Topcon RE Super

[Pál_K]

This is why I have not "pulled the trigger" yet on the one I am eyeing on evilbay.

Thank you for this advice. I probably should just get over the Contax.

You could get a IIa or IIIa which has a gear train to move the shutter instead of the straps. Much more reliable. My IIIa has produced wonderful photos, fantastic 50mm lens, and all of its shutter speeds are within spec except 1/1250.

 

[silverhalidedreamer]

You could get a IIa or IIIa which has a gear train to move the shutter instead of the straps. Much more reliable. My IIIa has produced wonderful photos, fantastic 50mm lens, and all of its shutter speeds are within spec except 1/1250.

That is what I had, a IIIa. I foolishly traded it for a Rollei TLR with 80mm Xenotar. I have regretted it ever since. So, the IIa and IIIa are more reliable than the other Contax rangefinders?

 

[Phil_F_NM]

That is what I had, a IIIa. I foolishly traded it for a Rollei tlr with 80mm Xenotar. I have regretted it ever since.

Why? This is comparing apples and mangoes. If it comes down to you only being able to afford one camera at a time, of course, pick the camera that you feel fits with you the best BUT, make sure you either pick a very reliable camera, or have the resources available to get the camera you choose repaired.

Phil Forrest

 

[David Hughes]

Or buy from a dealer who will guarantee the thing. There are a few about and it's a lot cheaper in the long term than guessing about some secondhand one from someone you don't know.

I don't think reliability can be judged after all these years; don't forget we are talking in some cases about pre-war cameras. That means over 80 years old and what the previous owners did and didn't do with them is very important but there's no way of knowing about it. When all's said and done it's a bit of a lottery.

Regards, David

 

[silverhalidedreamer]

Why? This is comparing apples and mangoes. If it comes down to you only being able to afford one camera at a time, of course, pick the camera that you feel fits with you the best BUT, make sure you either pick a very reliable camera, or have the resources available to get the camera you choose repaired.

Phil Forrest

How do I assess reliability?

I prefer to buy from well established entities, like KEH, that provide a warranty for a few months, and that have repair facilities.

I would rather pay more up front than wonder how I am going to get a 75 year old camera fixed.

This was never a problem in the past, but the local technician I relied on died a couple of years ago. He would service shutters for me for as little as $30. Those days are gone...

I recall sending a 5x7 slr in the mail to the only guy on the planet who was apparently repairing the focal plane shutter on those things. I don't want to depend on one, 950 year old craftsman to keep my junk goin'.

But KEH does not have what I want. So. Yep.

 

[silverhalidedreamer]

Or buy from a dealer who will guarantee the thing. There are a few about and it's a lot cheaper in the long term than guessing about some secondhand one from someone you don't know.

I don't think reliability can be judged after all these years; don't forget we are talking in some cases about pre-war cameras. That means over 80 years old and what the previous owners did and didn't do with them is very important but there's no way of knowing about it. When all's said and done it's a bit of a lottery.

Regards, David

Precisely.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

How do I assess reliability?

There's just anecdotal evidence and reports of what the most reliable cameras are, which cameras tend to have which problems, etc.
For example:
The Yashica Electro series of rangefinders will often have the "pad of death."
Konica Hexar (AF) will have sticky shutter buttons (and more reliability issues now that the youngest of these cameras is 25 years old)
Pentax LX are known for their "sticky mirror" (easily repaired by a good tech)
Leica screwmount cameras often need shutter curtains and beamsplitters replaced.
Prewar Contax shutter curtain straps will fail.
Virtually every fixed lens rangefinder with a leaf shutter will need servicing to work RELIABLY.
Minolta Autocords need a proper CLA with helicoid servicing lest the user break off the focusing tab.
Pentax ME/Super bodies are starting to have ICs fail.
Most 1980s and 1990s point and shoots should not be considered reliable enough to be your only camera on your once in a lifetime trip to...
The Nikon F2 is possibly the most reliable miniature format camera ever made. Followed closely by the Nikon F then the F3.
Konica Autoreflex SLRs (nor any metered Konica) can't be relied upon to work properly without CLA and battery voltage adjustment.
The list goes on ad-infinitum.

Phil Forrest

 

[Pál_K]

…I recall sending a 5x7 slr in the mail…

5x7 SLR… trying to figure out what this might be…. a Graflex or plate camera of some sort?

 

[Phil_F_NM]

5x7 SLR… trying to figure out what this might be…. plate camera?

Perhaps that most hand-hold-able of cameras, the Press Graflex 5x7?

Phil Forrest

 

[silverhalidedreamer]

5x7 SLR… trying to figure out what this might be…. a Graflex or plate camera of some sort?

It was a 5x7 Graflex RB. I bought it for $200. Had a Bausch and Lomb ....165mm...? Not sure. It was more than 10 years ago.

But yeah. I used to walk around with it and shoot hand held.

I usually used Ultra Edu 100. 1/125 was my friend.

 

[silverhalidedreamer]

Perhaps that most hand-hold-able of cameras, the Press Graflex 5x7?

Phil Forrest

Precisely.

I STUPIDLY sold it BACK to the guy I bought it from...AFTER having shipped it away for several weeks and paying for calibration of the fp shutter.

