TJV
Well-known
Hi all.
It has been several years since I braved the darkroom and turned my back on the yellow lights. After printing my last show, and developing thousands of rolls of film, I just couldn't stand it anymore. But now, after a few million deep breaths, I'm getting back on the horse and returning to my BW roots.
Now, the problem is the industry has changed somewhat in the last few years, at least in New Zealand. Most of the papers and chemicals I used to use I don't see around here anymore. Rodinal, for one. At least I can get some things via special order or the net but that would mean being very organized. So....
I'm going back to shooting readily available Tri-X at around 800 - 1250ISO and will probably have to used one of D76 / ID11, Microphen or Ilford LC29, seeing as that's all I can find locally.
In my experience Microphen would have been the best for pushing but I used to use it with HP5+ and am not sure about how it reacts with TRI-X. Also, I could get hold of Tetenal developers relatively quickly. I'd order it in if it would bring about better contrast and overall results. What would their Emofin powder dev be like with Tri-X?
Anyone have any recommended times, dilutions and combinations with Tri-x to share with a fellow push fiend?
How has the Tri-x formula changed of late? Have dev times and the like changed with revised formulas?
Thanks.
Tim
It has been several years since I braved the darkroom and turned my back on the yellow lights. After printing my last show, and developing thousands of rolls of film, I just couldn't stand it anymore. But now, after a few million deep breaths, I'm getting back on the horse and returning to my BW roots.
Now, the problem is the industry has changed somewhat in the last few years, at least in New Zealand. Most of the papers and chemicals I used to use I don't see around here anymore. Rodinal, for one. At least I can get some things via special order or the net but that would mean being very organized. So....
I'm going back to shooting readily available Tri-X at around 800 - 1250ISO and will probably have to used one of D76 / ID11, Microphen or Ilford LC29, seeing as that's all I can find locally.
In my experience Microphen would have been the best for pushing but I used to use it with HP5+ and am not sure about how it reacts with TRI-X. Also, I could get hold of Tetenal developers relatively quickly. I'd order it in if it would bring about better contrast and overall results. What would their Emofin powder dev be like with Tri-X?
Anyone have any recommended times, dilutions and combinations with Tri-x to share with a fellow push fiend?
How has the Tri-x formula changed of late? Have dev times and the like changed with revised formulas?
Thanks.
Tim
padraigm
Established
Well I just shot a roll of Tri-x pushed to 3200 and developed it in TMAX developer as per instructions. I also shot a roll of Tmax 3200 on the same night and actually took a couple of shots that were identical just so I could compare. Well to be honest in most cases I could not tell the difference. I was very impressed on how well it did.
40oz
...
I just go by Kodak docs regarding Tri-X and D-76. And I couldn't be happier.
"How has the Tri-x formula changed of late? Have dev times and the like changed with revised formulas?"
FWIW, the Kodak tech line is staffed by knowledgeable and helpful people. When I asked about different dev times and possible film re-formulation, I was told that the new dev times are simply an effort to align Tri-X contrast ratios to other Kodak products that adhere to ISO standards. IOW, "new" Tri-X is the same as "old" Tri-X for all practical purposes, but the "new" dev time recommendations are intended to render a slightly different appearance - not better or worse, just tuned to ISO standards and more closely aligned to the recommendations for other Kodak B&W films.
So one could safely use dev times culled from a 1985 handbook, or from a 2008 PDF, and get fine images. The precise cotrast ratio would be different, but the dev times are starting point suggestions only, not inviolable recipes. If you've always developed Tri-X a certain, way, there is no need or reason to change. If you are just starting out with Tri-X, use either the old or new times as a starting point as your images will be fine either way, and you are encouraged to find the time that works best for *you* anyway.
"How has the Tri-x formula changed of late? Have dev times and the like changed with revised formulas?"
