TriX @ 1600 in Diafine

[RF-Addict]

On that same roll of TriX that I used for the blacksmith I also had some outdoor shots and the mx shutter speed on my Nikon was 1/1000, so I turned down the ISO to 200 and just took the shot. The negs are printable and don't look bad once adjusted in PS. I am a converted fan of Diafine and TriX - love it. It is soooo forgiving and gives you so much lattitude with TriX.

 

[kaiyen]

I agree that the negatives aren't thin - but they are flat.

You have actually decent shadow detail on the walls of...whatever that is (corridor? some kind of tunnel?) even on the negative. But, as is usually the case with divided developers and especially with Diafine, you get very low contrast.

I think shadow detail is remarkable, especially since I agree that 1600 is about 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop faster than one can really get out of TXT.

allan

 

[lZr]

Thanks All. You are very helpful. In time I also deduced that my negative is flat.

 

[titrisol]

I see you wanted more contrast, in that case you'll need to shoot as 800

Another thing you could try is double diafine bath
A -> B -> Water rinse so not to contaminate
then A->B->stop bath
Don't know how much that would help though

 

[lZr]

titrisol, I don't think after B you can A again. Dil A is sticky on film. Dil B cleans.
Also, I think stop phase is meaningless. After 3 min of B there is nothing to stop. It is already dead end.

 

[charjohncarter]

I saw that video, that guy had a ponytail. He also doesn't use a meter.

 

[lZr]

Yes, he is. I didn't take him seriously

This one is simpler. It was sunny day

 

[RF-Addict]

Lazar - how do you agitate - if that even makes any difference with Diafine. I agitate once when I fill the drum and then just once every minute. After three minutes I am done, because as you correctly state, there is nothing else to do for Diafine A or B.

 

[lZr]

Lazar - how do you agitate - if that even makes any difference with Diafine. I agitate once when I fill the drum and then just once every minute. After three minutes I am done, because as you correctly state, there is nothing else to do for Diafine A or B.

I did as stated in the broshure:
30 sec in the first minute gently, then 2 slow inversions every minute.

 

[charjohncarter]

lZr, I concur with Kaiyen (I think that's who said it), you have really sufficient shadow detail. In fact, for 1600 an amazing amount. If anything, everyone that pushes will be using the "ponytail method." For me all you would have to do on the normal images is lighten the shadows a little. Then try the 3 minute baths next time.

 

[lZr]

Ok charjohncarter. I will. I don't think Diafine is able to commit any push from outside. It is targeted on availability of emulsion. The time needed to stick to emulsion on film and clear the sticky chemistry (B phase) is all that we see. If pushing outside (not by Diafine) means more emulsion left on the celluloid, than A phase finishes faster, but not before 3 minutes. Anything else is guessing by me

 

[titrisol]

lZr, yes you can actually redo the treatment with A and B, that is why you have to rinse in between to avoid contamination of A
The result is more contrast (diafine is low contrast ahyhow) and the addtional steps do not develop the highlights much more.

 

[lZr]

Thanks titrisol

 

[Abbazz]

Lazar, if you find your negatives too thin at 1600 ISO, just forget the marketing hype and expose your Tri-X at 400 ISO, you will be surprised.

Cheers,

Abbazz

 

[lZr]

Abbazz, I like to be surpised. I'll. Thanks