Tmax400 Images Thread

Erik van Straten said:
Leica M2, Summicron-M 50mm f/2 v4, 400-2TMY, Perceptol.

Erik.

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Great moment Erik
 
I'm just using Ilford Multigrade IV RC paper with Ilford warmtone developer. Nothing fancy. I'm making an effort to print everything. I sold my nikon scanner, bought a v700 for prints and the odd color roll and I'm just printing everything. The process is slower but the results are much more rewarding, and the archivability is something I'm after.

This was also developed in rodinal. I'm thinking that Tmax 400 with Rodinal and the Ilford paper I'm using are actually a pretty decent combination. I have many great prints from this session.
 
BLKRCAT said:
I sold my nikon scanner, bought a v700 for prints and the odd color roll and I'm just printing everything.
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I love the work of Junku Nishimura. He makes B+W prints that he scans with a scanner in the color mode. Gives crazy effects, but I quite like them.

I am intending to make prints on Ilford silver/gelatine paper. Recently I found a huge old Büscher print dryer (50x60cm). Without such a machine it is very hard to get the prints flat after drying them.

Erik.
 
I have an Arkay double sided print dryer. It sandwiches the print to a heated drum with canvas. The thing seems like a huge fire hazard but I only use it under close supervision.

Keeps my prints nice and flat with no need to hang them dry.
 
BLKRCAT said:
I have an Arkay double sided print dryer. It sandwiches the print to a heated drum with canvas. The thing seems like a huge fire hazard but I only use it under close supervision.

Keeps my prints nice and flat with no need to hang them dry.
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I have one of those too and wanted to replace the canvas with maybe some micro-fibre fabric.
The canvas can stick with papers with any real sheen.
I don’t have the print darkroom set up now... but at some point wil use this again.
It’s a good drier. I don’t think a fire hazard is a real concern :p
 
I know what you mean. My canvas is also pretty gross because my drum has some pinholes of rust that stain the backs of my prints. I guess the previous owner must have left it to get wet because it seeped through to the canvas as well. It's only ruined one prints for me. You just have to know where to put your print on the drier.
 
Parchment paper intended for baking was useful.... don’t re-use it too many times.
Carefull with full glossy print paper though.
 
Usually the canvas becomes less sticky after some use.

You absolutely need a thermostate with this kind of dryers. I have a Htronic, a German device, very simple to use. Not expensive. It keeps the dryer on any temperature you want. It automatically puts the dryer on and off within a chosen range, for example between 60 and 70 degrees C.

You need chromed plates of good quality, without rust. Rust will spoil all your prints. These plates are available new.

Erik.
 
Don't quote me but my thermostat on my dryer goes to something like 250ºF!! I usually keep it at 180. My canvas sticks but it doesn't seem to hurt anything so it doesn't bother me too much.
 
f16sunshine said:
Parchment paper intended for baking was useful.... don’t re-use it too many times.
Carefull with full glossy print paper though.
Click to expand...

This might be a good idea. I was also considering just recoating my drum. I could use some enamel that isn't water soluble. With proper prep and adhesion I think it would work. Haven't mustered up the courage to do this yet though.
 
Too hot is good for nothing. The most important thing is that the heat on the surface is even. There must be no difference of heat, or the drying process will be uneven. The print will curl or bobble.

250 degrees F is far too hot. 70 or 80 degrees C is OK.

Drying silver/gelatine prints is almost an art.

Erik.
 
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