Tmax400 Images Thread

[Erik van Straten]

Love portrait Erik. My elmar does not seem to be so sharp wide open (I assume it is wide open).

Thank you, Pan.

There are Elmars and Elmars. Yes, here it is wide open. It is not exactly sharp, but quite contrasty. I cleaned it from a fog that had grown there in 90 years.

I love your Polish ice cream shot too!

Thank you, Johan, yes I've made pictures of him before.

Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Leica IA (1928), Elmar 50mm f/3.5, 400-2TMY.

Happy New Year everybody!

Erik.

 

[p.giannakis]

Beautiful portrait Erik.

Happy new year to you and your family.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Thank you very much, Pan!

Leica IA (1928), Elmar 50mm f/3.5, 400-2TMY.

Erik.

 

[Bingley]

Rolleiflex Automat MX EVS, TMax 400 in HC 110 dilution h:

Aggregate by bingley0522, on Flickr

Dreamscape by bingley0522, on Flickr

 

[p.giannakis]

Rolleiflex Automat MX EVS, TMax 400 in HC 110 dilution h:

Dreamscape by bingley0522, on Flickr

This is great.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Leica IA (1928), Elmar 50mm f/3.5, 400-2TMY, Adox MCC 110.

Erik.

 

[p.giannakis]

Leica IA (1928), Elmar 50mm f/3.5, 400-2TMY, Adox MCC 110.

Erik.

I often wonder how many times we appear in other people's pictures without knowing it.




Pentax Spotmatic with Takumar 55 f/2 wide open.
Kodak T-Max 400 in HC-110 (1:50)

 

[Erik van Straten]

Fantastic portrait, Pan. Wonderful bo-ke! Beautiful lens.


Erik.

 

[p.giannakis]

Fantastic portrait, Pan. Wonderful bo-ke! Beautiful lens.

Erik.

Actually, i was pleasantly surprised by this lens - so cheap and so good too.
Another one from the same film.

 

[Guest]

I know I am getting old but stupid ???
Right just got some Kodak HC110 concentrate to develop Kodak TMax 400 120 roll film. I do three rolls per tank.
Tells me to dilute concentrate at 1/3 for stock solution. Then gives me working solution of 1/3 and another 1/7 now developing time says 7 minutes at 68f but does not indicate which ratio mix, am I that stupid. There are also a bunch more working solution mixes ???????
But just one set of developing times.
Please help me someone.

 

[Erik van Straten]

What a lovely picture! And indeed, a wonderful lens. Pentax was famous for its lenses.


Erik.

 

[Papercut]

I know I am getting old but stupid ???
Right just got some Kodak HC110 concentrate to develop Kodak TMax 400 120 roll film. I do three rolls per tank.
Tells me to dilute concentrate at 1/3 for stock solution. Then gives me working solution of 1/3 and another 1/7 now developing time says 7 minutes at 68f but does not indicate which ratio mix, am I that stupid. There are also a bunch more working solution mixes ???????
But just one set of developing times.
Please help me someone.

There are a bunch of different dilutions for HC-110. You can mix up a stock solution and then mix up a (more diluted) working solution. The drawback is the stock solution has to be used fairly quickly, while the undiluted concentrate lasts virtually forever. So, many people just use the concentrate and dilute it well (at the proper ratio for their preferred working method) right before developing.

Dilutions E, B and H are popular.
B = 1 part concentrate + 31 parts water.
E = 1 part concentrate + 47 parts water.
H = 1 part concentrate + 63 parts water.

Times will vary for each dilution.

Useful links on HC-110:
https://www.digitaltruth.com/products/kodak_tech/j24_HC-110.pdf
http://www.warehousephoto.com/Articles/hc110.htm
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
http://www.mironchuk.com/hc-110.html

This link to the massive development chart gives potential starting times for some common dilutions:
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devcha...r=%HC-110%&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C&TimeUnits=D

As Greg Mironchuk's page on HC-110 (link above) makes clear though, you may need to experiment to find the right time for you. Like him, I used dil. H and have found his times to be good ballpark for my water, but they may be wrong for yours. Enjoy!

