Trouble loading a Zorki

[Whateverist]

I've got a Zorki 1 that's acting up. When I load it up with film (using a hand-cut long leader as per the Fedka page's template), it'll go about three-quarters of a wind before the winding suddenly becomes very stiff and then just stops. With the bottom plate off, I can see the spindle that holds the take-up spool still moves, but the spool itself doesn't take on any more film and the teeth just turn and bite into the stationary film.

With no film loaded, the winding action is smooth with or without the take-up spool inserted.

What could be causing this?

(edited because I can't spell after work)

 

[AndersG]

No solutions, but some questions:

It sounds like the take-up spool might get jammed somehow? Or the film?

Is there anything (except the film) poking outside the spool's round top and bottom plates?
Does the spool seat similarly to when there is no film?

 

[Whateverist]

There is nothing poking out of the spool. It seats just as far down on the spindle with or without film, and it doesn't appear to look or behave any different than the spool and camera I used to have before this one.

Is it possible that the end of the leader is detaching from the take-up spool? The tab on the spool holding the end of the leader is a bit flimsy (it's not one of the hook-type ones).

 

[AndersG]

Ok, that sounds similar to the spool in my Zorki 1. Unfortunately, I haven't put a film through it since 2006. :-/

So, it is likely the film really get stuck on something - but if you have cut it nice and smooth according to the instructions that shouldn't happen easily - but that winding becomes stiff points in that direction. The take-up spool would also not stop if the film had slipped from it.

Do you see other damage on the film apart from where the sprockets have torn it?

 

[Whateverist]

Nothing that's immediately obvious.

 

[Dez]

It's almost certainly something catching the film, assuming the takeup and sprocket wheels operate properly. If you trim the film to make a long leader you need to be sure the cut edge is smooth, that it does not go through a sprocket hole, and that there is a clean and preferably slightly curved edge at the end of the cut. Unless you are very careful, trimming the leader can cause more trouble than it solves.

Cheers,
Dez

 

[ihorzu]

is the take-up spool for this type of Zorky? May be it replaced with the other version. Does it fit well to spindle?

 

[wolves3012]

It's possible someone installed the pressure-plate upside down, assuming there's nothing more obvious, or even installed the springs incorrectly so it's jammed.

If you look in the centre of the film slot, using a good torch, you should be able to make out the bevelled edge of the pressure plate. If you see a squared-off edge, that's wrong. Also, you could try inserting some thin card, to see if the pressure-plate moves aside for it. If this shows up a problem, it's pretty easy to fix.

 

[ikondave]

I had a pressure plate issue with my Zorki 1. Film would begin to shred and then become impossible to advance. My seller fixed the problem for free and I had no problem with my next roll.

 

[Whateverist]

Aren't Zorkis supposed to have bandage-shaped pressure plates? This one's round, as is the indentation in the back of the bodyshell. Weird.

Also, now that the shell is off it's pretty obvious it has a nasty dent in the back near the film roll. I'm 99% certain this is where the non-cut part of the film gets trapped. EDIT: Nope, that's not the problem.

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

It might be worth checking the tightness of the take up spool or whatever allows it to slip as the film goes on. If it went on loosely that would build up and trap the spool. I had it happen on a IIIc.

Regards, David

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Yes, it is as it is stated above by Dave.
Here is the info in English.
http://www.dvdtechcameras.com/info/2.htm
Pic 9, leafs (springs) 28.

 

[Whateverist]

Thanks for the info. I've made the adjustment and it's working smoothly now. Guess the dent is just cosmetic.

I'm still a bit confused about the round pressure plate...

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Nice to know it's working OK now.

Interesting link too, thanks Ko.Fe

Regards, David

 

[wolves3012]

Aren't Zorkis supposed to have bandage-shaped pressure plates? This one's round, as is the indentation in the back of the bodyshell. Weird.

I was under the impression all Zorkis had the "bandage" shaped plates, not round. Perhaps the very early ones are round. Firstly, how old is the camera? Secondly, it's possible the shell and plate belonged to a FED originally and it's been swapped. I'm not sure just how easily they can be swapped but it is possible.

 

[Whateverist]

Firstly, how old is the camera?

Supposedly a 1951.

 

[Penny Lane]

I was under the impression all Zorkis had the "bandage" shaped plates, not round. Perhaps the very early ones are round. Firstly, how old is the camera? Secondly, it's possible the shell and plate belonged to a FED originally and it's been swapped. I'm not sure just how easily they can be swapped but it is possible.

I bought a Zorki-1b (pressed-steel shutter crate) some time last year that had a round pressure plate which I exchanged for a bandage shaped one as those have a lip that makes loading easier. The bodyshell accomodated for a bandage-shaped plate, so it's not certain that the round one wasn't a non-original/FED item.

EDIT: I just fished the camera off the shelf to check. It has a Zorki-1C bodyshell with the trim edges along the top & bottom. That's why it accomodates for a more modern plate.

To swap plates, the mechanism has to come out of the bodyshell. Otherwise it's a very easy swap as the pressure plate is not actually attached to anything. This also assures that FED and Zorki plates are, in principle, freely exchangeable.

Derk

 

[Whateverist]

I shot a roll and apart from blur at infinity (rangefinder's probably out of whack) it works fine. Problem solved!

 

[David Hughes]

Wonderful and thanks for the feedback. Always nice to know when things turn out fine.

Regards, David

 

[wolves3012]

To swap plates, the mechanism has to come out of the bodyshell. Otherwise it's a very easy swap as the pressure plate is not actually attached to anything. This also assures that FED and Zorki plates are, in principle, freely exchangeable.

Derk

Didn't word my post very well. Personal experience with FEDs is, the early ones at least, that the screws for the shell are not in a "standard" place. They've probably been drilled & tapped by hand. As a result, I was questioning the feasibility of swapping shells around. I know the pressure plates are easy to get at.