TRIX 3200 isos rodinal 1+100 souped for 2h30

[le vrai rdu]

Le vrai has posted some quality photos with helpful technical information. Just the type of thing that makes this site valuable. So I say "thank you" to him.

You're welcome



I had a lot of fun trying this, I will go higher in sensibility untill it doesn't work

 

[kaiyen]

Film latitude doesn't really change when you push film. Rather, you increase contrast by the combination of underexposure and overdevelopment. By definition, you sacrifice your highlights, usually blowing them out, in order to get usable midtones.

 

[le vrai rdu]

voilà, I have some more pictures, I rescanned for I forgot last ime to switch it back to "tiff"

 

[pipal]

very good, le vrai. thank you for sharing the results.

 

[vicmortelmans]

Stand development and fixing problem?

Stand development and fixing problem?

I did a 1600ISO Tri-X in Rodinal 1+100 for 45 minutes stand development yesterday. (actually, the 1600ISO is not accurate, since I used a Zorki1 without meter and in-room illumination...). Looking at the negatives, most shots look OK, but obviously, exposure variance is high.

Only one problem: there's an area of brown color shift in the middle of the negative strip. I had this before, when using exhausted fixer by accident, but I tested my fixer with an undeveloped film lead and it's clear within 1 minute, so my fixer should be OK, right?

My guess is that Tri-X requires extra-long fixing. Or can this be related to the long development time? I can imagine that the negative gets more soaked with developer than when developing for normal development times of ~10 minutes. Can remaining developer agent cause this brown color shift? Should I just fix longer, or is there another remedy?

Groeten,
Vic

 

[le vrai rdu]

I did a 1600ISO Tri-X in Rodinal 1+100 for 45 minutes stand development yesterday. (actually, the 1600ISO is not accurate, since I used a Zorki1 without meter and in-room illumination...). Looking at the negatives, most shots look OK, but obviously, exposure variance is high.

Only one problem: there's an area of brown color shift in the middle of the negative strip. I had this before, when using exhausted fixer by accident, but I tested my fixer with an undeveloped film lead and it's clear within 1 minute, so my fixer should be OK, right?

My guess is that Tri-X requires extra-long fixing. Or can this be related to the long development time? I can imagine that the negative gets more soaked with developer than when developing for normal development times of ~10 minutes. Can remaining developer agent cause this brown color shift? Should I just fix longer, or is there another remedy?

Groeten,
Vic

I fixed for 10 minute for my fix is getting "old" so I can't really answer to your question

 

[kaiyen]

brown? could it be bromide drag?

underfixing usually is a milky tone.

 

[pipal]

I fixed for 10 minute for my fix is getting "old" so I can't really answer to your question

Hi,
for what I know, it does not work this way. The fixer should either be ok and work (provided you soup the film for enough time, which can vary depending on fixer type and/or dilution), or is exhausted and does not work well. In that case, extending the souping time does not help much.

 

[le vrai rdu]

Hi,
for what I know, it does not work this way. The fixer should either be ok and work (provided you soup the film for enough time, which can vary depending on fixer type and/or dilution), or is exhausted and does not work well. In that case, extending the souping time does not help much.

fixing a longer time compensate the loss of "power"of the fix as it is more and more polluted each time used





I am souping a 12500 iso trix right now

 

[pipal]

I did a 1600ISO Tri-X in Rodinal 1+100 for 45 minutes stand development yesterday. (actually, the 1600ISO is not accurate, since I used a Zorki1 without meter and in-room illumination...). Looking at the negatives, most shots look OK, but obviously, exposure variance is high.

Only one problem: there's an area of brown color shift in the middle of the negative strip. I had this before, when using exhausted fixer by accident, but I tested my fixer with an undeveloped film lead and it's clear within 1 minute, so my fixer should be OK, right?

My guess is that Tri-X requires extra-long fixing. Or can this be related to the long development time? I can imagine that the negative gets more soaked with developer than when developing for normal development times of ~10 minutes. Can remaining developer agent cause this brown color shift? Should I just fix longer, or is there another remedy?

Groeten,
Vic

I do not think that the tri-x needs significantly more fixing time than other films. I would guess it is an exhausted fixer, although your checks doens not say so. In any case refixing the film in fresh fixer will tell you more.

 

[pipal]

fixing a longer time compensate the loss of "power"of the fix as it is more and more polluted each time used





I am souping a 12500 iso trix right now

Aha! I rather prefer to use the fixer for the number of roles recomended by manufacturer and then I go for a fresh one. No reason to save here it's not that expensive compared to the price of other stuff (film, developer, proper photo .

I am curious about your results from 12500. good luck!

 

[bmattock]

Diafine is a different beast. It is a two-part developer that activates (superaddivity) when part A has been absorbed into the film emulsion, and part B brings the superaddivitiy. When there is no more Part A for part B to work on, development stops - longer times will change nothing. Hence, Diafine is not a developer to use as a stand developer. It develops to exhaustion.

However, it is a compensating developer, which is what is hoped for with stand developing in Rodinal at 1+100 to 1+200 and so on. It tends not to blow out highlights or block up blacks, even though otherwise the exposure might have exceeded the latitude of the film.

There is no free lunch. Extended development times increase apparent ISO at the expense of grain, accutance, and local contrast. But all of photography is a trade-off. When you need to shoot at f/2.8 in near total darkness, it may be the only way to go. Careful stand development in the hands of someone experienced with it (I am not) can minimize negative effects - no pun intended.

 

[dpetrzelka]

The brown sounds like it has more to do with your extended development time rather than a fixing problem.

My under fixed Tri-X usuall has a pronouced purple haze, not brown.

I'm not very well versed in this but I think you might need to add some Potassium Bromide as a restrainer for these long development times to help cut down that fogging (many other are more qualified to help you fix the problem).

 

[Roger Vadim]

Only one problem: there's an area of brown color shift in the middle of the negative strip. I had this before, when using exhausted fixer by accident, but I tested my fixer with an undeveloped film lead and it's clear within 1 minute, so my fixer should be OK, right?


Vic

most likely "underfixed". I had that problem with Neopan 400 and Tri-x, both need (IMO) a reasonable longer fixing time than the usual: clearing time x 2 thingy.

since I expanded my fix time to 7 minutes (normal Adox "rapid" Fixer) I never experienced these problems (middle of the film brownish/ white). Fixing the filmstrip again for 2-3 minutes is getting rid of the stains. Try it, then you know if this was the problem.

cheers, Michael

 

[le vrai rdu]

Trix @ 12500 iso seems to be working, the film is hanging in my bathroom, I will post scan as soon as I can (it is 1 o'clock in the morning here)

I used rodianl 1+100 4h stand dev, I think it would be better to change the bath everu two hours, but I will tell you more as soon as I have scanned

 

[le vrai rdu]

yes , four hours