Trouble with framing on Canonet QL17

[lena.87]

I've just printed some shots from my canonet GIII QL17, and the framing seems to be completely out in most of them. I am sure I am shooting within the yellow rectangle. I've only recently bought the camera so I am not wholely confident with it as yet, but how hard can the framing be?! Has this happened to anyone else? And if so what is the solution?!!

Thanks,
Lena

 

[Spyderman]

Hi, haven't seen you here yet, so welcome to the forum.

Regarding your question: Do the framelines move as you focus ? They should move to the right and down a little as you focus closer. This is called paralax correction. If it does not work it might be the source of your problems.

 

[lena.87]

Hey, just checked my cam, and the framelines don't move when I focus, this must be the problem then. Does anybody know how much that would cost to get fixed?

 

[Spyderman]

Just one more quesion: is your camera Canonet QL17 or QL17 GIII ?

This is the older QL17, this is the QL17 GIII.

I just found that both versions should have the parallax correction. The repair should not be very expensive unless there is some major damage inside... But I think it's worth having it repaired. I myself have the newer QL17 GIII and it's a great take-everywhere camera.

 

[Kim Coxon]

It's free if you do it yourself. 🙂 It is relatively easy to take the top off and you should then be able to see the problem.

If you get really stuck, it would be the cost of the return postage from Lincolnshire. 😉

Kim

Hey, just checked my cam, and the framelines don't move when I focus, this must be the problem then. Does anybody know how much that would cost to get fixed?

 

[lena.87]

It's a QL17 GIII. How do you go about fixing it yourself then? Just had a quick scan on the net and can't find any advice on how to do it.
Thanks

 

[Kim Coxon]

The repair manual is on my website here:
http://www.pentax-manuals.com/manuals/service/canonet_giii.pdf

The section on the top is near the start.
Remove the flash synch socket (the inside unscrews and then the main body pulls out.
Remove the holding screw in the middle of the back of the top and the one on the side by the wind lever.
Use a rubber bung or similar to unsrew the collar arround the shutter release and take of the wind levers etc.
Open the back and use something to stop the rewind turning. You can now unscrew the rewind lever.
The top should now lift off. Whilst it is off, it is also worth cleaning the RF and finder windows 😉

The drawings for the finder mech are on page 6 of the manual. Hopefully, the cause should be relatively easy to see. You will se the frameline mask and it is most likely that the link to this has been dislodged.

Kim

 

[Spyderman]

Lena, I would have offered you to repair it, but you'd have to send the camera across half Europe...

PS: Kim, be a gentleman and take care of it for her 😉