darkkavenger
Massimiliano Mortillaro
After seeing Tom inspiring discussion about the classic TX400 and D76 combination, I told myself that it's been too long since I've ran a roll of TX400 through my camera. So I did get a roll of Tri-X, but due to convenience I souped it in Ilfotec LC29 diluted at 1+19.
I was very, very suprised (and pleased) at the results! The film seems to have a warm rendering, especially in low light situations (the Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 50/2 is certainly no stranger to this). I will definitely take TX400 in consideration as my next roll of film. I've been usually running either Fomapan 400 or HP5+. Just as I thought of sharing this with you, I've been checking on my Flickr and I found that I have a rather "large" collection of TX400 frames developed with LC29, however for an unknown reason I seem to have stopped using TX400 in 2007 (effect of 5 month break in France with no BW film availability in my area, probably).
However, much to my chagrin, some "flakes" or "drops" can be seen running through the film... I don't have any photoflo and I used to "squeeze" the film through my fingers to remove excess of water... any advice is welcome to avoid this in the future!
Let me share with you some pictures taken this weekend with this combination. I am curious to hear your feedback and opinions!
I was very, very suprised (and pleased) at the results! The film seems to have a warm rendering, especially in low light situations (the Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 50/2 is certainly no stranger to this). I will definitely take TX400 in consideration as my next roll of film. I've been usually running either Fomapan 400 or HP5+. Just as I thought of sharing this with you, I've been checking on my Flickr and I found that I have a rather "large" collection of TX400 frames developed with LC29, however for an unknown reason I seem to have stopped using TX400 in 2007 (effect of 5 month break in France with no BW film availability in my area, probably).
However, much to my chagrin, some "flakes" or "drops" can be seen running through the film... I don't have any photoflo and I used to "squeeze" the film through my fingers to remove excess of water... any advice is welcome to avoid this in the future!
Let me share with you some pictures taken this weekend with this combination. I am curious to hear your feedback and opinions!
Attachments
pschauss
Well-known
It looks like you have found a good combination. I just looked up Ilfotec LC29 and it appears to be a prediluted form of Ilford's version of HC-110 which is what I use for Tri-X. I prefer it to D76 because it keeps longer and gives me better contrast.
darkkavenger
Massimiliano Mortillaro
Peter, thank you for your comment. I switched from D76 to LC29 a few years ago because I develop very irregularly and the preparation of D76 doesn't suits my needs. I had nice results with D76, but I am equally satisfied with LC29, and I save myself the hassle of mixing the powder (I can be clumsy at times!).
Ronald M
Veteran
I prefer the finer grain of D76.
Suggestion. Ei 200 Equivalent of 1:45 from HC110 stock. 4.5 min invert & twist twice two times each 30 sec. 5 min for a diffusion enlarger.
Drop the loaded reel into the tank prefilled with developer and agitate 30 sec.
Dilution is B reduced by 50%, ie 1:32 use 1:45. B was too fast development and unofficial h gave too much grain. I split the difference.
The tank should be empty at end of development time. I start the pour out at 15 sec to go and start when I drop the reel. The technique is set the clock to 5 sec extra, start it count 5 drop the reel with right hand and have the cap in the left. I mention this because timing is critical with this short a time.
You get lots of shadow detail & fine grain, normal contrast. For your test, make 6 exposures and pull out 12 " from the can in the dark. Mark your bench with tape marks.
Suggestion. Ei 200 Equivalent of 1:45 from HC110 stock. 4.5 min invert & twist twice two times each 30 sec. 5 min for a diffusion enlarger.
Drop the loaded reel into the tank prefilled with developer and agitate 30 sec.
Dilution is B reduced by 50%, ie 1:32 use 1:45. B was too fast development and unofficial h gave too much grain. I split the difference.
The tank should be empty at end of development time. I start the pour out at 15 sec to go and start when I drop the reel. The technique is set the clock to 5 sec extra, start it count 5 drop the reel with right hand and have the cap in the left. I mention this because timing is critical with this short a time.
You get lots of shadow detail & fine grain, normal contrast. For your test, make 6 exposures and pull out 12 " from the can in the dark. Mark your bench with tape marks.
