TMax RS Developer. I finally developed my first roll after 50 years......

pepeguitarra

pepeguitarra

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My last developed roll was 50 years ago. Today, I finally had time and everything ready to develop my first roll. It was a 400Tmax. I chose TMax RS Developer to take advantage that it comes already liquid. I did not want to deal with powder. I used the directions from the data sheet, I created 1 gallon of 1:4, and used 500ml for 1 roll. I used water for stop, and Ilford Rapid Fixer for Fixer. At 70 degrees Fahrenheit, 5:45 minutes of developing, 2 minutes of stop, and five minutes of fixing. Plus 10.3 minutes of washing. Not really. I only used the developing instructions. All the rest, I gather from everyone else. I washed (not to waste water) by filling the tank with water and shaking it for 30 seconds three times. Then I added few drops of .....flow, and let it rinse for 1 minute. Then out, a rubber squeeze and hang it up. It looks fine, I am waiting for it to dry. Tomorrow, I will scan the roll and post the best shots. It will cost me about $0.65 per roll of 36 shots. Compared to $21 plus shipping at the studios, I am encouraged to keep developing.
 
Fun isn't it.

The process of developing and printing still is as exciting as it was sixty years ago when my father was teaching me. The simple act of my father teaching me to process and print led me to a full time career as a commercial photographer. After processing tens of thousands of rolls I still get excited about processing and printing my work.

Congratulations on getting back to real photography.
 
as per Chris Crawford:

Chriscrawfordphoto
11-04-2010, 21:31
Tmax RS is made for large tanks in labs where developer will be replenished. If you're doing small tank developing of personal film, you'll be better off using the regular Tmax Developer. The only thing Tmax RS is really better for with home use is for sheet film, since for some reason the regular version of Tmax Developer causes dichroic fog on sheet films.
dyao
 
marcr1230 said:
as per Chris Crawford:

Chriscrawfordphoto
11-04-2010, 21:31
Tmax RS is made for large tanks in labs where developer will be replenished. If you're doing small tank developing of personal film, you'll be better off using the regular Tmax Developer. The only thing Tmax RS is really better for with home use is for sheet film, since for some reason the regular version of Tmax Developer causes dichroic fog on sheet films.
dyao
Click to expand...

That's good to know. I've only used TMax RS once on a few rolls of 35mm TriX. I actually thought (mistakenly forgot) that I was processing with D76 and the rolls came out great. Nice grain and tonality.

I do shoot 4x5 sheet film as well, but have yet to process any B&W myself. Good to know this about RS.

On a side note I just mixed up some Xtol for the first time. Have yet to try it. I have some rolls waiting.
 
This was a test roll (at a friend's house) nothing artsy:

TriX in Tmax RS, I liked the results:

Bari.jpg




Savage_Macht6.jpg




soccer_fans-b.jpg




the-game_3-b.jpg
 
Well here are my first developed and scanned photos

Well here are my first developed and scanned photos

I used a brand new (that I had bought about a year ago for $198 and never used) EPSON PERFECTION V600 PHOTO SCANNER (It took about 28 minutes to scan the first 6 shots). I welcome comments on what went well and wrong with the whole thing. I do not remember what camera I was using, I think the Canon P with the Nikkor 50/14 and the Nikkor-W 35/1.8. The days were cloudy.


imgREAL006 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr


imgREAL005 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr


imgREAL003 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr


imgREAL002 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr


imgREAL001 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr


imgREAL004 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr

The 3rd, 4th and 5th images were shot with the Nikkor-W 35/1.8. I may have used an orange filter, but not sure. I get the vignetting with the hood.
 
Very cool.

My only advice is to drop the squeegee, it will eventually scratch your film.

I force the water off using gravity/centrifugal force, works pretty well.
 
Yep, if you're using Photo-flo no need for a squeegee. I used to use one and went years without a scratch, and then the inevitable happened...

I mix it with distilled water and never have any water spots at all. Just hang to drip-dry.

Also, I've found HC-110 to be incredibly convenient to mix and use. I decant the 1 liter bottle of concentrate into smaller 100-250 ml glass bottles and fill each to the brim. I only use one at a time, and the concentrate has a much longer shelf life.

Nice results! TMax 100 and 400 are some of my favorite films. The Canon P is also a great camera, especially at the relatively low prices thay still go for these days. Much more user-friendly than a Leica screw-mount or older Canon RF.
 
