Tmax films in PMK

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I've been using PMK Pyro for a few years with Tri-X with gorgeous results. Last year, I tried the developer with Tmax 400 and worked out good developing times for it. I loved the results with it, so last week I decided to test out Tmax 100. The Tmax films are often said to be poorly suited to developing in PMK, but I have been impressed with my results.

I wonder why I never see anyone else here talking about PMK? RFF has a lot of devotees of esoteric processes like stand developing and two-bath developers (eg. Diafine). In my opinion, PMK is a far better process than stand or two-bath processing. Here's some examples from my recent work with Tmax films in PMK.

Tmax 100, EI-64, normal developing in PMK 1+2+100 (11 minutes, 75 degrees).

Tmax 400, EI-250, normal developing in PMK 1+2+100 (11 minutes, 75 degrees).

Tmax 400, EI-250, normal developing in PMK 1+2+100 (11 minutes, 75 degrees).


These were all 120 size film, shot in a Hasselblad. Both Tmax films use the same developing time in PMK, which is convenient, too.

 

[f16sunshine]

These look beautiful to me.
Tmax in 120 is a constant for me.
I will give this a try.

thanks!

 

[Nokton48]

I've been a fan of PMK for twenty years, and it is still my favorite developer. I even add a "shot" of Amidol to it, which makes it PMK+. About 1/2 extra stop in speed is the plus.

I still have me signed copy of "The Book of Pyro" by Gordon Hutchings. It's battered and water-stained, but it is not going anywhere.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I learned to use PMK from Gordon Hutchings Book of Pyro too! I'll never part with mine either.

 

[jpa66]

Chris,
I've never used PMK, but I've developed both T-Max 100 and 400 in Pyrocat, and like the results with both of them. In fact, it's the de-facto developer that I now use for those emulsions. I'll see if I can dig out any of the negatives this weekend and post them here.

Jan

 

[tjh]

I especially like the last two!

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Chris,
I've never used PMK, but I've developed both T-Max 100 and 400 in Pyrocat, and like the results with both of them. In fact, it's the de-facto developer that I now use for those emulsions. I'll see if I can dig out any of the negatives this weekend and post them here.

Jan

Jan,

I'd love to see some of your work with Pyrocat. I started using PMK before I heard of Pyrocat, but I've seen a lot of people say Pyrocat was easier to use (less likely to cause uneven developing or streaks) and gave higher film speeds. I've always wanted to try it, but I'm getting great results with PMK and I spent so long testing all the films in it, so I haven't been motivated enough to try another developer. I will do it someday, though.

 

[Trius]

I've tried Delta 100 in Finol and liked the results. I haven't done enough experimenting yet, however, to dial it in. I know it's not exactly the same, but "close".

 

[Tom A]

Nye Beach in Oregon. PMK with Tmax 400. 14 min. Summilux 35f1.4.
I used PMK for a long time - but switched to Pyrocat HD as I found it easier to deal with. I also found that the PMK 35mm negatives didnt work that well for scanning. Probably should revisit the PMK (still have 1 pound of pyro in my chemistry cabinet. Never had a problem with film speed - usually could get 250 iso out of the 400 TMax.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Nye Beach in Oregon. PMK with Tmax 400. 14 min. Summilux 35f1.4.
I used PMK for a long time - but switched to Pyrocat HD as I found it easier to deal with. I also found that the PMK 35mm negatives didnt work that well for scanning. Probably should revisit the PMK (still have 1 pound of pyro in my chemistry cabinet. Never had a problem with film speed - usually could get 250 iso out of the 400 TMax.

That's a beautiful photo, Tom. I haven't done any 35mm Tmax 400 in PMK yet, just 120 size. I have done a couple hundred rolls of Tri-X in 35mm in PMK and they scanned pretty well. Did you think 120 size Tmax 400 in PMK scanned differently than 35mm size? I'm only giving 11 minutes of developing for Tmax 400 in PMK (but at 75 degrees, not 68), but that's the current (TMY-2) version.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I've tried Delta 100 in Finol and liked the results. I haven't done enough experimenting yet, however, to dial it in. I know it's not exactly the same, but "close".

What's Finol?