SimonSawSunlight
Simon Fabel
this is exactly the combination I have used for ~90% of my work of the last 2 years. check out my flickr, deviantart, portfolio or my "this is my street" blog for sample pictures =)
thanks for posting this, I felt alone!
thanks for posting this, I felt alone!
SimonSawSunlight
Simon Fabel
ps:
I use it with tap water, 6.5-7min at ~20°C/room temperature (I don't use a thermometer), no stop bath or anything else except the fixer of course.
I use it with tap water, 6.5-7min at ~20°C/room temperature (I don't use a thermometer), no stop bath or anything else except the fixer of course.
darkkavenger
Massimiliano Mortillaro
Well Simon, you're definitely not alone!! That's comforting to read 
I use very similar times, tap water, no thermometer. I use the 1+19 solution three times. 1st use: 6.5 minutes, 2nd use 7 minutes, 3rd use 7.5 minutes. Then 1 minute in Fomacitro at 1+19, then 3 minutes in Fomafix at 1+5.
That photo of the dog is brilliant, he looks almost human
I use very similar times, tap water, no thermometer. I use the 1+19 solution three times. 1st use: 6.5 minutes, 2nd use 7 minutes, 3rd use 7.5 minutes. Then 1 minute in Fomacitro at 1+19, then 3 minutes in Fomafix at 1+5.
That photo of the dog is brilliant, he looks almost human
__hh
Well-known
Similar here. However, I do mine at 1:29 ratio for 9 mins. I don't bother with reusing my developer either (hence the higher dilution). No other chemicals apart from fixer and a bit of detergent (photo flow?) in my last wash cycle. Drip dry without any squeegeeing.
Tri-X/Arista Premium 400 and LC29 is the combo I have used in the last 2-3 years. Very reliable and will tolerate my no-fuss approach to film development (my times/concentrations/temperatures fluctuate a fair bit, but always tend to get good enough results).
With my recent acquisition of a Nikon 4000 with a roll film adapter that will allow me to scan one whole role of film with one touch of a button, I think that I'll be doing a lot more film shooting from now on. My Epson V700 and the 35mm ANR glass inserts will need to look for a new home.
PatrickT
New Rangefinder User
As I'm going to start developing my own film, and will be using Tri-X and Plus-X for the most part, I think I'll give this combo a try!
darkkavenger
Massimiliano Mortillaro
Hunghang, I was wondering what kind of detergent are you using? hand wash soap? when do you add it? how much do you add?
PatrickT, good luck, I'm sure you'll enjoy this combo
PatrickT, good luck, I'm sure you'll enjoy this combo
__hh
Well-known
Hi Max,
Some people just use a drop of dishwashing detergent to loosen up the surface tension of the water.
I use the proper Ilford detergent equivalent - called Ilford Ilfotol Wetting Agent.
It comes in a 1L bottle, and I use about 4 mL for every 900mL mix (they recommend a mix ratio of 1:200).
I paid about $30 AUD for a bottle. Pricey for a bottle of detergent, but I guess the amount needed makes the cost irrelevant - this bottle will last me years.
Some people just use a drop of dishwashing detergent to loosen up the surface tension of the water.
I use the proper Ilford detergent equivalent - called Ilford Ilfotol Wetting Agent.
It comes in a 1L bottle, and I use about 4 mL for every 900mL mix (they recommend a mix ratio of 1:200).
I paid about $30 AUD for a bottle. Pricey for a bottle of detergent, but I guess the amount needed makes the cost irrelevant - this bottle will last me years.
Ljós
Well-known
Patrick, much as I love Ilford, since you are located in the US, and since Kodak HC-110 is the "original" and Ilfotec the "knock-off", and cheaper to boot (in the US)... it would make an awful lot of sense for you to use HC-110.
The biggest treasure trove on HC-110 information is here:
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
While HC-110 and LC29 are not EXACTLY the same, they are considered close enough as not making a difference for all practical purposes.
All the best, Ljós
darkkavenger
Massimiliano Mortillaro
Thank you. I used to go for Ilfotol some years ago, once again I probably stopped using it while in France due to inavailability in my area. I will go have a look at that, meanwhile I will try my next roll with detergent
darkkavenger
Massimiliano Mortillaro
Thanks for the interesting link, I need to read this more in detail... maybe something new to learn here