Looks like you are getting nice results with TMax RS!

On a side note, there is "secret" recipe for TMax RS for us home developers, which also has the advantage that it will keep (almost) forever -- at least a good 9 - 12 months in my personal experience.

Step 1: throw away the Kodak instructions
Step 2: pour all of the small bottle (part B) into the big bottle (part A)
Step 3: mix 1:9 with (distilled) water and use at 75 degrees Fahrenheit (~24 degrees Celsius)

My "normal" time is 6:30 minutes, but YMMV...

Cheers,
Mike
 
mbisc said:
Looks like you are getting nice results with TMax RS!

On a side note, there is "secret" recipe for TMax RS for us home developers, which also has the advantage that it will keep (almost) forever -- at least a good 9 - 12 months in my personal experience.

Step 1: throw away the Kodak instructions
Step 2: pour all of the small bottle (part B) into the big bottle (part A)
Step 3: mix 1:9 with (distilled) water and use at 75 degrees Fahrenheit (~24 degrees Celsius)

My "normal" time is 6:30 minutes, but YMMV...

Cheers,
Mike
Click to expand...

Thank you. I will keep in mind for the next one. I already have 1 gallon made as per Kodak instructions. I have 1/2 of that gallon in a full 1/2 gallon bottle, while I use the other half a gallon. I expect to get the 48 rolls that Kodak announces. I will try that formula next. I am also wanting to try Rodinol. Andy advice on Rodinol?


imgREAL015 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr



imgREAL022 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr



imgREAL020 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr
 
I am also wanting to try Rodinol. Andy advice on Rodinol?
Click to expand...

Get the "correct" Rodinal (the one that last "forever"), I am not entirely sure which one that is these days, but be aware that there used to be one that lasted almost indefinitely and one that could go bad on you quite quickly.

Oh.....and Tri-x in Rodinal isn't the best if you are trying to get small grain ^^

Try Acros in Rodinal 1:25 (it's actually better than 1:50), or any other low-speed film, great acutance and tones.
 
no experience/advice on Rodinal, but since you said you are using TMax 400: one of the cool things about TMax RS is that you can develop TMax 100 & 400 using the same development time and process, which is especially nice if you use both and want to develop both in the same tank...
 
pepeguitarra said:
Thank you. I will keep in mind for the next one. I already have 1 gallon made as per Kodak instructions. I have 1/2 of that gallon in a full 1/2 gallon bottle, while I use the other half a gallon. I expect to get the 48 rolls that Kodak announces. I will try that formula next. I am also wanting to try Rodinol. Andy advice on Rodinol?
Click to expand...

I have been using Rodinal for 26 years. It is one of my favorite developers.

Here's my experience:

• For slow films like Tmax 100 and Ilford Pan-F, Rodinal gives incredible sharpness and tonality with fine grain.

• For Tri-X and Ilford HP5, it gives very sharp, gritty results, but doesn't look 'too grainy.' The tonality is a little harsher than you get with D-76, contributing to the gritty feel. I like it for some subjects.

• Dilution: For most uses, the 1+50 dilution gives the best results.

• Myths: Rodinal has a lot of myths about it floating around the internet. One is that it gets grainy at developing temps higher than 68 degrees (20C). This is not true. Those who see that are overdeveloping.

• Developer Volume: Because Rodinal is highly dilute, I use a two-roll tank to develop one roll of 35mm film, with an empty roll in the tank to fill the rest of the space. Trying to develop two rolls can sometimes give slight under-developing because there just isn't enough of the Rodinal concentrate in there to do it. If you want to do two rolls, use a 4 reel tank.

• Measuring: Because of the tiny amount of Rodinal you mix into a large quantity of water, it is vital to be accurate in measuring the Rodinal concentrate. Here's a video I made on how to accurately measure very small volumes of chemistry:

https://youtu.be/-W6cFsCTPRs


• Film Speeds. With most films, Rodinal loses a bit of speed. Look at my tested developing times for different films in Rodinal. I list the correct EI to use for each film.

http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/developing.php
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
I have been using Rodinal for 26 years. It is one of my favorite developers.

Here's my experience:


• Film Speeds. With most films, Rodinal loses a bit of speed. Look at my tested developing times for different films in Rodinal. I list the correct EI to use for each film.

http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/developing.php
Click to expand...

Thank you Chris. Do you have the list for Rodinal? The one above is for D-76.

Thanks, Pepe
 
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