Tmax developer

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cornelius

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I recently purchased 100 ft roll of T-max 100 film and intended to use T-max developer on it rather then Rodinal I used before. What are the specifics (if any) of the T-max developer, any information is greatly appreciated.
Also can I process films other then "T" (or "Delta") with it - specifically APX 400 . Another thing - can I re-use Tmax developer.

Thank you.
 
:eek: I can't answer most of your questions because I don't develop my own film; however, the lab that develops my b&w, including APX100 uses the TMAX developer. I have used them for Ilford's Delta 100, FP125, HP5, Kodak TRIX and Tmax 100. I have not been displeased with their development. This includes 35mm as well as 120mm film. So from a user's perspective, I think it works for me. I have seen others complaint, but I have received good negatives from this lab.
 
Cornelius,
T-Max developer has times for Plus-X and Tri-X on the label, and every B&W film carton I checked had a listing for T-Max developer (Ilford and Agfa). I use it almost exclusively (also use D-76 occasionally). Here are my recipes for T-Max:

T100 EI-80 T-Max Developer 1:9 11 min @ 75° F

T400 EI-320 T-Max Developer 1:9 10-1/2 min @ 75° F

P3200 EI-800: T-Max Developer 1:9 13-1/2 min @ 75° F
 
I have used Kodak D-76 for T-max 100, also I use it for Ilford HP5+, Kodak Tri-X, and Ilford Pan F. It is pretty much a universal developer. But ask 10 photographers what to use for a film developer and you will get 12 choices.

I'm not sure on re-using T-Max developer, with D-76 I use it as a "one shot" developer and then discard the used developer.

Wayne
 
P. S. Sorry, forgot to address your question of reuse. With T-Max developer it can be reused with a replenisher; my thought is "why bother?" Especially with the dilution I use (1:9) the cost is insignificant. I do not reuse any chemicals -- for me the minimal expense isn't worth compromising the outcome.
 
Honu-Hugger said:
P. S. Sorry, forgot to address your question of reuse. With T-Max developer it can be reused with a replenisher; my thought is "why bother?"
Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly. Also, I think you lose a level of control and predictability with developer replenishers. The cost savings are probably realized and advantageous in a larger lab-type environment. I do however reuse fix and stop. :D
 
Tmax is meant to be a one shot. I think there is a Tmax RS which is a replenishable solution, but I don't remember the specifics of it.
 
Tmax developer can be used multiple times by increasing the development time. 1 liter will do up to 12 films. I use it with Tmax 100 and like the results I get. I find it too expensive to use one-shot.

However, I prefer to use Rodinal whenever I can, but I did not like the results I got with it and Tmax 100. Rodinal is cheap and one-shot, the only problem is all the waste it produces which I take to a recycle/environment center (or whatever it is called in english).

Yes, I know you will all object to increasing development time as you get non-consistent results. However, I do not really care as I am not that advanced, at least not when it comes to film processing. I use whatever is convenient and works for me and do not bother so much. If I get results that I like, then I am happy and keep using it. If not, I try some other combo.

Maybe I should be more careful about this, but I just find the whole concept of testing film and development times boring. Just as I find advanced darkroom dodging and burning boring. Fortunately, I get results anyway that are to my satisfaction, otherwise I would rather give up B&W (at least in darkroom) and go digital or just shoot color slide film.

My highly non-scientific findings are as follows:

Tmax 400 is a hit and miss. Can be lovely in Tmax developer and work OK in ID-11. In Rodinal the grain is ugly. I have stopped using this film as I felt it was so-so and do not work well with Rodinal which is my preferred brew.

Tmax 100 is very good, at least in Tmax developer and I like the results. But I am not at ease with Kodak so I will try some other 100 films soon (Acros, fp4+ and Delta).

Tri-x is very good in Rodinal with visible and pleasing (to me) grain.

I hold Neopan 400 at the same level as Tri-x, I have not yet come to a conclusion which I like best.

I do not like any of Tmz or Neopan 1600. Neopan 1600 has some merits, but it is just to grainy and muddy. I have only tried it in Rodinal.

My future 400 film will most likely be what I can get cheapest of Neopan and Tri-X, though I lean towards Neopan as I like Fuji as a company better.
If I can find a 100 film that works in Rodinal I might stick to it, otherwise it will have to be Tmax 100 or Delta 100 in Tmax developer.
 
I develop 120 tmax 400 in D-76 1:1 and get outstanding results. Haven't tried it yet with 35mm but from what I've seen on 120 it should work well. Rodinal produces a grain effect that I don't like.
 
RayPA,

Yes, I do dilute D76. I use it 1:1. I do a 2 minute pre-soak on the T-max with water then I develop in a Unicolor rotary processer. I develop both 35mm and 120 T-Max. With the T-Max films I normally fix for about twice the recommended time. I use 8 to 10 minutes in fixer. I have had funky purple looking T-max negatives with short fix times.

If this is your first time with pre-soaking don't be alarmed when the water you pour out is a dark purple-black in color.

Wayne
 
Thanks Wayne. I have a film squeegee sponge that can attess to TMAX's color. :) I fix for the same time range for the same reason. :mad:
 
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