FWIW, the Kodak tech line is staffed by knowledgeable and helpful people. When I asked about different dev times and possible film re-formulation, I was told that the new dev times are simply an effort to align Tri-X contrast ratios to other Kodak products that adhere to ISO standards. IOW, "new" Tri-X is the same as "old" Tri-X for all practical purposes, but the "new" dev time recommendations are intended to render a slightly different appearance - not better or worse, just tuned to ISO standards and more closely aligned to the recommendations for other Kodak B&W films.
So one could safely use dev times culled from a 1985 handbook, or from a 2008 PDF, and get fine images. The precise cotrast ratio would be different, but the dev times are starting point suggestions only, not inviolable recipes. If you've always developed Tri-X a certain, way, there is no need or reason to change. If you are just starting out with Tri-X, use either the old or new times as a starting point as your images will be fine either way, and you are encouraged to find the time that works best for *you* anyway.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
try DDX or Xtol... way better
Carlo
Member
I use Tri-X at 1600 with D-76 stock solution. I develop at higher temperature than specified (29 °C) for 7 mins. I usually wait 1 day after preparation of the stock before I use it, maybe is just a feeling, but it seems to be somehow better.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
It's really time for me to try another developer for my slower films, but Diafine and Tri-X at 1250 is woooooonderful.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Technically, of course, it's not ISO but EI (ISO criteria of contrast and speed are not met). This may seem pedantic but it's a useful reminder that you can't get something for nothing.
True ISO of Tri-X in DD-X is over 650 so you're only looking at a 1-stop push instead of (say) 1-1/2 stops in D76.
My wife shoots a lot of Tri-X and I shoot a lot of HP5 and both behave beautifully with the same dev. régime in DD-X.
Cheers,
R.
True ISO of Tri-X in DD-X is over 650 so you're only looking at a 1-stop push instead of (say) 1-1/2 stops in D76.
My wife shoots a lot of Tri-X and I shoot a lot of HP5 and both behave beautifully with the same dev. régime in DD-X.
Cheers,
R.
TJV
Well-known
Thanks all.
Roger: What times and temp would your wife use with D-76 if she was pushing to ISO/EI? 1600?
Roger: What times and temp would your wife use with D-76 if she was pushing to ISO/EI? 1600?
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I feel the same way when mixing a fresh bottle of D-76 stock solution...
It usually clears by the next day and has cooled down too...
lZr
L&M
I am with Ronald and go with TriX @1200 in Diafine. Both are born for this idea. Worth to try this combo
Roger Hicks
Veteran
40oz
...
see Kodak's PDF for Tri-X and the one for D-76. It's at kodak.com under All Businesses -> Pro Photographer and Lab, under Products.
Tri-X: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...f4017/f4017.jhtml?id=0.2.26.14.15.18.14&lc=en
Per the Tri-X pdf, 9.5 minutes in straight D-76, 13.25 minutes mixed 1+1. At 68F/20C.
PS: I'm obviously not Roger's wife, but I have shot a fair amount of Tri-X at 1600 in D-76 1+1. And I usually use the Tri-X pdf for reference. You do have some latitude, however. If you are missing something in the shadows and don't have any more aperture or shutter, dev for longer. If your highlights are getting blown in every shot but there is plenty of detail in the shadows, decrease dev time.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
There could be no better advice. I can add only one thing, which is that 15 second variations are not very meaningful at 10-minute-plus dev times. If you follow the advice to vary dev times, I'd add or subtract a minute or so -- or at least, go to 12'30" or 14', if you want to see a meaningful variation.
Manufacturers' dev. times are ALWAYS the best starting point. After all, they want you to get the best results with their materials. As a friend from Ilford said, "Why would we give deliberately misleading times? Spite?"
Cheers,
R.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Roger's wife, a few months ago, wrote a very good article on 'pushing.' I think it was in B&W, but a could be wrong. She is a contributer to a magazine, so it shouldn't be too hard to find. I enjoyed the article even though I never push film, and she writes very clearly.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
My experience is limited to tri-x in diafine...but I have to say I love the results and ease of use.
