Merelyok
Well-known
First time having a go with this combination. I've used Tri-x with ilfotec DDX and T-max and while it comes out nice and smooth, it doesn't quite tickle my fancy because of that very fact.
The HC-110 Dil. b combination seems to do the trick.
With tri-x pushed one stop, i souped it for 6 mins @ 20c, 30 sec initial agitation with 2 inversions thereafter for every minute.
I really like the results im getting, with nice grain, sharpness and contrast.
These are the results with very, very minmal adjustment after scanning on a Canoscan 8800f.
(Pardon the dust, but i really like the grain on this)
Maybe i'll finally get down to trying some D76 next!
The HC-110 Dil. b combination seems to do the trick.
With tri-x pushed one stop, i souped it for 6 mins @ 20c, 30 sec initial agitation with 2 inversions thereafter for every minute.
I really like the results im getting, with nice grain, sharpness and contrast.
These are the results with very, very minmal adjustment after scanning on a Canoscan 8800f.






(Pardon the dust, but i really like the grain on this)
Maybe i'll finally get down to trying some D76 next!
naruto
GASitis.. finally cured?
Try dilH next time. I have had very good results with dilH ad TriX at 1600. The midtones are nicely spaced out, and the grain has very nice structure for 8x10 prints on a Grade 2 paper.
John Bragg
Well-known
Hi Merelyok.
6 minutes would be near the normal dev time for Tri-X @ 400 for many folks. The technical sheet for this film states that 800 requires no more since it is within the latitude of the film and you have proved that to be true. Nice pics...
6 minutes would be near the normal dev time for Tri-X @ 400 for many folks. The technical sheet for this film states that 800 requires no more since it is within the latitude of the film and you have proved that to be true. Nice pics...
capitalK
Warrior Poet :P
HC-110 is my next experiment with TRI-X after trying Ilfosol-3 and Rodinal. Thanks for posting, it's getting me excited to try.
cjm
Well-known
Try dilH next time. I have had very good results with dilH ad TriX at 1600. The midtones are nicely spaced out, and the grain has very nice structure for 8x10 prints on a Grade 2 paper.
What time are you using for 1600 in Dilution H? I'm usually around 15min with Dilution B (depending on the tempurature of course).
calexg
Established
Love the third pic!
charjohncarter
Veteran
Some day you should try TriX at box or even 2/3 a stop down with HC-110. Wonderful full tones, smooth feel, but still the midtone contrast that I like:

naruto
GASitis.. finally cured?
What time are you using for 1600 in Dilution H? I'm usually around 15min with Dilution B (depending on the tempurature of course).
I go for a semi-stand development for TX400@1600 in dil H. I think my timings were around 25~27 mins @ 20degC. I do a pre-wash with water @ 20degC for 5 mins. The agitation proceedure I follow is 2 slow inversions every 2 mins.
For dil B to dil H timings, I normally double the timings and go for semi-stand development. The compensation of the timing is due to the fact I live in a very hot environment, and the water tends get warm pretty fast. I see a 1~2 deg rise in temperature of the developer soup if the timing is greater than 15 mins. I just like to call the method semi-stand, it's much more like normal development, except I agitate slower.
naruto
GASitis.. finally cured?
Some day you should try TriX at box or even 2/3 a stop down with HC-110. Wonderful full tones, smooth feel, but still the midtone contrast that I like:
That's beautiful John. I shoot at 2/3 stop below only if I am developing with Rodinal or Perceptol. Xtol gives very nice tones at box speed too.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Thanks, naruto, try it. There is a 'Bisquick (SP?)' smoothness (that someone on this forum was repulsed by) that I really like. But personally, I don't really find individual developers that different, as long as you 'zero' in on the contrast you want. One caveat: two bath for me, anyway, raises shadow detail.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Hi Merelyok.
6 minutes would be near the normal dev time for Tri-X @ 400 for many folks. The technical sheet for this film states that 800 requires no more since it is within the latitude of the film and you have proved that to be true. Nice pics...
Hmmm. With Tri-X and HP5+ I am homing in on 640-800 as 'normal' speed. Then I get the contrast I am looking for. Might be that I want negs for scanning, I do not print in the darkroom.
Here's a shot made with HP5+ @800 in HC-110 solution 'B':

John Bragg
Well-known
Great shot Ronald. Lovely tones.
DGA
Well-known
Interesting, I treat Tri-X in HC-110 (B) as well, but differently:
I like it rated at 640 and soup it for 11min in 20°C with 10 seconds of good agitation every minute.
I really like the contrast of it and the way it prints and scanned.
BTW - I use the European version of this developer (not that is makes a difference, but it just might)
I like it rated at 640 and soup it for 11min in 20°C with 10 seconds of good agitation every minute.
I really like the contrast of it and the way it prints and scanned.
BTW - I use the European version of this developer (not that is makes a difference, but it just might)
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