Vickko
Veteran
Are there real experiences in turning a RB67 screen into Rolleiflex screen?
From the web searches, it looks like it is the best thing since sliced bread, although comparing the web stories and ebay, the prices for the RB67 screens have gone up.
I'm willing to give it a try, but, would like to hear your real-life stories.
regards
From the web searches, it looks like it is the best thing since sliced bread, although comparing the web stories and ebay, the prices for the RB67 screens have gone up.
I'm willing to give it a try, but, would like to hear your real-life stories.
regards
VictorM.
Well-known
I've used RB screens in all my Rolleiflex cameras, MX, MX-EVS, 3.5E and 2.8D. They are a big improvement over the older stock screens. The only failure was a screen with a microprism centre spot-it just didn't work. I prefer the screens with a plain groundglass centre and grid lines.
Another big improvement for older Rolleiflexes is a new mirror.
I've always wondered how the cheapest, oldest Yashica tlr can have easier and brighter focusing.
Another big improvement for older Rolleiflexes is a new mirror.
I've always wondered how the cheapest, oldest Yashica tlr can have easier and brighter focusing.
nanthor
Well-known
I tried it once and I bungled the job. I might have had the wrong screen to begin with but the one I used had 3 parts if I recall and the part I tried to cut then tried to snap the ends off and then file was hard to work with and the edges ended up not too pretty. I hope you find someone here that will give you specific instructions before you even invest in an RB screen so that you know what you're getting into. Good luck, Bob.
VictorM.
Well-known
Here's a link: http://www.panum.de/rolleiflex_screen.htm
Read down to the comments for some tips to make the job easier.
Read down to the comments for some tips to make the job easier.
rlouzan
Well-known
Yes, I replaced the original 3.5F GG with a used RZ TYPE "A" MATTE screen, no split-image/microprism, from KEH. I couldn't be happier with the results.
What Rollei model?
What Rollei model?
archeophoto
I love 1950's quality
I think that the original Rollei ground glass screens have a bad reputation because people dismiss them to quickly. Yes they are on the dim side, but I find nothing pops into focus better. Brightness is not everything on a TLR screen.
I have a Rolleiflex 2.8 C with an original screen and I experimented with different screens. Since I use that camera mostly for landscapes, I find that the original screen works the best for me. Nothing focuses better.
On one of my Rolleicords I have a Maxwell screen (those are the best of the replacement screens) that I bought used for $50 and while I find it a HUGE improvement with brightness, I find that for pure focusing I prefer the original dim Rollei screen.
Sometimes a new mirror makes more difference for a Rollei TLR then the screen.
Just my 2 cents... Good luck!
I have a Rolleiflex 2.8 C with an original screen and I experimented with different screens. Since I use that camera mostly for landscapes, I find that the original screen works the best for me. Nothing focuses better.
On one of my Rolleicords I have a Maxwell screen (those are the best of the replacement screens) that I bought used for $50 and while I find it a HUGE improvement with brightness, I find that for pure focusing I prefer the original dim Rollei screen.
Sometimes a new mirror makes more difference for a Rollei TLR then the screen.
Just my 2 cents... Good luck!
Beemermark
Veteran
I agree whole heartily. Many people think they can focus better on a bright screen but that is not always true, especially with older cameras with large DOF. Coarse Fresnel screens are dim but the subject literally "pops" into focus. Brighter screens are usually more difficult to find the point of the exact focus / sharpness.
The trick to focusing is not to concentrate on how sharp the image looks but to quickly run the focus back and forth until the subject snaps into focus. Hard to explain but easy to do.
VictorM.
Well-known
For me, changing the screens had more to do with seeing into the corners of the image area than easier focusing.
rulnacco
Well-known
I followed the directions on the Web page mentioned above, and converted an RZ screen for my 2.8F. Has made a huge difference in usability--and only cost me £10 in the bargain. Took about 10 minutes of work, with a steel ruler and sharp craft knife for the trimming.
I used a screen with the split-image rangefinder. I actually oriented it so that the split is in the vertical rather than the horizontal orientation that it is used in the Mamiya cameras--I found it makes it easier to focus on eyes, belts, etc. when shooting people.
It's not a Maxwell screen--but it's a wonderful improvement for a significantly cheaper price.
