Travel to Tibet–any tips?

[semordnilap]

Hi! I'm looking to go to Tibet later this year, and I thought I'd ask around...

Has anyone here done it?

Can you recommend any particular place for booking the visas?

I was thinking of going through Kathmandu, but that is not necessary if it is a lot more work.

Is there anything to watch out for? Any ways to keep visa and accommodation costs down?

I'm in the States.

Thanks very much!!!!

 

[ethics_gradient]

Getting a Chinese tourist visa is easy. However, you need a special permit to enter the Tibetan Autonomous Region as a foreigner. I don't think you need to be on a package tour, but check with a Chinese travel agency about it.

In general: wear sunscreen and cover up (long sleeves, a hat, etc) - there's not as much atmosphere between you and the sun at that altitude, so UV rays are stronger. The first couple of days you might want to take it easy and give yourself some time to acclimate to the altitude, maybe hire a guide to take you around or just do some low-key, indoor type stuff. I haven't been to Tibet myself, but was in neighboring Qinghai (also on the plateau, but only 10,000 feet up) a couple summer ago.

You may be interested in taking the train from Beijing (that's how I got to Qinghai), it takes a couple days to get to Tibet but is an interesting journey. There aren't any showers on board, unfortunately. I recommend the hard or soft sleeper class: hard sleeper is open alcoves of 6 bunks (stacked 3 high), soft sleeper is a closed compartment of 4 bunks. "Hard" is nice because you get to meet your neighbors and isn't as uncomfortable as it sounds, "soft" is more expensive but does offer more privacy, if that's your thing. I got stuck in "hard seat" all the way from Beijing to Xining, which was pretty uncomfortable and definitely not recommended.

 

[Pablito]

Book through Windhorse

http://www.windhorsetibet.com/

They are the best. Only TIBETAN tour company licensed by the Chinese Gov't. Avoid the Chinese tour companies.

Do not photograph the Chinese soldiers in Lhasa.

I got bad altitude sickness the first two nights. Try not to fly to Lhasa from sea level.

Be sure to take some CIPRO in case you get food poisoning. And a little jar of Tiger Balm to hold under your nose when you have to go into a public bathroom (the stench is unbelievable...)

When you buy anything be prepared to bargain hard.

Great place, though, great people.

 

[Freakscene]

Agree re sunscreen, ciprofloxacin and guarding against smells. I found putting a Vicks inhaler into each nostril worked. Do not photograph the army wherever you are and be careful photographing bridges or other fixtures and installations of strategic importance. Do not, under any circumstances, fly from sea level to Lhasa. If you take the train up, do not hesitate to use the oxygen if you think you need it.

If you meet trouble in getting into the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), remember that Tibet culturally starts before the borders of the autonomous region and that parts of Qinghai and Sichuan are similar culturally and in terms of landscapes.

Stay safe and have a great time.

Marty

 

[Avotius]

Congrats on your plans, Tibet is a neat place to go to.

Last time I checked to go there now you must be with a tour group approved by the gov.

You do need a special permit to get into Tibet after you get a chinese tourist visa. This is typically easy once you find the right tour group to go with.

I agree that going with a han chinese owned tour group is not a good idea. Han chinese are typically very rude on tours so stay clear away.

Cameras in this area typically eat through batteries like nuts, especially digital cameras where you have to find a way to keep your batteries warm or you only get a handfull of shots before it seems the battery dies. Film cameras typically fair better but still have lots of extra batteries.

The sunlight in the area is really strong, take care with your face. Sunscreen and a bandana with a hat that can shade your face and neck are nessesary if you burn easy. Also this means you can take lots of iso 100 film and do ok there but take some 400 or more too because days start early there for people and it can be very interesting.

If you find that you have altitude sickness once you get there you can try a couple things: most decent hotels have a sort of inflatable pillow with heavy air in them, you attach a tube to your nose hospital style then sleep with your head on the pillow, it helps. A better thing is to get local honey and put it in a coke bottle or something that you can carry around and take a swig of it every now and then, this is one of the traditional local cures. Also the honey in that region is the best I have ever had.

Many Tibetans will ask you for a lot of money if you take their photo. They may ask you for 20-30 dollars even! Have a bunch of 10 yuan bills you can pull out one by one because if they see you have several they will complain or yell at you for more. Good luck with being stealthy taking photos there, people watch for tourists taking photos so they can shake em down for cash.

Tibetans are considered peaceful and whatnot but never never never never leave anything in your hotel room and be very cautious outside because there are many many theives there. Many people have thier things stolen while they rest or are on transportation like the train or busses. If you take the train there do not put your camera bag on the rack that most other bags are put on because there is a good chance it will disapear, keep it on you at all times.

If you take the train and get a sleeper dont get the bottom bunk, everyone will sit on it all day and play cards and stuff. The middle bunk is best because you can still see outside and no one will sit on you while sleeping. if you do end up with the bottom bunk sleep with your feet on the inside to keep people away from sitting on you.

 

[marduk]

Awesome trip. I've been in Tibet in 2007 and am somewhat informed about current travel situation. Officially you don't need the permit if you enter by train and visit the Friendship Highway and Lhasa region. In reality the Chinese will try to convince you that you must have a permit to go anywhere in Tibet. You may need it if you exit to Kathmandu though, as there are some checkpoints that might check it in Lhaze, Tingri, Nyalam and Zhangmu. I'm not sure if you can get a permit without having a package tour and a guide. It's worth checking though, I would be hesitant to go on an organized trip second time due to influx of Chinese tourist masses these days. To keep the cost down, some have traveled hitchhiking and sleeping in the tent, some Russians as well have entered Tibet via Mongolia. When you are there, try to visit the canyon nesting source of the Brahmaputra river - some of the best scenery on the Earth. Don't go to the Everest Base Camp until you have adapted to the altitude well.

 

[semordnilap]

Great–thanks for all the info everyone! I'll check out the windhorse tibet agency.

I'm interested in as much freedom as possible, anyway, so I'm wondering if marduk is right and you can go without the special permits and guides with you at all times, at least to Lhasa... I'm interested in having some free time in Lhasa. And of course seeing some of the scenery nearby!

Anyway it looks like traveling from China rather than Nepal will be less expensive and a bit simpler... so we'll see!


Any more tips and recommendations are very appreciated... thanks!