3 Cameras I bought for nearly nothing that I wish I had kept, but foolishly sold/traded away:

Contax IIIa w/50mm 1.5; Olympus 35 sp (which I bought for $40! on craigslist); and of course, the ($200, WORKING) Graflex 5x7.

STUPID. STUPID. STUPID.

 

[David Hughes]

Part of the problem is that I don't think any of us agree about what the word "reliable" means. I think like Phil meaning "Leica screwmount cameras often need shutter curtains and beamsplitters replaced" as an example.

I would expect parts to fail after a reasonable time, and they have had about 80 years to get to the point where they fail. Tyres on my cars fail after a while but in a much shorter time but I see it as fair wear and tear and not them being unreliable.

So the questions becomes what is reasonable to expect to wear out, what is reasonable use and was the previous owner reasonable? Having sorted that out - if it is possible - we can then consider what a reasonable life span would be.

Once we agree about this we can start the discussion in earnest. And then the availability of parts will come into it and we can gnash our teeth and wail...


Regards, David

 

[leicapixie]

Simply be on lookout for a lens 50~58mm or 35/28 and enjoy the Beseler.
Test the Soligor! It may be cr$p but there are surprises out there!
My 1st 28mm was a Soligor with low contrast but super sharp..
i made a few magazine covers.. A envoirmental portrait of a famous photographer!
It had the "T" mount so it drifted from Pentax 42 to Nikon-F.
Oh! the photographer hated the image because I used that lens..
It was a wonderful image in almost total darkness.. Everybody liked image.

 

[silverhalidedreamer]

Simply be on lookout for a lens 50~58mm or 35/28 and enjoy the Beseler.
Test the Soligor! It may be cr$p but there are surprises out there!
My 1st 28mm was a Soligor with low contrast but super sharp..
i made a few magazine covers.. A envoirmental portrait of a famous photographer!
It had the "T" mount so it drifted from Pentax 42 to Nikon-F.
Oh! the photographer hated the image because I used that lens..
It was a wonderful image in almost total darkness.. Everybody liked image.

I already have an SLR...

 

[Phil_F_NM]

I already have an SLR...

You could have another? Kind of a "tool for the job" sort of thing.
It's not that it's an SLR as much as the Topcon opens up the ability for you to use a different, unique stable of lenses.

I have many cameras, all can be used for general photography, but I use each for specific tasks.
Nikon FA when on walkabout in the city on a sunny day with a wide angle. The meter is fantastic in rapidly changing light.
Nikon F2 when I want to use my fastest and heaviest lenses. I use it for birding, general photography, self defense, and canoe anchor.
Pentax MX with 50/1.4 I use as a general carry camera just to have with. It's almost as small as a screwmount rangefinder.
Leotax T2L with collapsible 50mm f/3.5 Hexar for very lightweight carry everywhere camera.
Nikonos V for intentionally shooting in storms or just carrying literally anywhere.
Nikonos III for the same.
Leica M4 is mostly retired and should get a CLA but it's currently loaded with a roll of Pan F 50, to exploit the unique drawing ability of the 5cm f/2 Super Rokkor.
Konica T3 and T4 give me access to a small collection of Konica AR Hexanons which are amazing.
Tools for the job.

In a nutshell, you can either keep the Topcon to have as a shelf queen, keep it to use it, or get rid of it. Sounds like you don't want it, so then sell it to someone who will use it. Simple as that.

Phil Forrest

 

[silverhalidedreamer]

You could have another? Kind of a "tool for the job" sort of thing.
It's not that it's an SLR as much as the Topcon opens up the ability for you to use a different, unique stable of lenses.

I have many cameras, all can be used for general photography, but I use each for specific tasks.
Nikon FA when on walkabout in the city on a sunny day with a wide angle. The meter is fantastic in rapidly changing light.
Nikon F2 when I want to use my fastest and heaviest lenses. I use it for birding, general photography, self defense, and canoe anchor.
Pentax MX with 50/1.4 I use as a general carry camera just to have with. It's almost as small as a screwmount rangefinder.
Leotax T2L with collapsible 50mm f/3.5 Hexar for very lightweight carry everywhere camera.
Nikonos V for intentionally shooting in storms or just carrying literally anywhere.
Nikonos III for the same.
Leica M4 is mostly retired and should get a CLA but it's currently loaded with a roll of Pan F 50, to exploit the unique drawing ability of the 5cm f/2 Super Rokkor.
Konica T3 and T4 give me access to a small collection of Konica AR Hexanons which are amazing.
Tools for the job.

In a nutshell, you can either keep the Topcon to have as a shelf queen, keep it to use it, or get rid of it. Sounds like you don't want it, so then sell it to someone who will use it. Simple as that.

Phil Forrest

All of that makes sense.

So... I would be more enthusiastic if it were a Konica T3/4, because I really like the glass...

I am a recovering gearhead. I once had 3 Hasselblad bodies with 5 lenses, a Nikon D300, and several 8x10, 5x7, 4x5, 6x9, 6x8 cameras. I even had an 11x14 view camera with a 360 (f 5.6!!!) lens.

Discontinuation of Fuji Neopan 400 essentially ended my interests in photography.

But now I have the itch again...

I cannot afford to do it the way I used to. I must shoot film in order to feel as though it is worth the effort.

Yes, the camera is only a box. Tools are tools.

But a Hasselblad for example, is one HELL of a box. I cannot forget what I have learned...