Two Agfa Isolette III's- Worthwhile to Fix??

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Shelley-Ann

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Hey, guys.

I purchased two Isolette III's as part of a lot of 8 folders. Both of them have issues, and I'm wondering if you guys think it is worthwhile to get one or both fixed.

Here are the deets:

1. Agfa Isolette III, Apotar Lens (85mm f4.5) Prontor S shutter. Rangefinder knob moves, and seems to be in alignment. Bellows looks ok.
Issues:

a) Frozen focus ring
b) Shutter is stuck (when I depress the shutter, nothing happens- it looks as though the shutter release button isn't connected to the shutter).

2. Agfa Isolette III, Apotar lens (85mm f4.5) Prontor SV Shutter. Bellows looks ok.
Issues:
a)Rangfinder stuck
b) Frozen focus ring.
c) shutter is stuck (see above).

Just so you know, the cost was relatively cheap (worked out to $15 US each).

Thanks.
 
Those are nice because of the RF. I bought a II and had to have a CLA on it to get it going. Looking back I wish I had waited for a III and done a CLA on it. If you decide to sell let me know.
 
Shelley-Ann said:
Hey, guys.

I purchased two Isolette III's as part of a lot of 8 folders. Both of them have issues, and I'm wondering if you guys think it is worthwhile to get one or both fixed.


Thanks.
Click to expand...

its really a question just for you.

whether you want to use one, whether you already have a folder that you use instead of these, or whether you are asking from a $ value point of view.

from a $ value if you have to pay someone to renovate the camera it may work out $80-$110 + cost of bellows (about $50 for new leather bellows, non leather cheaper) that are often needed on these (you have to check them in dark room with torch), if you can do it yourself you save that money

whether its worthwhile is something relevant to you, many people find it is very worthwhile, even if they have to pay someone..the Isolettes give good results and even at say $150 its a cheap way to use medium format and a pocketable medium format is incredible and fun to use.

if you are thinking from a resale point of view then if you have to pay someone to fix you may be lucky to recover your money but not guaranteed, in most cases i would expect a bit less...the Isolettes with solinar would be sure to recover the money (even much higher) but the apotar sales seem to go up and down in price.. i guess the presentation helps, also demand varies

Shelly-Ann, what other folders did you get in the bundle :)



cheers
 
It's hopeless -- a comple waste of time and money. Obviously the only thing to do is to pack them into a box and send them to me. Never mind what I will do to them, just send them here.

Just kidding. Yes, they are worth fixing. Once the issues (very common ones, related to Agfa's poor choice of bellows material and lubricants) are fixed, Isolettes are first-class shooters. Even with the Apotar they are pretty good, although a Solinar would have been better.
 
My repairer freed up the stuck focussing thread on my Isolette with Solinar: the Solinars seem to be more prone to this. This is what he did:

One drop of WD40 into the thread every day, to slowly dissolve the dried soap-based grease.

Three months later, it's freed, ready for removal, cleaning and re-grease. Nothing to it! :cool:
 
Shelley-Ann said:
Hey, guys.

I purchased two Isolette III's as part of a lot of 8 folders. Both of them have issues, and I'm wondering if you guys think it is worthwhile to get one or both fixed.

Here are the deets:

1. Agfa Isolette III, Apotar Lens (85mm f4.5) Prontor S shutter. Rangefinder knob moves, and seems to be in alignment. Bellows looks ok.
Issues:

a) Frozen focus ring
b) Shutter is stuck (when I depress the shutter, nothing happens- it looks as though the shutter release button isn't connected to the shutter).

2. Agfa Isolette III, Apotar lens (85mm f4.5) Prontor SV Shutter. Bellows looks ok.
Issues:
a)Rangfinder stuck
b) Frozen focus ring.
c) shutter is stuck (see above).

Just so you know, the cost was relatively cheap (worked out to $15 US each).

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Looks like all issues are covered here.

Cheers,
Uwe
 
Thanks, guys.. I'm going to get the first one fixed, see how that works, then perhaps get the second one sorted out.

Andrew: the others are an Ansco Viking, two Billys (Compur, I think), two PD 16's (useless) and another one that I don't really remember. The Ansco Viking's Bellows are in poor shape, but I can probably sort it out on my own (it's an Agnar lens, so I'm not going to spend crazy money sorting it out). At least it works.
 
Shelley-Ann said:
Thanks, guys.. I'm going to get the first one fixed, see how that works, then perhaps get the second one sorted out.

Andrew: the others are an Ansco Viking, two Billys (Compur, I think), two PD 16's (useless) and another one that I don't really remember. The Ansco Viking's Bellows are in poor shape, but I can probably sort it out on my own (it's an Agnar lens, so I'm not going to spend crazy money sorting it out). At least it works.
Click to expand...

About the PD-16s: It is pretty easy to convert them to 120 film with some epoxy putty and some brass tubing. You take a 120 spool, cover it with a thin coat of floor wax, build up a collar around one end with masking tape, and fill it with epoxy putty, to about the depth of a nickle coin. Make sure some of it goes into the slots on the end of the spool (the slot should also be waxed). You press a waxed screwdriver into the putty to make a slot for the winding lug and let it set up. Do this four times and you have 4 adapters for 120 spools. Just put one on each end of your takeup and supply spools.

Next, you're going to need some narrower film rails, to hold your film flat. You get some square cross-section 1/8 inch brass tubing, from a hobby shop. Epoxy that to the inside of the film frame, next to the film rails. Done.

Of course if you bought the thing for the neat art deco designs on the sides, they also made a PB-20. You can get one of those and just take out the film cradles, so 120 will fit. They have the same design on the sides.
 
I can assure you that the Apotar 85/4.5 is a very good performer. It is one of my favourite lenses. If you are very critical, it may not be as sharp as Tessar design lenses such as the Solinar. But it does produce fine shadow details. Also your shutters Pronto S and SV would be sufficient for general usages. 300 - 1 seconds +B have been sufficient for the past 20 odd years.

But before you do anything, you MUST make sure the bellows are OK. You will need a very powerful torch (flashlight) to help you with this. If the bellows are leaking, even only pinhole leaks, you must think twice before doing anything.
 
Hey, guys.

Well, I did a DIY job on one of the Isolettes (the one where the rangefinder was stuck). It now moves, but I can't see any difference in the window. The rest of it seemed fine - the focussing ring wasn't so bad after all.
I decided to take it out for a spin on my lunch break (zone focusing, of course).

This is the only pic that turned out:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=107262

It seems that, actually, it has serious light leaks in the bellows. Gotta get a new flashlight.

Thanks for the tip on the PD-16th, FP. I'll try them out.
 
Shelley-Ann said:
Hey, guys.

Well, I did a DIY job on one of the Isolettes (the one where the rangefinder was stuck). It now moves, but I can't see any difference in the window. The rest of it seemed fine - the focussing ring wasn't so bad after all.
I decided to take it out for a spin on my lunch break (zone focusing, of course).

This is the only pic that turned out:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=107262

It seems that, actually, it has serious light leaks in the bellows. Gotta get a new flashlight.

Thanks for the tip on the PD-16th, FP. I'll try them out.
Click to expand...

I really like Acros in my III w/Apotar...

2851511153_601001326a_o.jpg
 
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