Tmax+Leica, my new love!

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

By the way, The Hub, I like the bridge photo. Was that shot in 6x6 or 35mm?

 

[charjohncarter]

TMY-2 is a wonder; I never thought I would consider any film other than TX. My first roll in Rodinal 1:100 was revelatory; I immediately sent an email to Mary Jane Hellyar, President of film division at Kodak.

Olympus 35SP TMY-2 Rodinal 1:100

Get the Viagra out, that is almost as great as your tree (Acros100/Rodinal 1+100).

 

[Trius]

Carter, wow, thank you very much. Finally my question "When will someone mention Viagara in reference to one of my photos?" is answered. 😉

Actually, the other tree photo was with APX100/Rodinal. But your compliment stands. 😀

WRT to scanning, TX and TMY-2 have different curves, so you could simply profile the TMY-2 in the scanning software.

 

[charjohncarter]

Did I say Viagra? I guess I did, well it stands. At least we know it goes though the 'bad words' filter. Still, Earl, a great image.

 

[shadowfox]

I recently developed a set of old rolls for a friend, these are bulk rolls from six years ago, and he thought it was Tri-X Pan.

So I tried the first roll in my current favorite developer... Rodinal 1+50, very few agitation (yes, Earl, I graduated to Rodinal now 😉 )

Well, after developing, I found out that the film says Kodak 5052 on the rebate (that is TMX 100 according to this very useful website).

Fortunately for me, the scanned results are stunning, lush creamy whites and crisp blacks with no unsightly grain. My friend is happy and so am I 🙂

 

[ailardi]

For the last few months I also have been shooting TMax (TMY-2), all pushed to 1600 and developed in TMax developer. For these rolls, I have been using a Leica and 50mm C Sonnar and one roll, so far, with a 35mm lens. Returning to doing my own development after 20 years, I opted for TMax developer for the convenience factor -- I do not have a darkroom; I use the TMax developer as a one shot developer at 1:4, mixed at the time of development. No regrets. It scans nicely -- better than my 30-year old Tri-X negatives processed in D-76 or Microdol-X

 

[Burlap Jacket]

I've used Tmax400 (new) in Rodinal, it works just as well as it does with Tmax100. I've tried a couple of different techniques and they both have been excellent (for me).

Here is one from my Konica C35 (Leica backup) in Puerto Vallarta last week:

I'd be curious to hear your techniques for T-Max 400 in Rodinal. I have a wack of tmy400 in the fridge and am going to be picking up some Rodinal soon. I was told that Rodinal wasn't the best pairing for the modern t-grain films like t-max and delta.

 

[charjohncarter]

That is probably right, I do see more grain with Rodinal than I do with HC-110. But when I use TMY-2 (Tmax400) in 120 it doesn't matter. The two methods I use are 1. TMY-2, at 250, Rodinal 1+50, 12 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, 3 inversions per minute, 68 degrees, and 2. the same except 10 minutes Rodinal 1+50 and finish off with 3 minutes in a Twenty Mule Team Borax mix of 5ml TMTB and 500ml water, no agitation just stand; fix, etc normally. The 12 minute method is off the Rodinal sheet.

The above images was with method #2.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

That is probably right, I do see more grain with Rodinal than I do with HC-110. But when I use TMY-2 (Tmax400) in 120 it doesn't matter. The two methods I use are 1. TMY-2, at 250, Rodinal 1+50, 12 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, 3 inversions per minute, 68 degrees, and 2. the same except 10 minutes Rodinal 1+50 and finish off with 3 minutes in a Twenty Mule Team Borax mix of 5ml TMTB and 500ml water, no agitation just stand; fix, etc normally. The 12 minute method is off the Rodinal sheet.

The above images was with method #2.

I'm going to have to try that. I've used Rodinal for years with Tmax 100, but never liked it with the original Tmax 400. TMY-2 is a different film and your result looks nice.

 

[charjohncarter]

Chris, I won't say I love them both with Rodinal, but the trick for me was to develop long enough to get full but not blown highlights (and be sure to expose for shadows). That is not easy with Tmax films as they have zero shoulder (HD curve). Once I read that the longer you develop TriX the more density you get, but contrast starts to be lost. The author then said the longer you develop TmaX films the more the contrast you get (along with more density), and I agree with both statements. Tmax films were originally developed for studio or controlled lighting work. I can see that, but like everybody I shoot whatever. I use that two bath method to try to draw more shadows out. It has worked for me better with TmaX100 than with TMY-2.