Tutorial: advanced PS workflow for B&W "flat" scans

tsiklonaut

tsiklonaut

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Since I've been asked for this for too much and I've always replied it's a too long story to write everyone about, but I still keep getting those e-mails or PMs that the threshold is reached so I've finally put it down with a little bit more detail and insight, trying to keep it short as possible yet hopefully not leave the reader clueless.

It's for those who already know a little about image editing and for those who want to invert and edit their B&W film scans with the most control over the image as possible.

Here's the workflow:

Working with B&W linear scans (4nalog)

I may do the color negative (C41) tutorial someday too.

Hope this helps some who've been asking for this kind of detailed workflow,
Margus
 
Thank you very much for the work you have put into this. What a gift! I've learned to use Silverfast to generate their "64 bit HDRi" scans, plus using multi exposure when scanning, then processing the resulting RAW scans in Silverfast Studio, followed by PS. That method has improved my results dramatically, in very similar ways to yours, if might hazard a guess, but your approach offers even more in terms of customization of processing to the actual image at hand.
Again, thank you for giving of your time so generously.
 
You are the Margus who had the half black previews due to the Gretag - Macbeth monitor profiles some years ago? I am the Greg that suggested the fix.

I've suggested this to others over the years but more often than not most don't believe or try it...thinking the profiles couldn't possibly be the cause of their 'broken' scanners - be they ccd or drum.

I've found over the years that any problems to do with scanners are 99% a software, incompatability or scsi card...even grinding, crunching noises. Scanners that appear dead miraculously spring into life once these issues are sorted out.
 
Yep Greg,

That's me and still running that ancient SCSI stuff. :)

Hopefully you guys find the tutorial useful and can adapt it into your scanning technique.

Cheers,
Margus
 
Yes, Margus. I'm looking forward to it. I've always admired your photographs and your scanning technique.
Thanks for sharing.
 
Total thanks, I do many of the steps you do but the two curves I haven't done and will try. I also scan in grayscale so I'll switch that also. I hope I catch your C-41 tutorial too. I have been using your 'headroom' concept for many years (I do the shadows and highlights) and find it one of the most help 'taste' controls.
 
charjohncarter said:
I have been using your 'headroom' concept for many years (I do the shadows and highlights) and find it one of the most help 'taste' controls.
Click to expand...

Yep, my thoughts exacly - a lot of people think if they have "headroom" in their histogram (or an "empty space" as they say) during editing there's something wrong in their picture or editing method, which isn't the case as we know, it actually gives the ability to control without clipping or a loss of information.
 
tsiklonaut said:
Yep, my thoughts exacly - a lot of people think if they have "headroom" in their histogram (or an "empty space" as they say) during editing there's something wrong in their picture or editing method, which isn't the case as we know, it actually gives the ability to control without clipping or a loss of information.
Click to expand...

I've been going over your blog, I left a comment on SFX (I think, I'm not good with computers). Your B&W scanning post is great as I've said: I've read it 3 times. What worries me is I get something out of it each time I read; so I don't know when I'll truly finish. The color scanning is something I hadn't really thought about but you explain it well. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the interesting write-up Margus. Have you done a comparison of the same image when scanned b&w and as colour? Would be interesting to see the difference.
 
Hi Philip,

Haven't done any direct A/B-ing, but this method here is purely derived from the fact that something "lacked" when I scanned and worked in grayscale in my previous years when I mostly used grayscale space.

Scanning and editing in RGB really brought me that needed edge, both on editing control and on the final looks of the image.

With this method you could actually also simulate a grayscale (or Green channel B&W) scanning and editing by adding a B&W channel mixer layer as the very first layer in this tutorial - strip down all channels except leave green fader up. (Or alternatively use just the Green channel from RGB). Then flatten image into a Grayscale space and start working with it as it was originally a grayscale scan. In both ways, grayscaling (flattening) full RGB scan or just G channel, you'll see how much less control you'll have versus editing it in full color.

Regards,
Margus
 
Even with a hopelessly outdated scanner that does not really do 35 mm very well (Canon Canoscan 8600) I did see a marked difference for the better. Thanks! :)
 
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