 

[Tom A]

Chris, this is with the old Tmax400 - tricky film. The new Tmax-2 400 is much better - in fact I will go out on a limb here and say that it is probably the best 400 film in 120 available. Haven't tried it in PMK - but you got me interested and I might fight the elements (October rain/wind)) and try some. It works very well in the Pyrocat HD and semi-stand development.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Chris, this is with the old Tmax400 - tricky film. The new Tmax-2 400 is much better - in fact I will go out on a limb here and say that it is probably the best 400 film in 120 available. Haven't tried it in PMK - but you got me interested and I might fight the elements (October rain/wind)) and try some. It works very well in the Pyrocat HD and semi-stand development.

I love rainy weather; I envy you living where you do. Indiana has had a drought most of this summer. I shoot the TMY-2 at EI-250 and develop it for 11 minutes at 75 degrees (24C) in PMK 1+2+100, same time as for Tmax 100. I've loved my results in 120. The fog photo with the headlights coming out of the fog is the sort of photo I normally would have used a 100 film for, but I was out of 100 speed film that day, and I used the 400 instead...it was surprisingly beautiful! I think you'll like it 🙂

 

[telenous]

These look very nice. The staining effect makes me think of ink drawings.

I wonder why I never see anyone else here talking about PMK? RFF has a lot of devotees of esoteric processes like stand developing and two-bath developers (eg. Diafine). In my opinion, PMK is a far better process than stand or two-bath processing. Here's some examples from my recent work with Tmax films in PMK.

The problem with PMK is the toxicity it has (or may have) over other developers. You need to wear mask, gloves and what have you. I guess the skull and crossbones on the powder pouch averts from experimenting as freely as with other processes.

.

 

[jpa66]

What's Finol?

Chris,

It's a "mildly" staining developer from Wolfgang Moersch. The stain is not as pronounced as with other staining developers. I really like the stuff for certain films ( especially Plus-X and neopan ). The only place that you can get it in the US seems to be Freestyle, and they have been out of it for what seems like an eternity. Ive been needing to get some more for awhile.

http://www.moersch-photochemie.de/content/shop/negativ/93/finol

 

[Kenj8246]

Ok, I'm claiming chemical ignorance. 1+2+100. How do you use that to figure out how much what goes where? I know that , for instance, Rodinal 1+50 for 120 film means I need 600ml / 51 = 11.7ml of Rodinal and the rest distilled water. How does one handle the 1+2+100?

Kenny

 

[Bill Clark]

PMK is a great developer. I also have tried and like John Wimberley's WD2D+. Actually I use his developer more than PMK.

An interesting book is "The Book of Pyro" by Gordon Hutchings.

A source of supply of products:

http://stores.photoformulary.com/StoreFront.bok

Have a fine weekend.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Ok, I'm claiming chemical ignorance. 1+2+100. How do you use that to figure out how much what goes where? I know that , for instance, Rodinal 1+50 for 120 film means I need 600ml / 51 = 11.7ml of Rodinal and the rest distilled water. How does one handle the 1+2+100?

Kenny

PMK has two stock solutions. You use 1 part of solution A, 2 parts of solution B and 100 parts water.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

These look very nice. The staining effect makes me think of ink drawings.



The problem with PMK is the toxicity it has (or may have) over other developers. You need to wear mask, gloves and what have you. I guess the skull and crossbones on the powder pouch averts from experimenting as freely as with other processes.

.

I avoid that by buying it premixed in the liquid concentrates from Photographers Formulary. I don't understand why anyone would mess with mixing this themselves from raw chemicals or buying the powder kit instead of the much safer liquid. A lot of people do it though! With the liquid, the primary danger is getting it on your skin, and wearing chemical resistant gloves solves that.

 

[Nokton48]

I also use rubber gloves and Photographer's Formulary liquid concentrates. The rubber gloves get brown stains on them, so I keep using them. Better than on my skin. A bottle seems to last forever, certainly one of the most economical developers. Did you Guys know Kodak D-1 Developer was Pyro-based? It's been around a long time.

Too bad Efke is no more, PL100 in PMK+ was an amazing combination. I use that combo in 6x9cm, 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10. Old School emulsions respond very well in the Pyro+. And 120 Ilford Pan F+ is also great in PMK+, just process timely!