I used a screen with the split-image rangefinder. I actually oriented it so that the split is in the vertical rather than the horizontal orientation that it is used in the Mamiya cameras--I found it makes it easier to focus on eyes, belts, etc. when shooting people.
It's not a Maxwell screen--but it's a wonderful improvement for a significantly cheaper price.
Rangefinderfreak
Well-known
I took a Hasselblad screen with separate fresnel circle second screen. You just take away the metal edge, then it fits perfectly. The main issue is however too have the eye correction right. I am using the rollei prism. You can screw in or out the lens on the prism for very accurate setting.
Highway 61
Revisited
As usual with some info found on the Internet there are a number of caveats which aren't mentioned and some false bits of news.
The mandatory caveats regard how you will cut the Mamiya screen (you can use either some RB67 or RZ67 screens, no difference at all).
So you must protect both sides of the Mamiya screen with several layers of paper towels put under the screen and under the ruler. You must lock the ruler in place with a vice (don't tight the vice too much) so that the ruler doesn't skate the least bit while cutting - unless you will scratch the Mamiya screen even if there are some paper towels between the ruler and the screen.
Some regular office cutter blades can be used, the trick is to cut the screen with several passes and without applying much pressure on the blade (about 25 passes for each side) and to renew the blade end for the second side. The cleaner cutout, the better (of course the edges must always be sandgritted a little bit but let's not end with ugly messed-up edges after the cutting operation).
Again : carefully protect the screen surfaces on both sides and lock the ruler into place or you will be left with a badly scratched screen.
The cutout line must be drawn on the screen very precisely, if the screen is cut too small it won't stay in place in the Rolleiflex finder chassis.
Some Mamiya screens won't do it : do NOT use some screens designed for macrophoto work, these screens have microlenses inside (same principle as in the Beattie screens) so that the viewing image is indeed very bright but everything always seems to be in focus - not good for a general photography usage with a WL finder.
The best screen is the plain Fresnel "A" screen.
On the Rolleiflexes with removable hoods (E2 - E3 - T - F - Rolleicord V) there is nothing to do for collimating, the thickness of the screen is irrelavant in how the infinity focus works.
On the Rolleiflexes with fixed hoods, you may have to collimate the viewing lens after having installed the new screen. By NO means should it be done by touching up the mirror position. The only way to go is either to adjust the viewing lens collimation or to use some shims between the screen and the clips which hold it on the viewfinder chassis.
The other solution resides in screens sold by Rick Oleson and on which grids are engraved. Those screens are very nice and there is a large choice of grid patterns. Rick makes them available for all Rolleiflexes models.
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html
The mandatory caveats regard how you will cut the Mamiya screen (you can use either some RB67 or RZ67 screens, no difference at all).
So you must protect both sides of the Mamiya screen with several layers of paper towels put under the screen and under the ruler. You must lock the ruler in place with a vice (don't tight the vice too much) so that the ruler doesn't skate the least bit while cutting - unless you will scratch the Mamiya screen even if there are some paper towels between the ruler and the screen.
Some regular office cutter blades can be used, the trick is to cut the screen with several passes and without applying much pressure on the blade (about 25 passes for each side) and to renew the blade end for the second side. The cleaner cutout, the better (of course the edges must always be sandgritted a little bit but let's not end with ugly messed-up edges after the cutting operation).
Again : carefully protect the screen surfaces on both sides and lock the ruler into place or you will be left with a badly scratched screen.
The cutout line must be drawn on the screen very precisely, if the screen is cut too small it won't stay in place in the Rolleiflex finder chassis.
Some Mamiya screens won't do it : do NOT use some screens designed for macrophoto work, these screens have microlenses inside (same principle as in the Beattie screens) so that the viewing image is indeed very bright but everything always seems to be in focus - not good for a general photography usage with a WL finder.
The best screen is the plain Fresnel "A" screen.
On the Rolleiflexes with removable hoods (E2 - E3 - T - F - Rolleicord V) there is nothing to do for collimating, the thickness of the screen is irrelavant in how the infinity focus works.
