Tri-X 400 and rodinal 1:50

Rhodes

Rhodes

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My results:


Light mesured with "eyemeter"








futball









All with Leica IIIc and Jupiter-8, from the forth 1/100 f:11.
 
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Yes, good results I had trouble with Rodinal 1+50 and TriX, at 250. So I went back to HC-110h. I still wasn't 100% happy so I added some Rodinal to the mix. I'm liking the combination, I still have some stumbling to do to get it exactly where I want it, but I think I will get it. Advantages are: low grain, great highlights, midtones where I want them, and HC-110 + Rodinal does the shadows. Here is one:

4175719714_4ed2680e66.jpg
 
charjohncarter said:
Yes, good results I had trouble with Rodinal 1+50 and TriX, at 250. So I went back to HC-110h. I still wasn't 100% happy so I added some Rodinal to the mix. I'm liking the combination, I still have some stumbling to do to get it exactly where I want it, but I think I will get it. Advantages are: low grain, great highlights, midtones where I want them, and HC-110 + Rodinal does the shadows. Here is one:

4175719714_4ed2680e66.jpg
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That looks great. Rodinal alone produces negs that are too grainy in Tri-X.
Could you elaborate a bit on how much HC110 and Rodinal, method etc. ?
 
Carter -- If that shot isn't exactly there yet for you, it must be pretty close. Great tones in the shadows, and I love the bright highlights in the towel (kind of shines -- I take it this could be the Rodinal influence). Very impressive. I would love to get this kind of result.
 
I used Rodinal 1:50 for Tri-X when I had run out of HC-110 but prefer HC-110 ....

Tri-X / Rodinal 1:50

3810038958_5d6a1d55d4.jpg
 
srtiwari and Bingley, yes, I'm still not there, this negative didn't have enough Dmax, but I'm getting there. The highlights, now this is just me, really sparkle with this combination. So for TriX at 250, and this is 35mm, I do HC-110h 500ml and then add 2.5ml of Rodinal (straight from the bottle), 11:30 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, the 3 inversions at 10 and 5 minutes counting down, at 68 degrees F. My problem is I use so many different cameras I'm introducing another variable. I have to do some serious testing. But this little miracle, at least for me, is holding promise. This is 35mm early morning, darn it a new and unknown camera, but I like the shadows and the highlights.

4069672022_60aba5a21e.jpg
 
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I get a very different results with tri-x and rodinal.
I get a much much better contrast something similar to what maddoc posted.

Trix-X @400 Rodinal 1:50 printed on AGFA FB paper

4158345683_4220f350f3_o.jpg
 
Bingley, I used 11m, good agitation during the first 30s and 2 invertions every one minute. I followed the method of on foruner in the thread of the thri-x and rodinal. Even so, I toght that it was a bit grainy.
Maddoc, excelent, want mine to come out like that. And my second film of tri-x will be at 250 for rodinal.
Thanks
 
charjohncarter said:
srtiwari and Bingley, yes, I'm still not there, this negative didn't have enough Dmax, but I'm getting there. The highlights, now this is just me, really sparkle with this combination. So for TriX at 250, and this is 35mm, I do HC-110h 500ml and then add 2.5ml of Rodinal (straight from the bottle), 11:30 minutes, 30 seconds initial agitation, the 3 inversions at 10 and 5 minutes counting down, at 68 degrees F. My problem is I use so many different cameras I'm introducing another variable. I have to do some serious testing. But this little miracle, at least for me, is holding promise. This is 35mm early morning, darn it a new and unknown camera, but I like the shadows and the highlights.

4069672022_60aba5a21e.jpg
Click to expand...

Bravo - great image and fantastic tones. I have never seen anyone with photos that were processed with this combination before - Rodinal and HC110. It is fantastic that you have taken the initiative and tried something different. Alchemy in all its magic!

(I have often seen people on the internet (this forum included) trying Rodinal and XTOL)

I used to use HC110 but couldn't get consistant results as I was measuring inaccurately (my bad habit) - I found the HC110 is a very viscous liquid and more difficult to pour than Rodinal. I might go back and have another go after I have seen your results.

Cheers,
Jaans
 
Huhm Rhodes photos don't seem to have that "bite" and contrast of Rodinal that I often see, wonder why is that?

@ Jaans: How about using a syringe?
 
Hans,

Thanks for that recommendation, actually I just bought one recently. The kind that parents can use to administer dosage for infants etc.

I used to tip my HC110 into a 10ml measuring cylinder and it was hard to do as it was so sticky. I still use that device when measuring Rodinal 1:50 (10ml in a 500ml Jobo) as it is easy. But when measuring out 1:100 I have used the syringe as it is hard to get 5ml as the cylinder only goes up in 2ml increments.

Cheers,
Jaans
 
Rhodes said:
Hmmm, do not know. I used 300ml for one roll in my paterson tank. And used 5,88 ml of rodinal.
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In my experience Tri-X needs to be exposed @ about EI 250 for Rodinal. Also, some of your shots, while in bright light, are of scenes with relatively flat/low contrast.
 
Trius said:
In my experience Tri-X needs to be exposed @ about EI 250 for Rodinal. Also, some of your shots, while in bright light, are of scenes with relatively flat/low contrast.
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When I was trying to get close 100% with Rodinal and TriX, I found that 200-250 was the only way I could get to the shadows I wanted. Then you have to keep adding or subtracting time to get to the midtones (Zone V or gray card). My fumbling around then showed me that reducing agitation (3 inversions per 4 minutes) gave me better highlights. But who knows this is just my experiments, everyone has there own likes and dislikes.

Tmax400 is the film that I like the best with Rodinal (1+50). I did the same messing around as above and was able to keep some highlights (windows full sun) and still get the gray card on the couch correct.

3934888636_fa80628290.jpg
 
Trius said:
In my experience Tri-X needs to be exposed @ about EI 250 for Rodinal. Also, some of your shots, while in bright light, are of scenes with relatively flat/low contrast.
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Well, that my next experiment. I choose iso 400 because my first photos were at low light. The weather was always overcast. My first here, was taken in low light, it was almost 5 o'clock or something, almost nightfall here now.
How can I resolve the "relatively flat/low contrast" issue?
 
Rhodes said:
Well, that my next experiment. I choose iso 400 because my first photos were at low light. The weather was always overcast. My first here, was taken in low light, it was almost 5 o'clock or something, almost nightfall here now.
How can I resolve the "relatively flat/low contrast" issue?
Click to expand...

The simple answer is to extend your development time, but if you are going to lower your EI (ISO) you will have to be careful. Adding two new variables at the same time leaves you not knowing which is doing what. So maybe, stay with 400 EI for now and increase development until you get to where you like. Then you can lower your film speed, (and possibly lower development time). Also, scanners can do funny things with contrast so you might want to read your scanner manual and find out if any auto correction is turned on. Good luck, it takes time, to get to 95% right and then more time for the last 5%.
 
There are shadows present in several of the OP's photos, and they are soft, indicating ample exposure. To increase contrast I would try just increasing development time by about 20 percent.
 
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