willie_901
Veteran
After developing 6 rolls of Tri-X exposed at ISO 400 with D-76 1:1, I decided to expose a roll at ISO 800. Now it's time to develop that roll.
Kodak's data sheets say if you expose at 800, just devlop using the 400 time. While one could assume Kodak knows best, I think my current method underdevlops a bit. The shadows can be a bit dark in some negatives. For ISO 400 I use D-76 1:1 for 9:50 at 20 C. I agitate lightly. The grain and contrast are ok. For ISO 800 I think the negatives could be too under exposed.
The Digital Truth chart does not list anything for TriX/D-76 @800.
My question is: how would you develop Tri-X exposed at ISO 800?
Any suggestions for what to do using D-76?
Thanks,
willie
Kodak's data sheets say if you expose at 800, just devlop using the 400 time. While one could assume Kodak knows best, I think my current method underdevlops a bit. The shadows can be a bit dark in some negatives. For ISO 400 I use D-76 1:1 for 9:50 at 20 C. I agitate lightly. The grain and contrast are ok. For ISO 800 I think the negatives could be too under exposed.
The Digital Truth chart does not list anything for TriX/D-76 @800.
My question is: how would you develop Tri-X exposed at ISO 800?
Any suggestions for what to do using D-76?
Thanks,
willie
kaiyen
local man of mystery
willie_901 said:Kodak's data sheets say if you expose at 800, just devlop using the 400 time.
This isn't all that inaccurate, by the way. You could just do this.
I think my current method underdevlops a bit. The shadows can be a bit dark in some negatives.
You got it backwards. If your shadows are coming out too dark you are underexposing. You are not under or overdeveloping.
The grain and contrast are ok. For ISO 800 I think the negatives could be too under exposed.
You can maybe add just 10-15% and you'd probably be fine. Many say to add 20-25% for each stop pushed, but TXT is so forgiving that I'd doubt you'd need more than 15%. But, you won't get any more shadow detail. Again, that is exposure, not development.
allan
erikhaugsby
killer of threads
Well, I sure hope that TriX works at 800 because I've a roll in my M2 right now that I'm exposing at EI 102,400 for a "night" project. I think that I've got the development times nailed (140min in Rodinal 1+50), but you never know 
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Erik,
I presume the smiley is because you aren't really exposing that that EI. There are limits to pushing film. You're well past it.
allan
I presume the smiley is because you aren't really exposing that that EI. There are limits to pushing film. You're well past it.
allan
E_Aiken
Member
TX pushes really easily. I'd probably start at maybe 10:40 for a test roll in D76 1:1. I could see going up a little over 11 minutes if you're at 800 (I usually go 640.) But do not use the same time as 400... if your negs are coming out faint at 9:50 sounds like you're underexposing or have bad water... I go 9:30 and my negs are plenty dense.
erikhaugsby
killer of threads
No, the smiley was in hope that it will actually work, because I really am trying it.
This is purely for fun, and I have absoutly zero idea if anything recognizible will appear. The idea came from a previous thread where someone (can't remember his name) was shooting Tri-X at 12,800. When I saw those pictures and their quality I figured that an extra 3 stops just just just might be remotely possible.
That said, even one slightly recognizible picture from the whole roll would be pretty cool.
This is purely for fun, and I have absoutly zero idea if anything recognizible will appear. The idea came from a previous thread where someone (can't remember his name) was shooting Tri-X at 12,800. When I saw those pictures and their quality I figured that an extra 3 stops just just just might be remotely possible.
That said, even one slightly recognizible picture from the whole roll would be pretty cool.
willie_901
Veteran
Thanks to everyone for their advice.
I think I will add 15% (D-76 1:1, 68 deg.) and see what happens. I will probably aggitate more for the first round and keep to my minimal aggitation method for the rest of the development time.
Thanks again,
willie
I think I will add 15% (D-76 1:1, 68 deg.) and see what happens. I will probably aggitate more for the first round and keep to my minimal aggitation method for the rest of the development time.
Thanks again,
willie
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Erik,
If you think about H&D curves, the bottom line is that you need a certain amount of exposure to get anything on the negative at all. Remember that there is a toe there, even on t-grain and e-grain emulsions. It is not linear at the bottom there. And traditional emulsions like TXT have a longer toe to deal with.
good luck. if you get something, I will be shocked. And, to be honest, question your metering method (no offense intended).
allan
If you think about H&D curves, the bottom line is that you need a certain amount of exposure to get anything on the negative at all. Remember that there is a toe there, even on t-grain and e-grain emulsions. It is not linear at the bottom there. And traditional emulsions like TXT have a longer toe to deal with.
good luck. if you get something, I will be shocked. And, to be honest, question your metering method (no offense intended).
allan
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Can I kill a thread or what? 
allan
allan
willie_901
Veteran
Thanks For Your Advice & Examples
Thanks For Your Advice & Examples
Thanks to kaiyen and E_Aiken regarding how to process Tri-X exposed at 800 in D-76.
I developed a roll at 20 C in 1:1 D-76 for 11 minutes. I agitated for the first 30 seconds and then agitated with 8 inversions every minute thereafter.
I like the results. A few photos follow.
Thanks again for the great advice.
ps photos taken with a Zeiss Ikon M – Canon 50/1.2 with ISO set to 800.
Thanks For Your Advice & Examples
Thanks to kaiyen and E_Aiken regarding how to process Tri-X exposed at 800 in D-76.
I developed a roll at 20 C in 1:1 D-76 for 11 minutes. I agitated for the first 30 seconds and then agitated with 8 inversions every minute thereafter.
I like the results. A few photos follow.
Thanks again for the great advice.
ps photos taken with a Zeiss Ikon M – Canon 50/1.2 with ISO set to 800.
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