On the Rolleiflexes with fixed hoods, you may have to collimate the viewing lens after having installed the new screen. By NO means should it be done by touching up the mirror position. The only way to go is either to adjust the viewing lens collimation or to use some shims between the screen and the clips which hold it on the viewfinder chassis.
The other solution resides in screens sold by Rick Oleson and on which grids are engraved. Those screens are very nice and there is a large choice of grid patterns. Rick makes them available for all Rolleiflexes models.
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html
Matus
Well-known
Hi,
I am considering a new screen for my 2.8E (E1) but the above link (linked on several different threads here and over on APUG) does not seem to work - the website has been closed. Does anybody know whether it had been mirrored elsewhere?
lam
Well-known
f16sunshine
Moderator
mmmm…. I don't know. It's a situational thing in my opinion.
I have an RB in one of mine and maxwell in the other.
The Maxwell is the overall better choice as it improves lower light situations.
In bright light the stock ground glass would be my choice. The RB screen is in between in terms of brightness. The texture and appearance of sharp image is better than the maxwell but, I often need a brighter image.
Somewhere I have a side by side comparison with photographs of both Max and RB. I'll look for that and post it here.
I have an RB in one of mine and maxwell in the other.
The Maxwell is the overall better choice as it improves lower light situations.
In bright light the stock ground glass would be my choice. The RB screen is in between in terms of brightness. The texture and appearance of sharp image is better than the maxwell but, I often need a brighter image.
Somewhere I have a side by side comparison with photographs of both Max and RB. I'll look for that and post it here.
Matus
Well-known
Thank you lam. Now I need to find a reasonably priced Mamiya focusing screen.
I am also considering the screen from Rick Oleson - I am wondering how does it compare to Mamiya RB/RZ67 screen.
I am also considering the screen from Rick Oleson - I am wondering how does it compare to Mamiya RB/RZ67 screen.
jammcat
Lick My Lens Cap
I was cycling home from school the other day when a pedestrian walked right into me (against the light). I wiped out with my 2.8C in my bag; it was in a somewhat padded lowepro bag inside my knapsack, but the screen is still cracked, and the plastic locks for the shutter and flash have snapped off. I have an extra RZ67 screen that I was given for free, so I may as well attempt this.
Does anyone know where I can find a video or step by step photo guide for this modification? My poor 2.8C looks quite sorry with a cracked focusing screen.
Does anyone know where I can find a video or step by step photo guide for this modification? My poor 2.8C looks quite sorry with a cracked focusing screen.
Vickko
Veteran
jammcat
Lick My Lens Cap
Thanks, Vick. This seems to be the instructions for a Rolleiflex with a removable hood and with an RB67 screen, but same idea?
I have read that the Rollei models with removable hoods require no adjustment after the new screen is installed, but the models with fixed hood always require you to adjust the focus before re-assembling?
Vickko
Veteran
Yes, same idea.
But as for adjustment after screen installation, I am not quite sure.
I think you have to examine where the focus screen registers, regardless of fixed vs removable hood, and make sure that the replacement screen registers at the same location.
But as for adjustment after screen installation, I am not quite sure.
I think you have to examine where the focus screen registers, regardless of fixed vs removable hood, and make sure that the replacement screen registers at the same location.
Novembersierra
Venice, ITA
Don't be scared, adjusting the viewing lens focus is no big deal even on a 2.8C.
You just need a bit of patience, since it's a work of 15 minutes for someone who knows what he's doing and perhaps half an hour if it's your first time and you want to go slow and make a perfect job. It requires some disassembly, so the risk is up to you, but still, it's hard to mess up.
0 Useful note before start: set F stop to 22 and shutter (uncocked) to B, it makes things easier, at least it did to me. Shutter release in locked position.
1 Take a wooden toothpick and use it to remove the front leather. DO NOT use anything made of metal like tweezers to go beneath the leather, or you'll mar the raised edges of the front fascia/panel.
2 With the toothpick (or two, so you can use both slots) unscrew the chrome rings around the shutter release and PC flash. Both plastic locks will come off, on the flash side remove the metal clip underneath that acts as a spring. Just pull it off down/right.
3 Remove with a correct screwdriver the 6 (brass?) screws under the leather, clean them if some green gunk has formed: self timer lever and M/X switch lever both have a pair of screws holding them, one above the lever, one below. DO NOT touch them if not necessary.
