X, but I would dilute it 1+7 because the 5 minute time needed for the 1+4 dilution is too short and can give uneven development. 9 minutes, 68 degrees. Agitate by inversion for first 30 seconds then 4 inversions every minute.

Do not use the twirl stick, it can cause uneven development too. I know someone's gonna pop in and claim that it works fine for him. Whoever says that has been lucky or has low standards. Trust me on this one!

Here's some Tri-X in Tmax 1+7 shots.

 

[maddoc]

As Chris said, that was my procedure with Tmax developer and Tri-X, too. About the stop bath, normal water will do. I invert 10 times with water as stop bath and then fix.

A wetting agent is helpful as final bath to prevent from drying spot marks.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Any special reason for using that developer?

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Any special reason for using that developer?

It came with a kit he bought.

 

[Vincent.G]

They look good. I may give it a try. I just found from Tri-X literature from Kodak website that for small tank processing (8 or 16 ounce tank) with single or double reel tanks, it suggested an initial agitation of 5 to 7 inversion cycles in 5 seconds and repeat this agitation at 30 second intervals for a 6 minute development time at 20 degrees celcius. Anyone tried this before?

 

[Vincent.G]

Any special reason for using that developer?

Hi Juan

Unequipped with knowledge, I just walked into a dark room supplies store and asked for a b&w negative processing kit for a newbie like me. Since I got a Tmax developer, I shall just try it. No special reasons for using it. 🙂

 

[maddoc]

I have tried the Kodak recommendation a couple of times and always found my negatives having to much contrast ... My normal procedure is to agitate for the first minute (20 gentile inversions) and then one inversion every minute after. I do this will all films / developer combinations to have one constant factor in my process.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Thanks, Chris, I read that on the OP post, but as some other posters have been talking about that combo in other thread, I was wondering if it was interesting in any way... A few days ago here in Barcelona I found no more than T Max developer in a store, and they used to sell a few more brands the past year... I was amazed: the didn't have the always common ID-11 / D-76, and Rodinal either... Other member said T Max is better for labs because it's faster and cheaper...

Cheers,

Juan

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Vincent, never mind, with any developer you'll get an amazing quality if the image deserves it... I guess T Max has some solvent look, but it might depend on dilution too...

Cheers,

Juan

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I have tried the Kodak recommendation a couple of times and always found my negatives having to much contrast ... My normal procedure is to agitate for the first minute (20 gentile inversions) and then one inversion every minute after. I do this will all films / developer combinations to have one constant factor in my process.

That's because of agitating for a minute instead of 30 seconds. Kodak's times are based on 30 seconds beginning agitation; a minute will increase contrast slightly.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

By the way, for that bottle you could get a brick of the last version of T Max 400.

Some say it looks just like 100 film!

I should try it soon too, but for today, this is faster and easier for me! 🙂

 

[Vincent.G]

Tmax Developer is fine for Tri-X, but I would dilute it 1+7 because the 5 minute time needed for the 1+4 dilution is too short and can give uneven development. 9 minutes, 68 degrees. Agitate by inversion for first 30 seconds then 4 inversions every minute.

Chris, I suppose you mean continuous inversion for the first 30 seconds right? At what rate? 1 inversion per second? Thanks!

Cheers!

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Chris, I suppose you mean continuous inversion for the first 30 seconds right? At what rate? 1 inversion per second? Thanks!

Cheers!

I don't know the actual rate, lol, hard to describe but I always do it the same speed each time. I turn the tank over fairly fast then back up and then hit it 2 times on the palm of my hand to dislodge air bubbles....keep repeating for 30 seconds. takes about 2 seconds I think for each inversion/hit on hand cycle.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

By the way, for that bottle you could get a brick of the last version of T Max 400.

Some say it looks just like 100 film!

I should try it soon too, but for today, this is faster and easier for me! 🙂

Its beautiful. The Tmax 400 new version is extremely sharp and fine grained. I've developed it with great results in both D-76 1+1 and Tmax 1+7. Haven't decided which I like best, since I haven't done as much with the Tmax Developer yet. I know D-76 looks great and my results so far with Tmax are nice too but I am starting to think I like the D-76 1+1 highlight rendition a bit more. Still, Tmax 1+7 has nice tonality too and finer grain than D-76.

All shot with Tmax 400 current version in Tmax 1+7. EI-320

 

[mackigator]

RE: "I was wondering if it was interesting in any way..."

I have used this developer with colder water than the others commenting on here so far, compensated for by time, in the 1 + 4 dilution. It consistently creates what I call "velvety blacks" - very rich, dark areas on the black or near - black parts of my negatives. I like the look. I notice this in others photos whenever Tri-X is souped with TMAX developer, though the intensity of the effect varies.

I'll try the 1 + 7 dilution next time.

 

[Vincent.G]

I have tried the Kodak recommendation a couple of times and always found my negatives having to much contrast ... My normal procedure is to agitate for the first minute (20 gentile inversions) and then one inversion every minute after. I do this will all films / developer combinations to have one constant factor in my process.

I have been wondering. Why has Kodak recommended development process that yield contrasty results? I know this a starting point for us to modify from but isn't their starting point too much on the "harsh" side?

 

[Vincent.G]

RE: "I was wondering if it was interesting in any way..."

I have used this developer with colder water than the others commenting on here so far, compensated for by time, in the 1 + 4 dilution. It consistently creates what I call "velvety blacks" - very rich, dark areas on the black or near - black parts of my negatives. I like the look. I notice this in others photos whenever Tri-X is souped with TMAX developer, though the intensity of the effect varies.

I'll try the 1 + 7 dilution next time.

Interesting. What about the amount of agitation you give? Did you follow their guidelines on the bottle or tri-x film literature or you adopted your own process?

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I have been wondering. Why has Kodak recommended development process that yield contrasty results? I know this a starting point for us to modify from but isn't their starting point too much on the "harsh" side?

I don't think they do. Keep in mind that Kodak's times are based on printing on grade 2 paper with a diffusion cold-light enlarger. If you use a different paper, your results may be more or less contrasty (and remember that one manufacturer's grade 2 won't always match another manufacturers!). If you use a condenser enlarger kodak's times are definately too long. Scanning may or may not need a different time than Kodak says, depending on the type of scanner you use.

 

[Vincent.G]

I don't know the actual rate, lol, hard to describe but I always do it the same speed each time. I turn the tank over fairly fast then back up and then hit it 2 times on the palm of my hand to dislodge air bubbles....keep repeating for 30 seconds. takes about 2 seconds I think for each inversion/hit on hand cycle.

Chris, what EI did you rate your tri-x when using it with your recommended processing method? 320 or 400?