teddy
Jose Morales
Hi all, for the first time I tried some Tri-X 400 on 35mm. I could not believe how I was hiding under a rock for years seeing how charming grain and lovely tonality this film gives. Not the sharpest, but still lovely and "retro", specially under semi stand development.
What can any of you recommend that is similar to Tri-X 400? I have read that Arista Premium 400 is basically Tri-X 400, or am I wrong? Any suggestions? If you have any photos with your suggested film, please upload!
Here are some I took last month.
Leica M3, Summicron 90/2 (1959), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
Leica M3, Summicron 90/2 (1959), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
Leica M3, Summicron 50/2 DR (1957), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
Leica M3, Summicron 50/2 DR (1957), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
What can any of you recommend that is similar to Tri-X 400? I have read that Arista Premium 400 is basically Tri-X 400, or am I wrong? Any suggestions? If you have any photos with your suggested film, please upload!
Here are some I took last month.
Leica M3, Summicron 90/2 (1959), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
Leica M3, Summicron 90/2 (1959), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
Leica M3, Summicron 50/2 DR (1957), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
Leica M3, Summicron 50/2 DR (1957), Tri-X 400TX, Orange Filter
Chris101
summicronia
There is no equivalent to trix. Lots of fine 400 films, but trix is unique.
The word latitude was adapted to photography to describe trix.
The word latitude was adapted to photography to describe trix.
mfogiel
Veteran
Do not abuse the orange or red filters, if you want, a light or medium yellow or yellow-green will give you great tonality without boosting the contrast too much. Try it in D 76 1+1, and then see if you like it. Arista Premium 400 IS Tri X, but apparently they are running out of stock and only 24 frame rolls are available.
Grahamb
Member
Used T/X for years, never found anything else, to answer the question, if you want t/x use t/x easy
angelopartemi
SnakeFace
Arista Premium 400 pushed to 1600.
angelopartemi
SnakeFace
I prefer Tri-X.
craygc
Well-known
Hmmm, depends at what point you enter its lineage! Tri-X changed a few years back and now resembles something closer to the original TMax 400 and with less grain than the Tri-X of the Golden Days of Journailsm. The previous Tri-X today is more closely resembled by Ilford's HP5+.
Here are 2 examples of HP5+ shot at 640. The first is 645 and the second is 135
teddy
Jose Morales
Awesome, thank you for your recommendation. I always have I green/yellow filter stuck on my Summicron, but I thought I could get stronger skies with the orange. And I will try your D 76 1+1 suggestion when I can.
teddy
Jose Morales
Hmmm, depends at what point you enter its lineage! Tri-X changed a few years back and now resembles something closer to the original TMax 400 and with less grain than the Tri-X of the Golden Days of Journailsm. The previous Tri-X today is more closely resembled by Ilford's HP5+.
Here are 2 examples of HP5+ shot at 640. The first is 645 and the second is 135
Lovely images, I can see the shadows are very similar to Tri-X. What developer did you use by the way? I will make an order for 120 and 35mm from Freestyle soon. Would love to try in on my Hassy.
craygc
Well-known
These were developed in DD-X (slightly expensive but...), which is a speed enhancing developer that really seems to suit HP5 at an EI of 640
--------------
BTW, this is an example modern Tri-X at 400 and an orange-red filter in XTOL
Grahamb
Member
This one is an image from the local steam museum, dev in Tmax
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I have gotten great photographic results from Tri-X in D-76 1+1 or Rodinal 1+50; Tmax 400 in D-76 1+1, Tmax Developer, and PMK Pyro; and Ilford HP5 in PMK Pyro. All of these combinations are different in grain, speed, and tonality, but all will gove great results if you take the time to master the film you choose. The only one made today that I have not really liked was Fomapan 400; it is too grainy and the tonality is not as good as the Kodak and Ilford films.
If you like Tri-X, keep using it. Kodak still makes it and buying it will keep it in production. As some others have said, it looks best in D-76 1+1. If you like grain and a harsher tonal rendering, try Rodinal 1+50. Tmax Developer gives good results if you want a liquid developer with similar grain to D-76, but I like the tonality a little better with D-76
If you like Tri-X, keep using it. Kodak still makes it and buying it will keep it in production. As some others have said, it looks best in D-76 1+1. If you like grain and a harsher tonal rendering, try Rodinal 1+50. Tmax Developer gives good results if you want a liquid developer with similar grain to D-76, but I like the tonality a little better with D-76
Grahamb
Member
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Here are a couple of Tri-X shots, 35mm film, developed in Rodinal 1+50. My developing time is 11 minutes at 68 degrees (20), and I expose the film at EI-320.
As you can see, Rodinal gives a gritty texture and tone to the image. I usually use D-76 1+1 for Tri-X, but the Rodinal look is one I go for at times, depending on what I am photographing.
Grahamb
Member
I do like that tone, do you think you can get the same effect with tmax 100, as that is what is in my little bessa r at the moment
teddy
Jose Morales
These were developed in DD-X (slightly expensive but...), which is a speed enhancing developer that really seems to suit HP5 at an EI of 640
--------------
BTW, this is an example modern Tri-X at 400 and an orange-red filter in XTOL
Wow, XTOL gives you very high contrast but a CLEAN look. Would be great for super detailed landscapes.
craygc
Well-known
I should at least tell you that this was the 65mm on a Mamiya 7ii. I would also put a lot of the contrast down to the orange/red filter (and post processing).
Jaans
Well-known
Considering you initially said that you were attracted to TRI-X for the charming grain, then XTOL would be the one developer that I would avoid with this film.
As others have mentioned, the formula of TRI-X has changed over the years so it no longer produces that mongrel grain that it was famous for when dunked in D76 1:1. If you want to reproduce that look of the original TRI-X then Rodinal would be the go to developer. However, you should expose it at EI:250 or 320 as you will struggle to get an EI:400 with Rodinal. If you are also using a medium yellow filter, then you will have to adjust your exposure again and open a stop to allow for the filter.
So, for hand held street, perhaps TRI-X and Rodinal would give you too low a shutter speed for images on the 'go' - of course depending on your technique.
So, I would recommend Ilford HP5 Plus with D76 1:1. You will be able to expose at EI:400 and will produce images that are similar to the original TRI-X in D76 1:1.
Jaans
Well-known
Forgot to say, that I personally don't like TRI-X in XTOL, as it looks like digital black and white to me and the resulting images seem to lack and perceived depth as there is no prominent grain. In other words 'flat'. It is however a great developer to push with>
teddy
Jose Morales
Here are a couple of Tri-X shots, 35mm film, developed in Rodinal 1+50. My developing time is 11 minutes at 68 degrees (20), and I expose the film at EI-320.
As you can see, Rodinal gives a gritty texture and tone to the image. I usually use D-76 1+1 for Tri-X, but the Rodinal look is one I go for at times, depending on what I am photographing.
Thanks for your help. The developers I use are Rodinal and XTOL, but for everything I use Rodinal 1:100 most of the time. And I do like the grittyness at times, but the number 1 effect I'm after is extended tonality and edge effects. I will get a hold of some D 76 for sure, must try it and see it for myself.
And I can see that you don't get edge effects with this development, they have gritt but also are fairly sharp. Ofcourse, stand or semi stand development gives more tonality and a different grain structure?