4 Now you can safely remove the front panel/fascia. Do it gently and take note if there are any brass washers on the back of the panel you just removed (sometimes the grease? 'glues' them to it) or (more often) on the lens board. They should be around the holes for the screws you just removed. Their function in merely aesthetic, keeping the front (not the lenses) parallel to the body, nevertheless leave them where they are if you can.
5 Voilà, you can now access the shutter, unscrew the front taking lens cell with just your fingers, but most importantly, fine tune the viewing lens to match the other. To do this you must be sure that infinity focus on the taking lens is reached correctly.
5.1 Once at infinity, you need to loosen the set screw/s that fix in place the viewing lens. On the 2.8C, there are three screws around the lens, one just above it under the flash cable (lift it gently), one at 9 o'clock and one at 5.
LOOSEN JUST ENOUGH (half a turn?) but don't unscrew them completely, it's not needed.
On other models (like Rolleicords) there is a single set screw above the lens but perpendicular to the thread.
5.2 Now simply rotate the lens until the image on the screen is sharp at infinity, use a strong magnifier to be sure you're nailing it. Techs use collimators, but not everyone has one handy and our eyes can be quite good too.
6 Done, now follow these steps backwards and you're set.
The only thing I'd be concerned is regluing the leather, it might be the right chance to refresh your camera by ordering a new kit from the well known sources.
I hope this post is not too much OT and useful to anyone who wants to replace the screen on his flex, if you have questions just drop me a PM.
I bought a lightly scratched mamiya screen off ebay for real cheap and thought I might try it on the C, just in case i liked it better. I never removed it since!
You just need a bit of patience, since it's a work of 15 minutes for someone who knows what he's doing and perhaps half an hour if it's your first time and you want to go slow and make a perfect job. It requires some disassembly, so the risk is up to you, but still, it's hard to mess up.
0 Useful note before start: set F stop to 22 and shutter (uncocked) to B, it makes things easier, at least it did to me. Shutter release in locked position.
1 Take a wooden toothpick and use it to remove the front leather. DO NOT use anything made of metal like tweezers to go beneath the leather, or you'll mar the raised edges of the front fascia/panel.
2 With the toothpick (or two, so you can use both slots) unscrew the chrome rings around the shutter release and PC flash. Both plastic locks will come off, on the flash side remove the metal clip underneath that acts as a spring. Just pull it off down/right.
3 Remove with a correct screwdriver the 6 (brass?) screws under the leather, clean them if some green gunk has formed: self timer lever and M/X switch lever both have a pair of screws holding them, one above the lever, one below. DO NOT touch them if not necessary.
4 Now you can safely remove the front panel/fascia. Do it gently and take note if there are any brass washers on the back of the panel you just removed (sometimes the grease? 'glues' them to it) or (more often) on the lens board. They should be around the holes for the screws you just removed. Their function in merely aesthetic, keeping the front (not the lenses) parallel to the body, nevertheless leave them where they are if you can.
5 Voilà, you can now access the shutter, unscrew the front taking lens cell with just your fingers, but most importantly, fine tune the viewing lens to match the other. To do this you must be sure that infinity focus on the taking lens is reached correctly.
5.1 Once at infinity, you need to loosen the set screw/s that fix in place the viewing lens. On the 2.8C, there are three screws around the lens, one just above it under the flash cable (lift it gently), one at 9 o'clock and one at 5.
LOOSEN JUST ENOUGH (half a turn?) but don't unscrew them completely, it's not needed.
On other models (like Rolleicords) there is a single set screw above the lens but perpendicular to the thread.
5.2 Now simply rotate the lens until the image on the screen is sharp at infinity, use a strong magnifier to be sure you're nailing it. Techs use collimators, but not everyone has one handy and our eyes can be quite good too.
6 Done, now follow these steps backwards and you're set.
The only thing I'd be concerned is regluing the leather, it might be the right chance to refresh your camera by ordering a new kit from the well known sources.
I hope this post is not too much OT and useful to anyone who wants to replace the screen on his flex, if you have questions just drop me a PM.
I bought a lightly scratched mamiya screen off ebay for real cheap and thought I might try it on the C, just in case i liked it better. I never removed it since!