red snapper
Established
First 11 photos are Tri-X shot at 1600-6400 ASA all processed in HC-110 1/100 according to this suggestion. http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?devrow=8775
Must say they came out lot better than I expected:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bolshie
Must say they came out lot better than I expected:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bolshie
steveniphoto
Well-known
i only shoot tri-x @ 1600 now since i do a lot of street and need a faster shutter speed but 12,800 sounds ridiculous.
sniki
Well-known
I couldn't find right now, but somewhere I've read on a thread about a triple-soup developing method for tri-x at 12800, something like first soup in Diafine, then in Rodinal and in the end in a special chemical-recipe.
sniki
Well-known
...finally I've found it:
Pushing Tri-X to 12800
by Larry Dressler
So how do you make Tri-X or any film go to a higher speed and still have shadows even if you have to go to ISO 12800 with it? Well it is not easy but then again it is not that hard. This is a method that will also still give you shadows and keep the highlights from blowing out.
You need to mix this up first: Super Soup*
6 ounces water
24 ml Dektol stock solution
8 ml HC-110 syrup (or 32 ml stock solution)
2 g ascorbic acid
1/2 tsp washing soda (sodium carbonate monohydrate)
2 g potassium bromide (optional) not needed unless your film is old
Water to make 8 fluid ounces.
*variant of original recipe by Donald Qualls
Development process:
Develop in Diafine for the normal 3+3.
Pour out developer and rinse in water for 2 minutes by filling and dumping the tank.
Next you put it in a bath of Rodinal 1+100 for 30 minutes. Agitate for 30 seconds then allow to rest undisturbed (stand development).
Pour out the developer
Add the Super soup. Agitate for 5 seconds, then one inversion every 3-5 minutes for 20-25 minutes
Pour out developer. Stop and fix as normal.
That is how you do it. Your speed is different for every film but this is the baseline. Yes you will see grain with 35mm, but not much more than you would see using a high speed film.
Pushing Tri-X to 12800
by Larry Dressler
So how do you make Tri-X or any film go to a higher speed and still have shadows even if you have to go to ISO 12800 with it? Well it is not easy but then again it is not that hard. This is a method that will also still give you shadows and keep the highlights from blowing out.
You need to mix this up first: Super Soup*
6 ounces water
24 ml Dektol stock solution
8 ml HC-110 syrup (or 32 ml stock solution)
2 g ascorbic acid
1/2 tsp washing soda (sodium carbonate monohydrate)
2 g potassium bromide (optional) not needed unless your film is old
Water to make 8 fluid ounces.
*variant of original recipe by Donald Qualls
Development process:
Develop in Diafine for the normal 3+3.
Pour out developer and rinse in water for 2 minutes by filling and dumping the tank.
Next you put it in a bath of Rodinal 1+100 for 30 minutes. Agitate for 30 seconds then allow to rest undisturbed (stand development).
Pour out the developer
Add the Super soup. Agitate for 5 seconds, then one inversion every 3-5 minutes for 20-25 minutes
Pour out developer. Stop and fix as normal.
That is how you do it. Your speed is different for every film but this is the baseline. Yes you will see grain with 35mm, but not much more than you would see using a high speed film.
Photo_Smith
Well-known
There's no mystery you can develop Tri-x at 3200. I think Rodinal with low agitation or even stand is the only way to get an image.
I meter for the shadows (where I want detail to start) then stop down two stops. My spotmeter only goes to 6400 so if I use a higher EI I need to compensate also.
Here is Ilford 3200 (really a ISO 1000 emulsion) rated at 25,000 EI
Here at a milder 12,800 EI
The trick is to keep the contrast down, I've only ever been able to do this with really weak Rodinal say 1:100 and low agitation.
I meter for the shadows (where I want detail to start) then stop down two stops. My spotmeter only goes to 6400 so if I use a higher EI I need to compensate also.
Here is Ilford 3200 (really a ISO 1000 emulsion) rated at 25,000 EI
Here at a milder 12,800 EI
The trick is to keep the contrast down, I've only ever been able to do this with really weak Rodinal say 1:100 and low agitation.
red snapper
Established
Fascinating. Im all my years as a press photographer working in black and white, mainly Tri-X, never thought that you could get a workable image pushing beyond 1600 ASA.
red snapper
Established
Just scanned this. Tri-X at 12800 or thereabouts, dev in APH09 1/100 for 4 hours, replaced with fresh solution after 2 hours.