 

[Guest]

Got it thank you for the help. I have got six rolls in two tanks, I think I will try one set as per your H suggestion, I have been using a syringe with Adox Rodinal, will see if it works with this thicker stuff.
I notice that Kodak said reduce their developing times by 30% isf using a condenser enlarger.
I have an Omega 5x4 set up with a condenser set up and a 30% reduction seems like a hell of a time slice to me. None of the sites you provided mention the reduced time Papercut, what do you think ?????
You are very kind for spending your time helping me, I truly appreciate it Sir.
Cheers,
James.

 

[Papercut]

Got it thank you for the help. I have got six rolls in two tanks, I think I will try one set as per your H suggestion, I have been using a syringe with Adox Rodinal, will see if it works with this thicker stuff.
I notice that Kodak said reduce their developing times by 30% isf using a condenser enlarger.
I have an Omega 5x4 set up with a condenser set up and a 30% reduction seems like a hell of a time slice to me. None of the sites you provided mention the reduced time Papercut, what do you think ?????
You are very kind for spending your time helping me, I truly appreciate it Sir.
Cheers,
James.

Hi James,

I don't print with an enlarger in a darkroom, so I don't have the experience to say one way or another whether your Omega condenser should have a different development time. However, since I scan I typically prefer flat (low contrast) negatives so my scanner can capture all the negative information, which is perhaps somewhat similar to a condenser (if my limited darkroom experience / knowledge is right). What I've done to get lower contrast negatives is reduce agitation. With HC-110 and dilution H, I typically only agitate every 90 seconds or so and then only three inversions. This helps control highlight density as well as letting the developer act longer (between agitations) on the shadows. The results for me have been good for scanning.

But, here's the real advice: you should experiment, taking notes with each roll so that you know what you did. If you do that, you may not get perfect results first time out of the gate, but should be able to find a regimen that works to give you the results you want / need. If the rolls you are set to develop are precious, I'd recommend shooting some test rolls and developing them before doing the important films.

 

[Bingley]

FWIW, I develop TMax 400, exposed at box speed, in HC 110 dilution h for 11 minutes at 20C. I do 30 seconds of initial agitation, and 3 inversions at 8, 5 and 2 minutes counting down. All of my photos in this thread were processed using this approach. YMMV.

 

[Bingley]

Pan, Thank you.

 

[p.giannakis]

Just for the record, I develop TMax in 6ml of HC110 and 294ml of water (1:50 dilution) at 20 degrees. 30 seconds continuous agitation and then one inversion every minute for 9 minutes (9m 30sec total time).

 

[p.giannakis]

I notice that Kodak said reduce their developing times by 30% isf using a condenser enlarger.
I have an Omega 5x4 set up with a condenser set up and a 30% reduction seems like a hell of a time slice to me. None of the sites you provided mention the reduced time .

I have a condenser enlarger but my printing experience is very limited. So far my prints look ok without having to reduce the developing time (especially by 30%).
Maybe someone with more experience can help with that.

 

[Freakscene]

I have a condenser enlarger but my printing experience is very limited. So far my prints look ok without having to reduce the developing time (especially by 30%).
Maybe someone with more experience can help with that.

Read “A Tale of Three Enlarger Heads" by Ctein in the Jan-Feb and Mar-Apr 1999 issues of Photo Techniques Magazine and Ctein’s Post Exposure (available online free). There are a lot of disagreements about the theory, but these show results.

Ctein showed small differences in contrast and noted that “The diffusion head produces prints with higher contrast in the shadows but lower contrast in the
highlights. None the less, the typical curves for the two heads are very close from start to finish. [] Hence, it is not generally possible to exactly match a condenser print with a dichroic diffusion print by changing paper grade or changing film processing (though one might get lucky)." [] "Chromogenic negatives print the same with all heads, indicating that any differences in the printing qualities of the heads are a result of the silver grain image, not an inherent property of the light source."

I print the same 35mm negs with diffusion (Durst 1200) and condensor (Leica Ic) enlargers and the tones are quite different, but not 30% development different.

Note that I don’t use TMY much, but that most of my photos posted here are scans of prints.

Marty